Building Up My Fd, Looking For Any Suggestions....
08-25-2003, 02:43 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: florida
Posts: 154
Originally Posted by rx7machine' date='Aug 25 2003, 10:54 AM
Yea, I think I'm also going to go with the HKS twin power ign. Hey, snook, what are your mods?
Pettit 3mm mild streetported engine
ntech intake, full exhaust with midpipe, supra fuel pump, pettit unlimited boost ecu, 10mm magnecore plug wires with all 9s for plugs, non sequential (not full) @ 11psi.
I believe you can take a totally stock 7 and put on a good cold air intake, full exhaust and maintain the boost at 10psi and run 12s in the 1/4 mile. They are just quick cars!
08-25-2003, 03:02 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,550
just run the atkins 2mm seals.. they'll be fine to 550 and for the $ you save on the ceramics you can afford your twin power.
i have a Used light weight FD flywheel that i'll let go if you want to save some $ it weighs 6kgs (13.2lbs) with the counter balencer on it. not sure who it's made by but its in pretty damn nice condition and it comes with the counter balencer. PM me if your interested
i have a Used light weight FD flywheel that i'll let go if you want to save some $ it weighs 6kgs (13.2lbs) with the counter balencer on it. not sure who it's made by but its in pretty damn nice condition and it comes with the counter balencer. PM me if your interested
08-25-2003, 09:54 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: NC
Posts: 3,269
Well, I have a M2 airbox and a C's short shifter right now. I have the Racing Beat dual tip exhaust and waiting on M2 dp. I have some other things.. and should be getting more once i get the money.. I'm hoping to run 11's.
08-26-2003, 07:56 AM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Northern California
Posts: 13
dragon: Thanks for the offer on the Fly Wheel, but I really like that Exedy unit so I am going with that. I'll check with the engine builder and see what he really thinks for this build on the seals.
I take it from the lack of responses that everything on the list looks good. I am trying to build a car that will perform good on the track but can still launch a good 1/4. This car will be driven on the street, but is going to spend alot of time on the track and possibly sometime down the road, become a track only car. As soon as the engine build is done and I get the car back it is getting some good racing seats with harness (not sure which ones yet) and a full M2 roll cage.
I didn't list guages but of course they will be added. Probably on the pillar.
So if you were building up your car and wanted it done right the first time, what would you add or change to the list. Anyone?
I take it from the lack of responses that everything on the list looks good. I am trying to build a car that will perform good on the track but can still launch a good 1/4. This car will be driven on the street, but is going to spend alot of time on the track and possibly sometime down the road, become a track only car. As soon as the engine build is done and I get the car back it is getting some good racing seats with harness (not sure which ones yet) and a full M2 roll cage.
I didn't list guages but of course they will be added. Probably on the pillar.
So if you were building up your car and wanted it done right the first time, what would you add or change to the list. Anyone?
08-26-2003, 11:06 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,550
Originally Posted by neomicro' date='Aug 26 2003, 04:56 AM
So if you were building up your car and wanted it done right the first time?
Make sure if you actually pay for ceramic seals you actually get them... But it is my feeling that they are a big waste of $ that could go to other things like water injection that will definitly help make the motor last longer. It's a much better idea to stop detonation than it is to try and make it not blow up during detonation.