I know a couple of the top things that kills rotary engines are idiots and heat, I can't do much about the idiots but I have a couple of things that I found that maybe can control the heat issue.



All motor rotaries are just as reliable as any engine, heat is what kills turbo rotaries, right, hence one of the reasone the new rx-8 is n/a.



Well there is a product out the called npg coolant. This coolant is tough enough possibly handle the excessive heat of turbo rotaries, and get this it's waterless.



This is not new gimick, my dad has been using this stuff in his yenko for year, and he has NEVER changed the coolant since he put it in over 10 years ago.



This stuff is suppose to last the lifetime of the vehicle, I know it sound too good to be true, but maybe it might be worth taking a look at.



I do not own an rx-7, I actually own an MKIV Supra TT, I use npg in my supra and I luv the stuff, npg combined with hpc hipercoat extemem on my turbine houseing, ex. manifold, and downpipe really control heat.



I live in barstow and it get to like 120 out there so I have invested in to a lot of cooling for my supra.



check them out:



http://www.hpcoatings.com/

http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html



food for thought

 

welcome to old news....I run it/ but some people just can't afford the $$$ to swap over

 

You may be right, but I don't think that someone who is putting a 5000 aftermarket turbo kit on their car for the hell of it really has thaaat much problems with money.



NPG is a worthy investment that could really end a lot of rotary overheating problems, you use it, you know how good it is. It's a worth while investment, it cheaper than a new 13b, IMO.



How much did it cost you to convert to npg+?

 

I spent ~ 300 to convert. That includes the cost of the new hoses, waterpump and a radiator flush. I use the purge with Sierra Method/Fill with a gallon of NPG/ drain and refill method.



A few things to consider:

1. NPG+ is non conductive: This means the electric sensors for Coolant temp will NOT read the same as when they are operating in Ethylene Glycol (which is conductive). What is the magnitude of the difference? I don't have any firm numbers.



2. Your Coolant Temps will run hotter!. On a NE NA engine/Stock Radiator/Stock Fan I run 200º to 210º cruising at 70 MPH in 95º amb. temps. This corrolates to 1/2 on the stock Mazda Gage.



3. You need to keep extra NPG+ around in case of coolant system trouble, you just don't pop into PEP Boys to pick up a gallon.