Where I Been At?
#21
Good call, when the new one goes in I'm going to take a more serious look at my warmup enrichment maps, it wouldn't run 100% until it was fully warmed up. I had assumed it was because I had enrichment too high (fuel consumption while warming up was ridiculous) but if it was lean, that might starve lubrication a bit and in the long run would advance seal wear.
#22
Originally Posted by Shane.Trammell' date='Jan 19 2005, 01:54 PM
More like
CAR SWAP
I'm done with daily driving a car that uses engine management and the only thing stock under the hood is the ports on the block of the motor.
Fun weekend toy to tinker with, NOT a daily driver
#23
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' date='Jan 19 2005, 01:57 PM
Just to clarify, it would run just fine and drive just fine, but after it was warmed up it would run through the gears alot better
It was NOT as weak as it is now on one rotor while cold
#24
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' date='Jan 19 2005, 01:57 PM
Good call, when the new one goes in I'm going to take a more serious look at my warmup enrichment maps, it wouldn't run 100% until it was fully warmed up. I had assumed it was because I had enrichment too high (fuel consumption while warming up was ridiculous) but if it was lean, that might starve lubrication a bit and in the long run would advance seal wear.
You wont blow a n/a from the fuel maps being off(or ignition for that matter). I could give you plenty of examples of me not blowing my motor.
Want to know what I think it is? Your fuel map was tuned overly rich to compensate for you running map based accel enrichment vs TPS. Old n/a motors that usually lose compression are the result of stuck seals from carbon build-up as opposed to actually breaking the seals. Running rich makes it worse. Old engines are more likely to suffer from stuck seals because as the seal wears, the spring loses some of tension, as well as the seals getting shorter, so there is less force on the seal.
#28
Originally Posted by mazdaspeed7' date='Jan 19 2005, 06:29 PM
You wont blow a n/a from the fuel maps being off(or ignition for that matter). I could give you plenty of examples of me not blowing my motor.
Want to know what I think it is? Your fuel map was tuned overly rich to compensate for you running map based accel enrichment vs TPS. Old n/a motors that usually lose compression are the result of stuck seals from carbon build-up as opposed to actually breaking the seals. Running rich makes it worse. Old engines are more likely to suffer from stuck seals because as the seal wears, the spring loses some of tension, as well as the seals getting shorter, so there is less force on the seal.
Want to know what I think it is? Your fuel map was tuned overly rich to compensate for you running map based accel enrichment vs TPS. Old n/a motors that usually lose compression are the result of stuck seals from carbon build-up as opposed to actually breaking the seals. Running rich makes it worse. Old engines are more likely to suffer from stuck seals because as the seal wears, the spring loses some of tension, as well as the seals getting shorter, so there is less force on the seal.
Okay well I'm back in business now, internet on my computer and new (used) engine in my RX7
Adam since I put that engine in (the first one) I have been using TPS accel enrichment, not map based, I set up that full range on the TB I believe I told you about
BUT
The motor I pulled out, all 3 apex seals had big chips missing, all three on the rear rotor.
I hadn't adjusted the fuel maps at all for this new motor (since it's the same setup entirely except for flywheel weight)
My engine vibration issue has disappeared with this motor, BUT the car would barely run, I did a quick tune with a friend and a laptop, enrichened the map and it ran alot better, but I didn't have time to set up all areas of the map, but I enrichened it quite a bit. Idle EGO voltage about .88, WOT it falls off to about .82 at 7k (I need to tune the map, not just increase pulsewidths all over the board, I just didn't have time).
And I still have the warmup issue which I have decided is NOT coolant temp related, it will do it at 182-184 F, then while still at that temperature, something will change and it will start running fine, temperature stays at 182-184 F.
Unless my EGO sensor is playing tricks on me, the car runs very very lean and then suddenly runs fine and enrichens itself. I could barely drive up the hill while it was warming up. I was suspicious of ignition cycles before coming out of the startup enrichment loop, but for the amount of time it's doing this (and the fact that I'm being told it's lean, not rich) that shouldn't be the case. But it is a narrow band EGO sensor so it might be overly rich and throwing off the sensor voltage, right?
But I appreciate any of your input, and I need advice! I am worried about running lean because these two motors run on premix now, if it was lubrication related causing seal failure, I feel safer enrichening. But if you mention enrichment might actually cause the failure.... Hmmm!!
I need to talk to you on AIM which I will do ASAP now that I have internet again.
I have some other issues I won't go into much detail about with in this thread, it's just Gen D after all, lol.
But my car is really pissing me off I don't want to use it as a DD anymore.
#30
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='Jan 21 2005, 06:00 PM
Awesome I hope you like it lol