13brv3

Greetings all,



I have a new boost puzzle. I have a completely stock (but not for long) FD that had no secondary boost when I got it. I recently did a hose job, and found a couple problem with bad hoses along the way. During the hose job, all solenoids, check valves, tanks, and actuators were tested OK. When I put it all back together, all was reasonably well at 10-6-10.



Unfortuntely, a couple days after the hose job, I took the car out and stopped at a car wash to rinse some oil off the bottom of the motor and subframe. I never opened the hood, only rinsed the bottom. On the way home from there, I had 10-5-5. The boost was 10-6-10 before the car wash stop.



I drove it a couple times in the next week, and all was well again, then today, after driving in the rain, 10-5-5.



The water theory may be just a coincidence. I originally thought it was a heat related problem, but I've tried letting the car heat soak, then drove it again with no problems.



The final clue is the fact that I can make the secondary boost come up to normal if I let off the gas and then get back on when over 4500 rpm. I just don't understand what's different about actuating the secondary turbo that way, vs passing through the 4500 transition.



If anyone has a suggestion, I'd love to hear it.



Thanks,

r_xplicit

could be the turbo control actuator. but hey, i would say scrap the focker and go non sequential. but then you might hate the lag until you open the air to and from the engine better.....

13brv3

Hmmmm, I wonder if the turbo actuator lever could be sticking. Maybe I should hit it with some PB Blaster.



I've given serious thought to trying Don't Be a Rikki's poor mans non-sequential. It seems easy enough to do, and I could see how I like it without doing anything permanent. I've heard that full boost won't come on until 4500 or so with a stock system, but I don't really see the need for boost below that. Sure, if I'm in 5th on the interstate I can get 10 psi of boost at 2500 rpm, but who cares. If I'm trying to go fast, and I'm at any RPM below 4500, I'm not doing my job right.



Thanks,

j9fd3s

it could be the waste gate solenoid is intermittantly not working.



mike

boh808

I had a similiar problem like yours a little while ago, but it was not related to the water. It may just be a coincidence. I found that a couple of the hoses were connected to the wrong place. One of my silicone hoses that connects to the second turbo was connected to the BOV.

P'cola FD

Sounds to me like a problem with the TCA or turbo control solenoid for the vacuum. Try T-ing into the hose going to the vacuum side of the TCA. Many times, when people have to let off and then get back on the throttle for the car to transition, it is because the vacuum chamber or related hoses have a leak.

jspecracer7

What are your mods? Non-Sequential is for cars that are heavily BPU'd...



My car has full exhaust, Power FC, FMIC, Twinpower, Open Air Intake, etc...

Fd3BOOST

I have to back jspec up on this one. If your car is not significantly modified you are not gonna like non-sequential. I am thinking that you have a hose in the wrong place. I would suggest that you go back and retrace all of your lines out until you find the culprit.

Fd3BOOST

BTW It's not Rikki's nonsequential. He didn't invent the mod. He just was the only guy who made a large daigram how-to on it. He learned it from 7 Sins.

13brv3

Wow, thanks for the comments. First, I know that non-seq is primarily for heavily modded cars, and that will be the case with mine soon enough. For now though, I'll try to hold off on the non-seq test.



I took an identical trip today as yesterday (not for happy reasons damn it), and the car was 10-6-10 (fade to 7) all the way. No rain today though. My current plan is to keep testing the thing and hope that it only happens when it's wet. Then I'll tell people it's a safety feature



Cheers,