3rd Generation Specific Talk about 3rd gen RX-7's here.

Water in the exhaust port

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Old 06-01-2009, 10:18 AM
  #21  
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BTW.....the engine stand adapter is kind of pricey (IIRC mine was ~ $80 from Adkins) but IMO worth it. Makes EVERYTHING much easier, especially during critical reassembly. My .02.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:32 AM
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My drivers side mount is torn at the top. Looks like yours is torn from the base. Most people from what I understand say that the bad one is usually on the turbo side. My turbos have been rebuilt at some point so the mount may have been changed at that time. That is about all I can come up with for a reason why mine isn`t all to pieces. I was surprised to see the drivers side about to come apart when I got to looking at it.



I wouldn`t mind using an engine stand here. From where the motor is sitting on the floor, when I have to take the accessories off of it, may make it kinda hard. I will have to come up with a poor mans way to do it. Have a friend who has a stand but would still need the adapter to bolt it all up. Garage is getting a little cluttered with the engine in the floor in front of the car now. Think I need to do some pondering on all of this.



What did you do with the injectors while the engine was stripped? Did you send them out to be cleaned? Thinking of doing that here. Have heard RC is a good place to send them to. Guess I will need to get seals for them & also am considering buying a new fuel pulsation dampener for the fuel rail. I have heard that with age, they have a tendency to start leaking. I sure don`t want my car catching fire later in it`s life because I didn`t change that out while I had the car apart.
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Speeder' post='922296
.......am considering buying a new fuel pulsation dampener for the fuel rail. I have heard that with age, they have a tendency to start leaking. I sure don`t want my car catching fire later in it`s life because I didn`t change that out while I had the car apart.
They do have some history of leaking and starting fires with age and heat. I installed a new one but another option is to elimnate it. Chris Sanders at Banzai is well known and a good reputation. His site has a how-to. Go to Tech Support and then scroll down to "General Rotary How-to's...... http://www.banzai-racing.com/ Your call. Either way, I replaced all the rubber fuel lines.
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:28 PM
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Were your flow rates off very much from new when they recieved the injectors before cleaning? Just curious how much they can change their flow rates over time & use.
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Speeder' post='922300' date='Jun 1 2009, 04:28 PM
Were your flow rates off very much from new when they recieved the injectors before cleaning? Just curious how much they can change their flow rates over time & use.
Actually, no. I don't have the info in front of me, but as I recall, the rates were pretty good to begin with...only a percentage or two improvemet. But then I run Chevron-Techron cleaner through twice a year and the car only had 87k.

In a way, that tells me KGPARTS was is on the up and up. They didn't know anything about my car or how I maintained it. If they wanted to try to impress me, they could have sent me some bullshit that reflected huge improvements in order to validate what they had done. But instead they sent me really what I expected...marginal improvement. It was really done as a preventative because as you'll find out the injectors are buried pretty good and not easy to access. I'm still glad I had it done.
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:12 PM
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Thanks Jim for that info. Also bookmarked those links you gave me.



I had spoken with someone else a little while back who had some injectors cleaned & they too said that the improvement was just a few percent more than when received so apparently it seems like injectors do well for quite awhile. Would be interesting to hear from someone whose injectors were really nasty & cleaning them brought the performance from them, way up. I wonder how many miles it would take to make an injector not perform well? Factors too would be trashy fuel filters, old gas etc, would be harmful I realize. I guess too, running a fuel injector cleaner through the tank occasionally might be all it would take to keep injectors running at their peak at all times. I am going to do it anyway since I am in to the engine so much at this point, it would be an added peace of mind factor I believe.
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:38 PM
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Passed another mile marker.



How much more can they pack in there?!!!

Starting to find a few hoses with hairline cracks in them. Can`t wait to see how brittle they will be when I flex `em. New hose on everything is about to happen!
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Old 06-03-2009, 11:09 PM
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Just a few more items & I BELIEVE I MIGHT be able to get that rats nest off of there. Incredible...There was actually an engine under all of that stuff!



Engine heat sure baked those hoses. I dropped a few of them on the ground & they sounded like pieces of plastic when they hit. The harness in areas is pretty hard too. I am going to be careful with it. I would hate to think of buying a new one!
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:45 AM
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*Now is the time for taking those digital pictures discussed earlier.



*There are varying ways to get those hoses off of the plastic nipples of the solenoids w/o breaking the nipples. What I was successful with was a small dremel with a cutting wheel. I'd make a longitundinal cut in the hose above the nipple and then put a small standard screwdriver in it. A twist of the screwdriver and they would typically "pop" loose. You just have to be careful not to go too deep with the dremel. Sounds complicated but it wasn't...and I got pretty good at it after a few times.

But maybe someone more experienced has a better way?



*PB BLASTER on the electrical connectors works great at getting them loose. Most of mine were stuck pretty good from heat and dirt. It's electronics friendly. Smells like a camel's *** dipped in ether, but it's effective and if you close all the doors and windows time goes by really fast.



*Those larger nest " rack screws can also be stubborn. Mine wouldn't budge initially. I don't know what it's called anymore, but I had an impact tool with a screwdriver tip. It's got an internal "cam" and when you give it a smack with the hammer it applies quick torque to the screw. You might already have one and know what I'm talking about. This worked EXCELLENT for me. Also works great on those big phillips head screws in brake rotors.



*On my harness, it was mostly just the outer wrap that MAZDA used that had basically turned into ABS plastic. The wire and insulation inside weren't in bad shape. I removed the plastic and then re-wrapped with that silicone fusion tape. Then the accordian plastic loom cover you can get anywhere. A little friction tape, some small zip-ties and all was golden. Kinda tedious but...... I did mine over the winter while watching football.
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:26 AM
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if there is water in your exhaust then its a coolant seal, did you have problems with the car overheating often and did it seem to eat coolant? also dont take the rats nest off, it can really mess with your tuning unless your going standalone, then take it off
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