Air Pump Removal (fd)
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 568
I took a C4 vette electric air pump and wired it in using some of the fuel pump (speed) circuit.
Haltech switches the pump ON at 800rpm and OFF at 3000rpms. Haltech splices into the stock ECU connector that sends the fuel pump high signal. I picked up the signal in the front relay box and ran 12V switched and the pump ON signal over the the stock battery location, where a relay sends 12V to the fuel pump resistor, which powers the pump at 9V, so it won't burn up.
The pump inlet is run under my IC and has a breather filter...
the outlet runs under the AC compressor and into the split air tube.
Oh, wait this is a removal thread
Haltech switches the pump ON at 800rpm and OFF at 3000rpms. Haltech splices into the stock ECU connector that sends the fuel pump high signal. I picked up the signal in the front relay box and ran 12V switched and the pump ON signal over the the stock battery location, where a relay sends 12V to the fuel pump resistor, which powers the pump at 9V, so it won't burn up.
The pump inlet is run under my IC and has a breather filter...
the outlet runs under the AC compressor and into the split air tube.
Oh, wait this is a removal thread
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,725
From: La Plata, Maryland
Originally Posted by DUB' date='Jan 25 2005, 06:44 AM
I took a C4 vette electric air pump and wired it in using some of the fuel pump (speed) circuit.
Haltech switches the pump ON at 800rpm and OFF at 3000rpms. Haltech splices into the stock ECU connector that sends the fuel pump high signal. I picked up the signal in the front relay box and ran 12V switched and the pump ON signal over the the stock battery location, where a relay sends 12V to the fuel pump resistor, which powers the pump at 9V, so it won't burn up.
The pump inlet is run under my IC and has a breather filter...
the outlet runs under the AC compressor and into the split air tube.
Oh, wait this is a removal thread
Haltech switches the pump ON at 800rpm and OFF at 3000rpms. Haltech splices into the stock ECU connector that sends the fuel pump high signal. I picked up the signal in the front relay box and ran 12V switched and the pump ON signal over the the stock battery location, where a relay sends 12V to the fuel pump resistor, which powers the pump at 9V, so it won't burn up.
The pump inlet is run under my IC and has a breather filter...
the outlet runs under the AC compressor and into the split air tube.
Oh, wait this is a removal thread
I'm pretty sure Wargasm (Brian) did the same thing with his car.
Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 36
From: jacksonville,fl
Originally Posted by DUB' date='Jan 25 2005, 10:53 AM
yes i did
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 568
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Jan 25 2005, 12:01 PM
except his is only used for testing...and was hooked up with a toggle switch to the battery (ON/OFF), the pump was zip tied in his bay. His pump will burn up, at least that's what he told me, if left on.
I took it to the next level
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,725
From: La Plata, Maryland
Originally Posted by DUB' date='Jan 25 2005, 08:45 AM
except his is only used for testing...and was hooked up with a toggle switch to the battery (ON/OFF), the pump was zip tied in his bay. His pump will burn up, at least that's what he told me, if left on.
I took it to the next level operating as if STOCK.
I took it to the next level
rock on with your bad self.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,436
From: Disclaimer: posts made after 11AM are most likely alcohol induced. Please disregard unless very funn
removing some of those solonoids may cause the ECU to go into "limp mode" unless you are running and aftermarket ECu or use resistors to trick the stock one. As soon as i get my laptop fixed (tommorrow i hope) i give you a walk-thru on removing them
