Oil Pan Leaking
12-07-2002, 10:49 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 437
Damn! pple. dont listen to these FNG's if you want an expert opinion call Dave at Kdrotary or Brian at rotorsports racing.
www.kdrotary.com
www.rotorsportsracing.com
these are the 2 best guys on the east coast.
www.kdrotary.com
www.rotorsportsracing.com
these are the 2 best guys on the east coast.
12-23-2002, 08:40 PM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 6
Same problem here, '93 with a bad oil pan leak.
The shop that does my work wants to pull the engine to "replace the gasket and seal it properly" Is this necessary? I saw in a post below a comment about dropping the subframe to do the job...?
Thanks in advance.
John
The shop that does my work wants to pull the engine to "replace the gasket and seal it properly" Is this necessary? I saw in a post below a comment about dropping the subframe to do the job...?
Thanks in advance.
John
12-28-2002, 04:06 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
why would you use 70-80% of the tube on an oil pan to make it seal?!
When you bolt up the pan most of that silicone is going to squeeze out and just make a big mess.
Make sure your surfaces are absolutely clean and nicely scuffed (I use a block with fine grit paper (800 or so) for the finish before wiping clean and applying silicone, and omit the gasket) and you shouldnt have any leaks.
Using a shitload of silicone is pointless if all the excess is just going to be hanging out of the junction afterwards. Ito's suggestion sounds like a good one and will probably help a bit. Also make sure the pan mating surface doesnt have bends in it from removal, and be sure to use a torque wrench on all those 10mm bolts.
When you bolt up the pan most of that silicone is going to squeeze out and just make a big mess.
Make sure your surfaces are absolutely clean and nicely scuffed (I use a block with fine grit paper (800 or so) for the finish before wiping clean and applying silicone, and omit the gasket) and you shouldnt have any leaks.
Using a shitload of silicone is pointless if all the excess is just going to be hanging out of the junction afterwards. Ito's suggestion sounds like a good one and will probably help a bit. Also make sure the pan mating surface doesnt have bends in it from removal, and be sure to use a torque wrench on all those 10mm bolts.
12-28-2002, 08:34 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,981
you guys are all nutz!!!! I have done a few FD oil pans here's the skinny:
USE A MAZDA GASKET!!! put a SMALL bead of silicone on both sides of the gasket and torque the bolts to spec. You will never leak again if you do it this way!!!
as far as removing the oil pan you do not need to drop the subframe. first unbolt the engine mounts from the subframe. then use a jack and a block of wood and jack up the tranny as far up as it will go, by doing this you will have enough room to remove the mounts from the engine, and then slide the pan out of the car. like I said I've done the above @ least 5 times for people, never had a problem yet.
USE A MAZDA GASKET!!! put a SMALL bead of silicone on both sides of the gasket and torque the bolts to spec. You will never leak again if you do it this way!!!
as far as removing the oil pan you do not need to drop the subframe. first unbolt the engine mounts from the subframe. then use a jack and a block of wood and jack up the tranny as far up as it will go, by doing this you will have enough room to remove the mounts from the engine, and then slide the pan out of the car. like I said I've done the above @ least 5 times for people, never had a problem yet.