Alright Im Posting My Problem
06-07-2004, 08:51 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: union, new jersey
Posts: 8,079
well, i said idle screw because he said his idle is steady and its low..... then i suggested plugs because of the backfire he is experiencing and he was talking to me about his engine being flooded a couple of days ago.
what can i say, i like giving random thoughts
what can i say, i like giving random thoughts
06-07-2004, 08:54 PM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,850
yea me alt cant be bad, im putting out a constant 14.1 volts even under electrical load, and now when i flip my lights up its only about 100 RPM more which , i hear , is normal. now the only thing i dont get is why my car drops that low to almost a stall after i tap the acc. then let off.
06-07-2004, 10:51 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 276
sounds like your Idle Control Solenoid (ISC) is faulty man. The ISC is adjusted by the ECU as it encounters variations in electrical loads, i.e. A/c, lights. I had the same problem...my ISC was sticking either OPEN or CLOSED. Whenever i turned on my a/c or lights, the idle would SOAR to 2500 and bounce from 3k-2500 because the ISC wasnt gradually opening, but slamming open and closed. And when it came down in the RPM range to idle it would almost stall and sometimes die because the ISC was stuck closed. A quick way to see if that's the culprit is to just unplug it and see if the problem stops. (you might have to mess with the screw on the front of the TB to keep ur idle up though)
Good luck! idles are a bitch
-Zach
EDIT: ive been running without an ISC for a year now. 600rpm idle when cold, 900rpm warm, like clockwork. when u turn on the a/c it goes to ~500-600 and is kinda boggy....but ya get used to it
Good luck! idles are a bitch
-Zach
EDIT: ive been running without an ISC for a year now. 600rpm idle when cold, 900rpm warm, like clockwork. when u turn on the a/c it goes to ~500-600 and is kinda boggy....but ya get used to it
06-08-2004, 12:42 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dover DE
Posts: 989
Do a diagnostics scan of the ECU and see if there are any of the sensors giving you a problem.
The Idle controller will not set a hard code (light stays on all the time) but will set what is called a soft code, that is stored in the memory.
Under the hood there is a diagnostics port, using a paperclip or a small piece of wire jumper terminals 10 and GRND then turn the ignition on so the warning ligts come on, then look at the engine light, it will flash a series of codes, post up the codes you have, and your e-mail and I will send you the diagnostic trobleshooting for those codes.
The Idle controller will not set a hard code (light stays on all the time) but will set what is called a soft code, that is stored in the memory.
Under the hood there is a diagnostics port, using a paperclip or a small piece of wire jumper terminals 10 and GRND then turn the ignition on so the warning ligts come on, then look at the engine light, it will flash a series of codes, post up the codes you have, and your e-mail and I will send you the diagnostic trobleshooting for those codes.
06-08-2004, 01:13 PM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,850
alright i just gave it a quick test drive ... the cars first gear felt fine .. when i got into second the car fell flat on its face at like 2k rpm but boost continued to go up even though im only on it like half throttle ... 2-5 all accelerated very slowly ... what is the deal
