DetByron

ok, sorry to do this to you guys, but I need some expert brain-power. My car is not starting.

This is the history leading up to it:

At work I installed an A/F meter and collant temp gauge (heven't tapped the thermostat housing yet).

Then while driving home I had no boost. (I have a boost gauge going to the UIM). The gauge would show I think about 16 or 18mmhg while tooling around, and then when I accelerate it would spool up to 0psi.

I assumed I threw a vacume hose (it's non-sequential with a rats-nest under the UIM) and would look at it the next day because it was dark.



Next day I tried to start it. no dice. It cranks, but I don't think I'm getting any spark.

The fuel pump is running.

I just put in a new battery (oh yeah, my stupid Autometer A/F gauge stays on when the car is off. I wired the 12V from the igntion like the directions said. I didn't think this was related, but it did drain my old battery).

I tried removing the EGI relay, cranking, then replacing it.

I haven't tried the ATF trick, because I don't want to ****-off my whole neighbor-hood.

I checked the plugs, and they look pretty good. I checked to make sure the spark plug wires were all on tightly.

I checked for error codes. I only have #16 (EGR). (the valve was removed, but I think I still have the solenoid, and my ECU is stock)



So, here's a few questions:

1) Is there any way in hell my 0psi boost could be related to not starting? (like I said, I'm non-seq.)

2) What is the best way to check if you're getting spark? Actually pull the plug and put it in the boot?

3) When starting, do just the leading plugs fire, or just the trailing, or both?

4) Where can I check if I'm getting fuel to the engine? Do I have to check at the enjectors (HOW???)

5) Total newbie question here: what is the black hose going into the back of the intake elbow (I mean from the IC to the throttle body. I'm sure you knew what I meant, though). I kinda assumed that it was a fuel pre-injection.



Oh, by the way, the color is red, if that helps - LOL.

Lost Time

Your a/f meter needs to be wired into switched power, not constant. It doesn't use alot of power but it will drain your battery. Have you tried jumping the car off?

DetByron

Well, I'm a happy *****.

I found the EGI Relay procedure (take out relay, crank for 20 sec, replace and crank, repeat.)

It took me about 7 tries and I finally got it. I think I gotta change my oil now, right? (It's inriched with gas?)

Anyhow, I found my boost problem too. The piping from the Y-Pipe to the IC blew off. I am such a moron, I think I should be banned.

Anyhow, if I think of more stupid problems (and can't find the answer from the search engine) should I post it here or in the general discussion forum?

r_xplicit

yeah. do that. they are good brain teasers////