Long Run Costs
05-06-2004, 11:28 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,784
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='May 6 2004, 06:02 PM
good points jim, whats the use of power if you cant drive it
maybe if your into bragging rights, but in the real world you
want a car you can drive
maybe if your into bragging rights, but in the real world you
want a car you can drive
05-07-2004, 02:24 AM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
Posts: 925
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' date='May 6 2004, 08:24 PM
Let us know the results Ted.
I've always been curious of a well put together N/A 20B dyno. You have the reputation as a competent builder.
I've always been curious of a well put together N/A 20B dyno. You have the reputation as a competent builder.
The engine is bone stock internally.
We're running an unequal length custom welded header, so it's not optimal.
We're lucky to break 200hp.
I estimate 230-250 right now.
I'd be happy if we break 250 at the end of the day.
If it comes close to 300, I'm buying all the drinks!
-Ted
05-08-2004, 09:33 AM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
Posts: 925
Short version, the engine made 232hp at the wheels on a DynoJet.
We were fighting ignition break-up above 7kRPM all day, and only had a few clean runs.
We found out, by accident, that the current air filter was too restrictive! After removing the air filter cause the clamp broke, we decided the run the without it - the power dropped. Checked the AFR's, and it went up at least almost half a point - doh, air filter was too small. It was some cheapie K&N cone rip-off, but it was of decent size - 3" ID mount, 6" - 7" base, 5" top, center inverted cone filter surface area (like the old R.S.Akimoto funnel-ram).
Adjusting the fuel and ignition maps did not affect power delivery that much - our street tuning was very close.
If the high RPM miss was fixed with a big filter, I would guess it would've been +10hp easy, maybe up to 250hp...
Oh well, not bad considering it's a bone stock motor with no turbos...
-Ted
We were fighting ignition break-up above 7kRPM all day, and only had a few clean runs.
We found out, by accident, that the current air filter was too restrictive! After removing the air filter cause the clamp broke, we decided the run the without it - the power dropped. Checked the AFR's, and it went up at least almost half a point - doh, air filter was too small. It was some cheapie K&N cone rip-off, but it was of decent size - 3" ID mount, 6" - 7" base, 5" top, center inverted cone filter surface area (like the old R.S.Akimoto funnel-ram).
Adjusting the fuel and ignition maps did not affect power delivery that much - our street tuning was very close.
If the high RPM miss was fixed with a big filter, I would guess it would've been +10hp easy, maybe up to 250hp...
Oh well, not bad considering it's a bone stock motor with no turbos...
-Ted
05-08-2004, 09:43 AM
#37
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,928
imho..
upgrade your driving ability prior to upgradin your ride...
run a 200whp under aggressive track condition and see how much you can withstand..
then progress from there..
that is of course your intentions are road course..
otherwise.. its a different ball game with straights..
upgrade your driving ability prior to upgradin your ride...
run a 200whp under aggressive track condition and see how much you can withstand..
then progress from there..
that is of course your intentions are road course..
otherwise.. its a different ball game with straights..
05-08-2004, 11:32 AM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by RETed' date='May 8 2004, 06:33 AM
Short version, the engine made 232hp at the wheels on a DynoJet.
We were fighting ignition break-up above 7kRPM all day, and only had a few clean runs.
We found out, by accident, that the current air filter was too restrictive! After removing the air filter cause the clamp broke, we decided the run the without it - the power dropped. Checked the AFR's, and it went up at least almost half a point - doh, air filter was too small. It was some cheapie K&N cone rip-off, but it was of decent size - 3" ID mount, 6" - 7" base, 5" top, center inverted cone filter surface area (like the old R.S.Akimoto funnel-ram).
Adjusting the fuel and ignition maps did not affect power delivery that much - our street tuning was very close.
If the high RPM miss was fixed with a big filter, I would guess it would've been +10hp easy, maybe up to 250hp...
Oh well, not bad considering it's a bone stock motor with no turbos...
-Ted
We were fighting ignition break-up above 7kRPM all day, and only had a few clean runs.
We found out, by accident, that the current air filter was too restrictive! After removing the air filter cause the clamp broke, we decided the run the without it - the power dropped. Checked the AFR's, and it went up at least almost half a point - doh, air filter was too small. It was some cheapie K&N cone rip-off, but it was of decent size - 3" ID mount, 6" - 7" base, 5" top, center inverted cone filter surface area (like the old R.S.Akimoto funnel-ram).
Adjusting the fuel and ignition maps did not affect power delivery that much - our street tuning was very close.
If the high RPM miss was fixed with a big filter, I would guess it would've been +10hp easy, maybe up to 250hp...
Oh well, not bad considering it's a bone stock motor with no turbos...
-Ted
i think you need to upgrade to 6 coils, when you have the dual posts the spark is weak!
