fritzfry

I confirmed no compression in rear.....low, inconsistent compression in front (bouncing anywhere from 30 to 90)....maybe this explains why when i was unflooding my car gas was spitting out of the front plug holes but barely dripped out of the rear holes.



does turning the motor manually with a socket adversely affect the crankshaft sensor in any way?



i've been raising and lowering my car often and even though it hasn't started in a month i noticed yesterday that there's a new small fuel leak from under the turbo location...i know turbos get oil leaks but this seems more like gas than oil(??)...is there anything on that side that could be the source of a small fuel leak?



okay, i want 2004 to be a good year so any suggestions on courses of action? let's rule out me rebuilding it myself 'cause i thought about it and my car would probably be down for the whole year,lol. what do most do in this situation...buy a reman. mazda engine and have it shipped to a local shop or drop it in yourself?



thanks to everybody for their answers/comments over the last month concerning plugs, wires, starters, compression, and blown motors.



sighhh,



fritz

9BASE3

Fuel dillusion in the oil could be why you see gas by the turbos... If your oil is thinned out enough by gas, it'll leak fairly easy..

fritzfry

makes sense

twinturborx7pete

sorry to hear that fritz, maybe you should organize something with the MRCCFL and get a "engine pull party" together or something? I'm sure people would attend.. would be fun and get things done rather quickly.



If you prepurchase a reman or something, it could all theoritically be done in one day or a weekend.

Baldy

*COUGH*at my house*COUGH*

tampaFD

i'd help where are you at in fl? the same thing is going to be done here for a member in march

fritzfry

hey now, you guys are beginning to motivate me..STOP IT!!! lol, i still need to bottom out from the results of my compression test.



speaking of which, i put some MMO in the plug holes but still my car hasn't actually started in a month & a half (but i fully charged the battery)...i think i read that unless the car was at normal operating temps about 15 minutes prior, your compression readings could be off by 20%. Not that doing the gauge-needle-bounce is extremely accurate anyways. i figured even with my car's situation, a non-moving needle is at the very least indicative of compression waaaay below spec.



confirm?





i'm in tallahassee...party at either Patrick's (Baldy) house or my new house in March, haha



fritz