how is your idle w/9's?
10-13-2002, 09:46 AM
#1
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Location: jackson, ms
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do any of you other guys run 9's all the way around? i changed about a month ago when i was having an issue that i thought to be plug related, and thought....what the hell? plenty of guys do it. since the change, and my full non sequential completion, replacement of the water thermosensor, and new 10mm plug wires, i have had high idle and a "lump" or charachteristic "missing" sound in the exhaust note. i switched back to 7's and 9's last night, and that seemed to help the smoothness of the exhaust note, and the idle. did any one else notice a different idling pattern between the different plug set-up?
if so, explain.
also, could someone else give me some insight on the high idle. i know that i replaces the TB and UIM securely, but could high idle that is not changed with the idle screw be related to an intake air leak. and if so, please note that i can get 12psi boost on the controller, but only run 10. i have played with the air bleed screw as best i can, but that thing seems figgity. i was able to get the car idling downwards to around 1350-1400, but that is still 500rpm higher that it was before i removed the manifold and removed the rats nest.
someone please give me another hint as to what i might be experiencing.
i am currently idling at 1350-1400. vacuum reading is ~18 on the AM boost guage, and the plugs are new..........
thanks guys....
if so, explain.
also, could someone else give me some insight on the high idle. i know that i replaces the TB and UIM securely, but could high idle that is not changed with the idle screw be related to an intake air leak. and if so, please note that i can get 12psi boost on the controller, but only run 10. i have played with the air bleed screw as best i can, but that thing seems figgity. i was able to get the car idling downwards to around 1350-1400, but that is still 500rpm higher that it was before i removed the manifold and removed the rats nest.
someone please give me another hint as to what i might be experiencing.
i am currently idling at 1350-1400. vacuum reading is ~18 on the AM boost guage, and the plugs are new..........
thanks guys....
10-13-2002, 11:03 AM
#3
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yeah, that is what i think. i run stock ecu right now. now, i know that people freak out with this, but i am totally secure with this, for now. I mean you know that i am in the hunt for an upgrade right now, and will be purchasing the power fc in a month or so. i am ok on the ecu right now, because cameron at pettit tells me to monitor the boost control, and i will be ok. he practically guaranteed it. his quote was "if you stay around 10psi, you do not need an upgrade." this is not the safest assumption in my books, which is why i AM going to get the computer....
now, on to the idle. do you think that it is ecu related, coupled with the fact that i have no air pump, nothin. i have all the bolt ons, and a few more. i do NOT run lean, as far as my a/f meter tells me. i change the plugs on average of about a regular oil change. call me carazy. they are nicely brown. that is charachteristic of a stoich fuel/air consumption. which also tells me that i need to richen up the mix a little, to avoid any "mishaps" if you get wha ti mean.
do you think that it could ba a coil?
th ecar idles really rough when first started. really rough. im told that is due to all the crap that is either add or deleted from the original set up.
how about the high idle? any guesses.....
now, on to the idle. do you think that it is ecu related, coupled with the fact that i have no air pump, nothin. i have all the bolt ons, and a few more. i do NOT run lean, as far as my a/f meter tells me. i change the plugs on average of about a regular oil change. call me carazy. they are nicely brown. that is charachteristic of a stoich fuel/air consumption. which also tells me that i need to richen up the mix a little, to avoid any "mishaps" if you get wha ti mean.
do you think that it could ba a coil?
th ecar idles really rough when first started. really rough. im told that is due to all the crap that is either add or deleted from the original set up.
how about the high idle? any guesses.....
10-13-2002, 11:59 AM
#4
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Location: California
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the high idle is a vacuum leak. http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlanham/fu...l/3modrule.html cam is right, if you can keep it under 11-12psi you should be fine on the stock ecu
mike
mike
10-13-2002, 12:36 PM
#5
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Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,867
I run 9's and no emissions and I also have a pretty lumpy idle. It sounds cool though. I think its due to the airpump and egr being disconnected. The high idle sounds like you forgot to connect a vac hose somewhere.
