engine harness
#12
I agree its not too hard its just my friend pulled this diagram of off all-data online and It looked like it went way far into the body he didn't realize that it was the body harness so thats what really freaked me out. is the body harness a lot harder to change? I'm not going to change it as it has given me no problems so far but I just wondered.
#13
I'll throw this out FWIW....
If you don't have the money for a NEW harness, and you weren't having problems with your old one, an option to consider is re-wrapping everything with silcone fusion tape. IIRC the stuff I've got is good up to 450 F. It's relatively expensive...~$5 for a 12 ft. roll, and depending on your harness, you'll probably need quite a few rolls. But it's still alot cheaper than a new harness. I emphasize that this might be an option only if your NOT having problems, the harness and connectors are still basically intact, but just the insulation is crusty.
BTW, you can wrap plugs in it too, to protect them a bit from heat exposure. If/when you need to unplug them, just cut the tape away and re-wrap when your done.
If you don't have the money for a NEW harness, and you weren't having problems with your old one, an option to consider is re-wrapping everything with silcone fusion tape. IIRC the stuff I've got is good up to 450 F. It's relatively expensive...~$5 for a 12 ft. roll, and depending on your harness, you'll probably need quite a few rolls. But it's still alot cheaper than a new harness. I emphasize that this might be an option only if your NOT having problems, the harness and connectors are still basically intact, but just the insulation is crusty.
BTW, you can wrap plugs in it too, to protect them a bit from heat exposure. If/when you need to unplug them, just cut the tape away and re-wrap when your done.
#14
THANKS! I will definetly look into that stuff I would try it on my old one, but it is (A) already removed (B)so heat soaked that the wires and connectors nearly break when I so much as breath on them. it was just a problem waiting to happen. I appreciate the info though I will use that on my new on if its as good as you say it is.
#16
Originally Posted by herblenny' post='846031' date='Nov 20 2006, 09:52 AM
Signal 2, Can you post where you bought that tape? And any specs on the tape itself. I think that would help out a lot.
GB is ~$4.50 for a role of 10 or 12 feet. If your not familiar with it, while they call it "tape" there is NO adhesives used. It is a one inch wide strip of black silicone that only looks like "tape". It's backed by mylar... because once you remove the mylar and wrap it around something, it immediately sticks to itself. Then over the next few hours, it "fuses" to itself forming a permanent seal. GB says their stuff "insulates to 15,000 Volts and is "weather resistant from -85 F. (-65 C.) to 500 F. (260 C.).
It takes a little practice if you've never used it. I usually cut off just a few inches at a time, remove the mylar and go once around whatever I'm wrapping, sticking it to itself. THEN I begin to overlap. On the typical wire loom I overlap about half of the width (1/2 inch) for each time around and it will stretch a little, and "form fit" around stuff like plug sockets etc. The reason I only use a few inches at a time is because once you take the mylar off, if it flops around it will stick to itself and is a minor PITA. Still, you can get really good at in no time. Makes for a very neat wrap. As I understand it (like so many other things) this stuff was developed it for the military. I've been told by some jet mechanics that they've been using it for a number of years.
Batteries are dead in my camera right now. I'll see if I can get some pictures up later.
#17
Re did my harness today..... I had it wrapped upped again before( the old harness)but the weakness and damage was all ready done (1992).I also sanded all grounding points to insure clean contact.
#18
Picture of my temp sender (in the TB coolant line). Sorry for the focus, but I think you can still see how it forms nice to the shape of the underlying bolt head fitting.
Couple more plugs that I wrapped after the old stuff was toast. I also covered the root of the plug, where the wire enters to keep any moisture out. The original tape job didn't/couldn't do that.
Relocated IAT.
#20
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?sesn...&catnum=112
Here is another source, just search under "self fusing tape". Longer rolls and a choice of tapered or straight.
Here is another source, just search under "self fusing tape". Longer rolls and a choice of tapered or straight.