1gendreemer

Whoops, I scrolled right past what z-beater wrote and missed some important stuff for comment...



1. You had me laughing at "sometimes I find myself just sitting in the car because I miss it"... I've spent countless hours doing the same, and to do it I have to take my seats out of the plastic, put them in the car, and THEN sit in it... The motor has been out of the SE for about a year now, interior packed away for about as long, and the only way she rolls is on the dollies under each wheel! I had vowed that the motor wasn't going back into the car unless it was supercharged, regardless of how long it took me to round up the cash to do it. The FD parts are kindof falling into my lap now though - my buddy wasn't expecting to make money selling his FD, so I've switched gears on my own project and, believe it or not, have probably shortened my timeline for completion!



2. Your parts list matches with what I was thinking so far, but I have the benefit of getting everything at no cost (except if I end up going stand alone, then I'll probably have to spend about $900). I'm really hoping to come out of this with minimal expense. I figure with the rebuild kit, fabbing, and possible stand alone, $3000 is about max I'm willing to put into it. (I can see you all shaking your heads in disbelief that this can be done.) Regardless of whether my figuring is correct, If it gets too costly I'm going to revert back to the SC plan and my buddy and I will be selling the FD stuff. No worries.



I'll try to post some pics later this week to illustrate the project. Thanks again for all everyone's interest!

z-beater

There are only 2 injector bungs in the SE block. However these bungs appear to be in the same location as the FD block. I would not worry about that too much.



3k is possible but very unlikely. Like I said before there are so many small things that I did not account for. my EMS cost me over 1300. Granted this is a microtech. If you want to save money go megaqsquirt. But most likely you will be tuning by yourself because tuners do not like to mess with it.



look at a 5k minimum. That is my suggestion.



If you go single that will add another 2-3k on the build. Not to mention your FMIC, blah blah blah.



If you don't want more than 350 to the wheels gor with a non-sequential twin setup. It will reduce the amount of work that you have to do and chould cut the cost nearly in half. Single setups are expensive.



Z

1gendreemer

Yeah for the sake of reliability and given the extra compression I'll be working with, I'm definitely not looking to put down any more than 250 HP right now - so the twins non-seq is the way to go. Anywhere near that number and I'm pretty sure I'm going to have problems keeping rubber on the rears and justifying wasting gas on civics at stoplights... Truthfully, I don't care what it puts down so long as it's noticeably quicker than my NA setup. I'm more concerned with it working at all and saying I did it...



Thanks for the confirmation about the bungs for the injectors. I had looked at my GSL-SE irons and at the FD manual I have and thought it looked the same, but wasn't sure it'd work. It looks like the FD fuel rail will go right on though.

z-beater

I cannot comment if they are a direct drop in but I am pretty sure that they are.



Why not just snag the FD engine though and do the entire swap? If you have it available to you why not?



Z

1gendreemer

Well, I'm pretty sure that the FD irons are going to be warped. It overheated several times. I know that my GSL-SE motor never overheated and should be good to go...at least as much as you can know without cracking it open yet. Hopefully there's no flaking or anything else wrong.

Using the FD motor is certainly still an option though if it turns out to be impossible to do any other way. I haven't really looked into what it would take to make it fit. If the irons are ok and it's as simple as swapping front pieces, then it could look even better. I'm really scared to see what we find when we open that thing up though...