Water in the exhaust port
06-04-2009, 12:32 PM
#31
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 98
*Now is the time for taking those digital pictures discussed earlier.
Have a folder on the machine here with almost 70 pics in it. Different angles, distances etc. as you had recommended earlier. Some of my hoses have been marked using gel ink (shows up good on the black hose) with numbers & their corresponding locations marked with the same numbers. Should help immensely. I am SURE I am going to need to reference those pics on reassembly. Surprised my cameras batteries haven`t died yet!
*There are varying ways to get those hoses off of the plastic nipples of the solenoids w/o breaking the nipples. What I was successful with was a small dremel with a cutting wheel. I'd make a longitundinal cut in the hose above the nipple and then put a small standard screwdriver in it. A twist of the screwdriver and they would typically "pop" loose. You just have to be careful not to go too deep with the dremel. Sounds complicated but it wasn't...and I got pretty good at it after a few times.
But maybe someone more experienced has a better way?
DJSeven, when I spoke to him a week or 2 ago, said what he does on the harder to remove lines is take a lighter or some heat source & warm the vacuum hose a little & it will come off easier. I haven`t tried that one but definitely want to take care not to break any of those nipples off of any of those solenoids. Have replaced one or two in the past & they are expensive. I don`t really care what I do to the hose as I am rehosing all of the lines anyway. The dremel idea would work good too I think. At least now I have a couple of ways I know of to get those stubborn hoses off.
*PB BLASTER on the electrical connectors works great at getting them loose. Most of mine were stuck pretty good from heat and dirt. It's electronics friendly.
Have a can of that stuff here & have used it. Does work good.
Smells like a camel's *** dipped in ether, but it's effective and if you close all the doors and windows time goes by really fast.
Almost fell out of my chair laughing when I read that!! Good one!! Hehehe! Even the guy at AutoZone where I got it said something to that same effect!
*Those larger nest " rack screws can also be stubborn. Mine wouldn't budge initially. I don't know what it's called anymore, but I had an impact tool with a screwdriver tip. It's got an internal "cam" and when you give it a smack with the hammer it applies quick torque to the screw. You might already have one and know what I'm talking about. This worked EXCELLENT for me. Also works great on those big phillips head screws in brake rotors.
I know the tool you are talking about. One of the guys where I used to work had one. Pretty neat tool!
*On my harness, it was mostly just the outer wrap that MAZDA used that had basically turned into ABS plastic. The wire and insulation inside weren't in bad shape. I removed the plastic and then re-wrapped with that silicone fusion tape. Then the accordian plastic loom cover you can get anywhere. A little friction tape, some small zip-ties and all was golden. Kinda tedious but...... I did mine over the winter while watching football.
Now THAT "while watching football" remark is the way things oughta be done! Nice to be able to take ones time on things & not get in any hurry.
Thanks for the advice Jim! Very helpful!
Back to the mess.
Have a folder on the machine here with almost 70 pics in it. Different angles, distances etc. as you had recommended earlier. Some of my hoses have been marked using gel ink (shows up good on the black hose) with numbers & their corresponding locations marked with the same numbers. Should help immensely. I am SURE I am going to need to reference those pics on reassembly. Surprised my cameras batteries haven`t died yet!
*There are varying ways to get those hoses off of the plastic nipples of the solenoids w/o breaking the nipples. What I was successful with was a small dremel with a cutting wheel. I'd make a longitundinal cut in the hose above the nipple and then put a small standard screwdriver in it. A twist of the screwdriver and they would typically "pop" loose. You just have to be careful not to go too deep with the dremel. Sounds complicated but it wasn't...and I got pretty good at it after a few times.
But maybe someone more experienced has a better way?
