Craig

This sounds like what I went through last spring. After what seemed like endless searching for the problem, it turned out the center of the radiator core was blocked with black sludge. Replaced the radiator and the problem went away.

FikseRxSeven

check the radiator cap and the AST cap to see if there are tears in the rubber seal. and while you have those off, check if the water levels are high.

nopistons94

[quote name='puppyslaughter' date='Apr 22 2005, 12:07 AM']ok the fans work fine cause when i shut it down they stay on and on the new rad issue im not trying to cut and trim to make a new one fit so anyone know one of one that is worth a damn that goes in the same spot as the old with no mods. and i can hear the coolant boilling when i open the hood after it gets hott


[/quote]





bro, you dont have to cut and trim a koyo rad to fit at all. Nor would you have to cut and trim your radiator if you take it to a shop to remove all the gunk thats built up inside it. I guarentee you the reason your car is getting hot is because your radiator is blocked up. Heres what you do , run your car for a while and after you get out, feel all over the rad. If any of the radiator feels cold, your rad is blocked somewhere and its time to get a new one or rod it. I mean, its up to you, blow your motor or get a new rad.





[quote name='Craig' date='Apr 22 2005, 02:12 AM']This sounds like what I went through last spring. After what seemed like endless searching for the problem, it turned out the center of the radiator core was blocked with black sludge. Replaced the radiator and the problem went away.


[/quote]





exactly.

puppyslaughter

im gonna try changing the thermastat tomarrow if that doesnt work its new rad time yay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SilverSeven

[quote name='PhoenixDownVII' date='Apr 20 2005, 07:06 PM']My FD is essentially stock, and even while stuck in traffic, driving her home for the first time, on a 90 degree NE (=HUMID) day...the stock temp guage didn't go above mid-way.


[/quote]

Well, no, it wouldn't. That doesn't mean you don't have a problem, though. I saw 135C on my Commander while drifting the Hoover Dam (an absolutely awe-inspiring run, by the way) and the stock gauge was right where it always sat, dead center.



I had major heat issues for a while. I already had a PWR radiator, but the undertray was gone. After fabbing a new undertray, shrouding the entire radiator (top, bottom, and sides), fan switch mod, AST elimination, new Mazda thermostat, drilling the thermostat, full exhaust insulating wrap and running a different coolant/water ratio, I finally got her to run cool. Now, I've even gone to dual aftermarket fans and combined with my new N-1 hood and C-West nose (thanks, Chuck) I might not even be able to get up to temp now.



Keep in mind that this is on an FD with T04R and front mount, and it's in Vegas.

Signal 2

Well, if you want to get a oversized all-alum. radiator, that's definitely a good thing. But if you haven't got the money right now, I vote for the inexpensive things first.

I'd flush that cooling system thoroughly. While it was drained, I'd drop the OEM radiator and (as BANDIT mentioned), blow it out. The forward facing fins between the AC condensor can get plugged pretty bad with bugs, debris, lint, leaves, etc. . It would cost very little to try and (IMHO) stands a pretty good chance of being your problem.

PhoenixDownVII

[quote name='SilverSeven' date='Apr 22 2005, 11:54 PM']Well, no, it wouldn't. That doesn't mean you don't have a problem, though. I saw 135C on my Commander while drifting the Hoover Dam (an absolutely awe-inspiring run, by the way) and the stock gauge was right where it always sat, dead center.




[/quote]





I know that. I have a water temp guage and when it hit 205-210 the Stock guage still didn't move.



However, if it DOES move, then there's definitely a problem. If it doesn't, there still could be I suppose.. :P

SilverSeven

[quote name='PhoenixDownVII' date='Apr 23 2005, 09:15 AM']I know that. I have a water temp guage and when it hit 205-210 the Stock guage still didn't move.



However, if it DOES move, then there's definitely a problem. If it doesn't, there still could be I suppose.. :P


[/quote]

Yeah, it's funny, the stock gauge has three settings, cold, normal, and rebuild.

Bandit

God that's terrible. All too true.......

Signal 2

[quote name='SilverSeven' date='Apr 23 2005, 03:23 PM']Yeah, it's funny, the stock gauge has three settings, cold, normal, and rebuild.


[/quote]



Yep. Mazda might as well have just given us an idiot light... and put a decent boost guage in it's place.