ive got really bad results on a compression test recently and i cant really hold an idle so i figure its time for a rebuild. im thinking about pulling the engine from my fd myself and then sending it out to pineapple to be rebuilt. basically what i want to know is what am i getting into and are there any tutorials(online or that i can buy) that cover removing my engine and is it worth it to save the money in labor by pulling the engine yourself? i am somewhat mechanically inclined, but i have never done anything on the level of pulling an engine. i have a few friends that are pretty skilled mechanics, so if i get stuck i can always ask them for help.



does that video from bruce turrentine about rebuilding engines also cover getting them out of the car?

 

pulling your engine isnt a huge task just time consuming...just pay attention to what your doing and triple check that you disconnected all the lines and plugs form the engine. but it be much easier if you had one of you mechanic friends help you out

 

PUT LABELS ON EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

it should be pretty easy for your friends. if you don't have one yet, order a factory service manual, that tells you everything you need to do, pics, etc....



you can ask here if you need anymore help

 

I pulled my motor, installed a reman from Malloy, installed new control arms/ bushings/ engine mounts, Pineapple clutch and low miles twins. Oh yeah and running evans coolant. started on first crank, vaccum at idle is 17 in. Hg with only 10 miles; should be even higher vaccum once it's broken in



Took a total of say 60 hours over the course of 3 months. Mazda book says 20 hours for replacement.



Here are my notes:



- take digital pictures of everything, I mean everything that your eyeballs see, do it.

- go to radio shack, get some labels for wire and hoses

- did I say take digital photos, esp the rat's nest.

- pull and install with tranny ... much much easier with a load leveler and hoist

- be prepared to spend about $4K even if you do it yourself; SPEND THE MONEY ON HARD TO REACH PARTS LIKE HOSES, CONNECTORS

- a new engine wiring harness is mandatory; at $600 from Malloy, it's steep but if you want to spend more time diagnosing electricals, don't buy one;

 

Im pulling my motor right now also, and this cant be stressed enough, so i will say it too...



LABEL EVERYTHING!!

 

I did mine with my friend over the course of 5 days. It's not that bad. If you've done the vacuum job before you've done 1/2 of it.



We pulled it with the downpipe attached but without the transmission. Getting the tranny and the motor apart and back together was a pita. I tend to think it would be more difficult when both items are out of the car, but I've heard from others that it's managable.



suggestions:

1. expect to find a broken driver side motor mount

2. order every gasket you can tihnk of. if you don't use some you can alway send them back

3. replace all fuel system o-rings

4. buy a flywheel stopper from mazdatrix-it's $22. I know you can get it off with some stone age tools, but good luck getting it back on.

5. make sure your ignition coils are wired correctly and your plug wires are correct.

6. make sure the electrical connectors are secure on the injectors

7. buy new turbo to engine block studs

8. make sure you have a clutch alignment tool

9. find an online copy of the shop manual and buy yourself a torque wrench.

 

can i get a manual from a mazda dealer or would it be something i would have to order from somewhere?



and would pineapple be generally the best choice for a rebuild? mazdatrix seems like its a bit more than id want to pay for a rebuild, but i could probably save on shipping (i live in so cal) so it might come to about the same price. anywhere else i can send it to? i kind of ruled out remans because ive heard bad things about them and i want a street port and 3mm apex seals.



thanks for the quick responses.

 

I had my engine pulled in 2.5 hours. It took me about 1.5 hours to tear down the engine to bare block. Took about 3.5 hours to put all externals back on the engine. (P.S. the rats nest and LIM will come off as one unit, which means you can even leave MOST of the wiring harness plugged in) I did not label a single thing. the rest of the wiring harness just lays in place. you will want to watch the PS plug and the knock sensor plug, they are identical! This was a very easy install. There was nothing about the job that made me nervous. I did remove the engine and tranny together, which made it seem alot easier.

 

You should be able to find copies of the factory service manual online for free..I actually have them on my puter so I can E-mail me to ya if you need (got em after I spent $90 on a factory manual from Malloy )



I dont think there is any need to buy a new wiring harness as long as everything is working. Some commonly missed items when pulling engine:



Coolant hoses *One on drivers side firewall*

Clutch slave cylinder

All 3 fuel lines

-Also noted..the monster oil cooler lines have a wire clip..pull the clip and dont loose it! There is no need tounbolt the 20+mm fitting nuts.



-Pull the engine with the DP and turbo assy, no need to fight them while the engine is in the car.







If you have anymore questions or need that manual, e-mail me or Jimmy



good luck