DJSeven, when I spoke to him a week or 2 ago, said what he does on the harder to remove lines is take a lighter or some heat source & warm the vacuum hose a little & it will come off easier. I haven`t tried that one but definitely want to take care not to break any of those nipples off of any of those solenoids. Have replaced one or two in the past & they are expensive. I don`t really care what I do to the hose as I am rehosing all of the lines anyway. The dremel idea would work good too I think. At least now I have a couple of ways I know of to get those stubborn hoses off.
*PB BLASTER on the electrical connectors works great at getting them loose. Most of mine were stuck pretty good from heat and dirt. It's electronics friendly.
Have a can of that stuff here & have used it. Does work good.
Smells like a camel's *** dipped in ether, but it's effective and if you close all the doors and windows time goes by really fast.
Almost fell out of my chair laughing when I read that!!
*Those larger nest " rack screws can also be stubborn. Mine wouldn't budge initially. I don't know what it's called anymore, but I had an impact tool with a screwdriver tip. It's got an internal "cam" and when you give it a smack with the hammer it applies quick torque to the screw. You might already have one and know what I'm talking about. This worked EXCELLENT for me. Also works great on those big phillips head screws in brake rotors.
I know the tool you are talking about. One of the guys where I used to work had one. Pretty neat tool!
*On my harness, it was mostly just the outer wrap that MAZDA used that had basically turned into ABS plastic. The wire and insulation inside weren't in bad shape. I removed the plastic and then re-wrapped with that silicone fusion tape. Then the accordian plastic loom cover you can get anywhere. A little friction tape, some small zip-ties and all was golden. Kinda tedious but...... I did mine over the winter while watching football.
Now THAT "while watching football" remark is the way things oughta be done! Nice to be able to take ones time on things & not get in any hurry.
Thanks for the advice Jim! Very helpful!
Back to the mess.
06-04-2009, 12:50 PM
#32
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 98
Originally Posted by FC_Kevin' post='922418' date='Jun 4 2009, 11:26 AM
if there is water in your exhaust then its a coolant seal, did you have problems with the car overheating often and did it seem to eat coolant? also dont take the rats nest off, it can really mess with your tuning unless your going standalone, then take it off
That is what it was. It never got to an overheated state while I had it. I am the 5th owner I believe so it`s hard to say what happened to it earlier in its life. I didn`t find myself putting coolant in it very often. Sometimes I would add a little but it wasn`t too much. I have only put around 15K on the car since I bought it. I knew it needed work when purchased & was sold the car a bunch cheaper than what the guy on the lot wanted for it. The body & interior was in great shape so I took the thing off the guys hands. He knew he couldn`t have sold it to anyone anyway.
How is taking the rats nest off going to affect my tuning? The new hoses going back on will be pretty much the same length as the old ones & even if they were longer or shorter, I can`t see how that would affect the tune of the engine. It is going to have to come off anyway since it is going on the new block.
06-04-2009, 09:59 PM
#34
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mid-West
Posts: 791
An experienced FD owner and friend who was helping me with my rebuild suggested strongly that I remove that bake-a-light plastic portion of that nipple and just use the metal part. His argument was that they can fail over time...much like the plastic ASTs and OEM radiator end-tanks. Mine seemed solid enough, but I trust his opinion and ended up removing it. Not sure now, but IIRC I used two small standard screwdrivers in thru the side slots to compress some tabs and it pulled off. If you want revenge, I suppose careful application of a big frickin' channel lock pliers would work too.
I replaced all coolant hoses anyway and used two quality worm-gear clamps. No issues since.
I replaced all coolant hoses anyway and used two quality worm-gear clamps. No issues since.
06-04-2009, 10:28 PM
#35
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 98
I was thinking more along the lines of one round out of my .45 should remove it quicker.
Think I will take your lead on using hose clamps on the hose to the block when I re-install everything. I really like that idea better.
Thanks Jim!
Think I will take your lead on using hose clamps on the hose to the block when I re-install everything. I really like that idea better.
Thanks Jim!
06-04-2009, 11:32 PM
#36
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 98
OK. Looks like we are now off to the races! After a couple of small hurdles, time to move on to the fun stuff!
