Judge Ito

Just to make a note here. I don't want to give away to much advise and make people tune there engine to 20 degrees of leading ignition timing but read this. I agree 20 degrees is a bit extreme. I had the car down to 14 degrees for leading. But I worked on another car making 700rwhp on a FD engine and ignition timing was 20 for leading and 5 for trailing. this is a 15 degree split. If some people are poping engines at 20 degrees of total timing advance for the leading plugs, I would say they need to first find TOP DEAD CENTER on there engine then adjust timing to that. I have seen Mazda come up with so many different factory timing marks through out the years. In most of the timing marks I have never seen a 0 degree mark that you could use as starting point. On every single race engine I've had to find my ZERO and adjust timing to my new TDC. Vosko's engine has also been zero degreed for precise timing. My point here is, maybe some people think they are running 20 degrees before top dead center,when they might be running 25,30, or a bit higher timing then that because they don't now where top dead center is.

I guess we could thank piston heads for a degree wheel.

Judge Ito

A mike thanks for the compliment. I appreciate it. When I come to the forum and spend time in the engine rebuilding and porting section is because not only I believe in my work but I have seen great results with my specs and clearances and sharing that info. with fellow rotary engine enthusiats, gives me inner peace. Like I posted one time. The specs that I use are not some info. that I read on any websites or books, this are specs that are used and proven by me through out the years. I'm glad I could help this forum a little bit.

94touring

What I would do is put in at least heat range 9 plugs, get whatever boost problem fixed, then go back to the dyno and play with the timing untill you smooth out the power curves. Running 20 degrees at 15psi is fine in certain rpms ranges. Raising the timing after where the hp and torque cross will help raise the torque curve. Your torque continues to rise, signs of good porting and the timing being higher than most other setups you would typically see with a flat timing curve of say 15 degrees. You may find lowering the timing in the area where you had the most "jagged power" will yeild no power loss, since this is where the hp/toque crosses. Then taper the timing back up to 20 as long as what appears to be breakup goes away.



If i'm not mistaken doesn't the pfc have fairly high timing in the higher rpms ranges.....20 perhaps?

Judge Ito

Just saw the video. Looks like you guys had fun. Rx7 sounds pretty nice for being muffled. Lets see carlos runs

1Revvin7

Still having boost controller problems. I thought you got that fixed, what bc are you using anyhow? Im going to stay away from it.......

wptrx7

hey guys i mentioned more power at 15lbs simply because i was under the impression that if you raise the boost up 5lbs it should be a significant amount of power gained. i guess i am wrong or there are other factors that play a big part in this. and you all are right those are some great numbers. and a personal question to you vosko, do you feel that you need more power than this? (this helps out for those people wanting 500+ hp on a street car and not knowing what thy are getting themselves into)



luigi

works2r

we all need more power

vosko

well it was partially ignition breakup and partially boost controller over correcting the wastegate control. i will retune the car soon with 10.5 race plugs and see what happens. i have to take care of my differential also.....

turborotor

Bj forgot to take a video of me

9BASE3

Nah... Buy a civic.