I'd rather run colder plugs and have a lumpy idle then risk detonation by using the 7's and 9's. Just my opinion though.
I'd rather run colder plugs and have a lumpy idle then risk detonation by using the 7's and 9's. Just my opinion though.
10-13-2002, 02:01 PM
#6
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my friend has the same set up as me. well, at least as far as the removed air pump and egr like you said.
i have a street port from pettit. i know this has an affect on the idle, so the moderate difference in teh note and pattern do not bother me.
i do not think that my plugs or coils are failing, i would know.
i am more concerned about the high idle. if i were to have an intake air leak, it would most likely be on the uim or the TB right? the gaskets are the steel ones, and in good shape. i used some rtv sealant on the greddy elbow to the tb, but re-used the bead that i made. i might retry this spot.
if i did "forget" a vacuum line, what gives. i did the non sequential, full removal of the nest and solenoids. i have not removed the flapper door yet.
there is an adjustment screw on the firewall side of the TB, and i was told to tighten it all the way. i did, having first taken the spring out of it.
i guess that i will play with the air bleed screw some more.
is there a chance the i need to adjust the TPS or could this all be caused by my lack of an ecu upgrade?
louis, and thanks for the assistance...
i have a street port from pettit. i know this has an affect on the idle, so the moderate difference in teh note and pattern do not bother me.
i do not think that my plugs or coils are failing, i would know.
i am more concerned about the high idle. if i were to have an intake air leak, it would most likely be on the uim or the TB right? the gaskets are the steel ones, and in good shape. i used some rtv sealant on the greddy elbow to the tb, but re-used the bead that i made. i might retry this spot.
if i did "forget" a vacuum line, what gives. i did the non sequential, full removal of the nest and solenoids. i have not removed the flapper door yet.
there is an adjustment screw on the firewall side of the TB, and i was told to tighten it all the way. i did, having first taken the spring out of it.
i guess that i will play with the air bleed screw some more.
is there a chance the i need to adjust the TPS or could this all be caused by my lack of an ecu upgrade?
louis, and thanks for the assistance...
10-13-2002, 08:19 PM
#7
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Location: La Plata, Maryland
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Good question. Stumper. I think the TPS is a good place to go next. I really think the fuel mix is off. I know you said your a/f is reading good but I think that something is off. You should upgrade the ecu. As far as boost goes and all that jazz yea your not gonna blow your seals(lets hope) But why keep putting the ecu upgrade off? Now your stuck questioning yourself. Pretty sucky predicament wouldn't you say. Well thats my o2
10-13-2002, 08:36 PM
#8
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
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High idle on a map-sensed system is an air leak somewhere. The TB butterflies need to be set to whatever the factory clearance to the bores should be. The air bleed screw bleeds air past the butterfly to fine tune the idle speed. If the screw is all the way in too much air is coming in elsewhere. The old carb setups (& factory 12A turbos) used to have a little electric motor that opened the throttle for a bit to 'clear the throat' but on the later stuff the factory ECU has quite a lot of after-start enrichment to do the same which might be causing the roughness at startup. Generally though, factory ECUs don't like it when stuff is pulled off
10-14-2002, 12:01 PM
#9
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well, after getting frustrated with the high idle. i looked into it once again last night. a rotary guru looked at my car at nopi and told me that the idle screw on the motor side of the TB, where the cables attach was not helping, so i left it at that.
well, last night, i fiddled with it. it worked fine. i set the idle to about 875, and all is well.
i noticed during the cold start up this morning that the car idled better than ever, and there was no exaggerated loping or sound of a "miss". it was interesting to me that the few hundred rpm made such a drastic difference during the warm up........
louis
well, last night, i fiddled with it. it worked fine. i set the idle to about 875, and all is well.
i noticed during the cold start up this morning that the car idled better than ever, and there was no exaggerated loping or sound of a "miss". it was interesting to me that the few hundred rpm made such a drastic difference during the warm up........
louis
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