Only 1 area I was a little perturbed about. Marked in red in the photo. Think I will use a female spade lug to fix it.
Out with the old & in with the new!
Only 1 area I was a little perturbed about. Marked in red in the photo. Think I will use a female spade lug to fix it.
Out with the old & in with the new!
06-05-2009, 09:10 AM
#37
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mid-West
Posts: 791
That's your water temp thermosensor connection. A spade connector would probably work just fine, but you could also post up a WTB here or on the other forum and see if someone out there doesn't have a pig-tail they'd sell you cheap.
I can't remember if you're on the stock ECU or have a PFC (and even if you have a PFC but no ready access to a datalogit) but either way you could consider replacing the the stock FD thermoswitch with the 89-91 FC thermoswitch. It's completely plug and play, but the FC switch will turn your fans on much sooner (IIRC, 95 C instead of 106 C.) than our stock FD switch. They're not inexpensive, but a little more peace of mind.
I can't remember if you're on the stock ECU or have a PFC (and even if you have a PFC but no ready access to a datalogit) but either way you could consider replacing the the stock FD thermoswitch with the 89-91 FC thermoswitch. It's completely plug and play, but the FC switch will turn your fans on much sooner (IIRC, 95 C instead of 106 C.) than our stock FD switch. They're not inexpensive, but a little more peace of mind.
06-05-2009, 10:04 AM
#38
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Posts: 98
Originally Posted by Signal 2' post='922466' date='Jun 5 2009, 10:10 AM
That's your water temp thermosensor connection. A spade connector would probably work just fine, but you could also post up a WTB here or on the other forum and see if someone out there doesn't have a pig-tail they'd sell you cheap.
I can't remember if you're on the stock ECU or have a PFC (and even if you have a PFC but no ready access to a datalogit) but either way you could consider replacing the the stock FD thermoswitch with the 89-91 FC thermoswitch. It's completely plug and play, but the FC switch will turn your fans on much sooner (IIRC, 95 C instead of 106 C.) than our stock FD switch. They're not inexpensive, but a little more peace of mind.
I can't remember if you're on the stock ECU or have a PFC (and even if you have a PFC but no ready access to a datalogit) but either way you could consider replacing the the stock FD thermoswitch with the 89-91 FC thermoswitch. It's completely plug and play, but the FC switch will turn your fans on much sooner (IIRC, 95 C instead of 106 C.) than our stock FD switch. They're not inexpensive, but a little more peace of mind.
I am on the stock ECU. No PFC. Someone else mentioned doing the switch to an FC thermoswitch. I had forgotten about that! Think I will get one as it would keep the car a little cooler I believe.
So you are telling me that the thermoswitch that the wire has come off of, is the thermoswitch I can switch for the FC thermoswitch then? Just want to make sure I have the right one chosen, so when I swap it out, it`ll work like it should. By chance happen to have a part number?
Thanks guy!
06-05-2009, 12:32 PM
#39
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Posts: 98
Jim, Went over to the MazdaTrix website & looked around for the thermoswitch you spoke of.
Looks like it may be what you were talking about. Was the only one I saw that looked like what is in my WP housing.
89-92 TURBO & AUTO Fan Switch Sensor
Looks like it may be what you were talking about. Was the only one I saw that looked like what is in my WP housing.
89-92 TURBO & AUTO Fan Switch Sensor
06-05-2009, 02:43 PM
#40
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mid-West
Posts: 791
Originally Posted by Speeder' post='922468' date='Jun 5 2009, 10:04 AM
......By chance happen to have a part number?........
As I recall, it will have "95" stamped on the side of it in the brass, indicating the threshold temp to activate the fans. This is a somewhat common reliability mod for our cars, so check your current one first before ordering. It's possible the previous owner changed it. If it's the original FD thermoswitch it should have a "108"....for that threshold temp. Other than that, they are identical, with identical connectors and installation.