ignition map
09-15-2007, 05:02 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Germany
Posts: 70
hey there, i have a few maps for my PFC done with friends and on my own, for example i will put my modded BASE map for the FC3S.
It is a Power FC (AP.Engineering) Ignition Map, but its simple to understand, so that microtech and all the other standalone guys and even people who dont have a standalone could say somthing about it.
I start the thread, because i want to learn how to set up the right timing, and what should be the differences in timing between a stock-port and ported engine.
i am running a wild streetported engine, with ported intake-system. so i want to know, if my map should go a bit more advanced or retarded, and WHY it should be more advanced or retarded.
ok here is the Map i am using right now.
All positive numbers are degrees BTDC, and negatives are ATDC. First map is leading, second map is trailing.
Split is 8° during whole vacuum, and from n01-n05/p01-p20.
10° from p11-p17, and 12-15° from p17-p20
this map is a bit retarded compared to a stock FD3S Map. Knock levels are reading low at WOT, something between 10-13.
It is a Power FC (AP.Engineering) Ignition Map, but its simple to understand, so that microtech and all the other standalone guys and even people who dont have a standalone could say somthing about it.
I start the thread, because i want to learn how to set up the right timing, and what should be the differences in timing between a stock-port and ported engine.
i am running a wild streetported engine, with ported intake-system. so i want to know, if my map should go a bit more advanced or retarded, and WHY it should be more advanced or retarded.
ok here is the Map i am using right now.
All positive numbers are degrees BTDC, and negatives are ATDC. First map is leading, second map is trailing.
Split is 8° during whole vacuum, and from n01-n05/p01-p20.
10° from p11-p17, and 12-15° from p17-p20
this map is a bit retarded compared to a stock FD3S Map. Knock levels are reading low at WOT, something between 10-13.
09-16-2007, 04:06 PM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Memphis, Japan
Posts: 427
Those numbers look safe. I thihk you could advance the timing 2-3 degrees in most boost areas and still be safe and pick up some power.
Its hard to say without knowing how big your 'Wild Streetport' is. How mand mm did you go up and out? Also is the exhaust ported at all? That makes a difference in the timing. I would also be helpful to know what turbine etc is on the car. Just porting a motor and running a stock turbine or a real small one you can get away with some bad timing.
Also I think you can raise the timing after 5600rpm and get some gains as well as stabilize your EGT's
Finally I dont really agree with the split strategy but that is a whole conversation within itself which I dont want to go into.
The map looks solid but the only real way to get results is on the dyno.
Its hard to say without knowing how big your 'Wild Streetport' is. How mand mm did you go up and out? Also is the exhaust ported at all? That makes a difference in the timing. I would also be helpful to know what turbine etc is on the car. Just porting a motor and running a stock turbine or a real small one you can get away with some bad timing.
Also I think you can raise the timing after 5600rpm and get some gains as well as stabilize your EGT's
Finally I dont really agree with the split strategy but that is a whole conversation within itself which I dont want to go into.
The map looks solid but the only real way to get results is on the dyno.
09-16-2007, 04:16 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Germany
Posts: 70
hey, thank you.
i dont really exactly know how much it was ported on the upside, but very little on the bottom, and no way up at exhaust port, just be safe getting threw emissions. the exhaust ports were ported at the bottom and the sides a little. for now i am using a stock turbo, want to change if i get the money.
seems you have the same car like i have huh?
grey 1991
i dont really exactly know how much it was ported on the upside, but very little on the bottom, and no way up at exhaust port, just be safe getting threw emissions. the exhaust ports were ported at the bottom and the sides a little. for now i am using a stock turbo, want to change if i get the money.
seems you have the same car like i have huh?
09-20-2007, 10:15 AM
#4
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
i agree those values in there are pretty tame. most people are running 12-15 btdc L at 1 bar.
theory: in theory the better the VE of the engine, the less timing you need. more air and fuel packed into the same place, will burn faster.
theory: in theory the better the VE of the engine, the less timing you need. more air and fuel packed into the same place, will burn faster.
10-09-2007, 01:00 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Germany
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i had tried out a 2-3 degree more advanced ignition, and under WOT there was more Knock on the display than before. So i sticked with my Base ignition. The engine was producing more power with 2-3 degree more, but i want it to be safe, it has just get a rebuild.
10-09-2007, 02:01 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Germany
Posts: 70
no problem, i am learning.
hmm.. others stay good with more advanced timing. how is it, the bigger the porting, the less timing i need? because more air is flowing into the chamber right? you told me before.
i have hear from some guys, that i have a not that big porting, and they are running 2-3 degree more advanced than me.. but if i get knock at this settings, it cant be my porting is that "small" (AFR is safe and good for sure, is more rich than lean)
i wasnt on the dyno yet, but from my sensing, the car was right after the rebuild "faster" than my previous FC with racing-beat FULL at 10-11psi. Now i had stock boost, and just the porting seemd making the same power as my previous car with 11psi of boost.
Can you detect any knock by listening? i cant figure it out, i am just looking at the Power FC data of knock..
hmm.. others stay good with more advanced timing. how is it, the bigger the porting, the less timing i need? because more air is flowing into the chamber right? you told me before.
i have hear from some guys, that i have a not that big porting, and they are running 2-3 degree more advanced than me.. but if i get knock at this settings, it cant be my porting is that "small" (AFR is safe and good for sure, is more rich than lean)
i wasnt on the dyno yet, but from my sensing, the car was right after the rebuild "faster" than my previous FC with racing-beat FULL at 10-11psi. Now i had stock boost, and just the porting seemd making the same power as my previous car with 11psi of boost.
Can you detect any knock by listening? i cant figure it out, i am just looking at the Power FC data of knock..
11-06-2007, 11:30 PM
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 94
You really need to get on a dyno and play with your timing there. Your ports really make a difference. Here's an example, when I run 18deg advance I make over 600HP. I drop it to 15 and I lose 20HP instantly. Now my friend who has the same setup runs 15 deg advance and makes over 600 HP, he goes up to 18deg and does not make any more power.
Also monitor your EGTs when making timing changes.
Anthony
Also monitor your EGTs when making timing changes.
Anthony
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