rx7machine

No problem man.

ccarlisi

Bodykits make the FD look cheap. You have a car with a $40,000 MSRP. Why are you trying to imitate modded FWD econo boxes? The shape of the stock body is very european. None of the aftermarket kits compliment it very well and it's probably because they have the same econobox frame of reference. Put a wider set of wheels on it and spend your money under the hood.



-back to your question I would add water injection to the list. It only runs about $300 and it will give you some added protection and/or the ability to run more boost.

ccarlisi

[quote=SPOautos' date='Mar 25 2003, 01:07 PM] Interesting. What do you base this on? -not doubting you just curious.

RotaryNoah

I think that you have done good sop far with a good with your porformance parts. I think that your cosmetic parts are fine too. I think a tuned FD can use the complament of a body kit if it looks nice and no to busy. The FD has a smooth Clean look and a body kit with the same look. I think can Improve.

back to your post though

I think you could use some new apex seals before your gonna crank that much hp, especially running the boost yourll need. IF you have the Fuel and Boost and its set up properlly, you can run alot of hp.

good luck tuning . And i think that as long as your fd tuning has a certain style and safistication and is done nicely it can look great (body tuning that is)

-Noah

ccarlisi

for the love of god edit more carefully

SPOautos

Hmm, well I didnt really mean my post as flaming you so I'm sorry if you took mine as being like that.



There is nothing wrong with body kits, I'm not a fan of them really but if you like them its your money and car do what you want with it. The only reason I mentioned that stuff is your post was asking how to get 400rwhp reliably and in your list of mods to do this you mentioned cosmetic body kit stuff. That stuff is not going to get you anywhere in terms of making your car fast or giving you 400rwhp. Most of those parts are not going to reduce enought weight to matter. The cf hood might save you 5lbs as the stock one is EXTREMELY light. I dont know about the bumper but someone mentioned earlier that the one your looking at its acutally heavier so that negates the 5lbs from the hood. If you have side skirts and spoilers and all that, its acutally going to add weight, which really isnt a big deal, its not adding much. BUT, its not helping anything either.



I mentioned the IC because I didnt see it in the list, it was kinda off to the side. As for someone saying the egt is important, its really not. The wideband is MUCH MUCH MUCH more usefull than a egt. If you know your a/f is in order and your running the proper timing for your boost levels then the egt's arent that big a deal.



ccarlisi - I got that info from an engine builder down in FL then I tested it out with some engines me and a friend tore down and rebuilt. Any engines that have over 50K miles you can snap the seals in your hands, but when they are brand new they are MUCH MUCH harder to break, you'd have to hit them with a hammer. Also, the 2mm Hurley seals are weak as hell, I can snap a brand new one by holding it in my hand like a baseball bat and pressing it with my thumb real hard....they are total junk for a turbo car. Thier 3mm on the other hand are real hard but dont seal well.



STEPHEN

NathansRex

so when its time to rebuild, i was thinking of 3mm apex seals with a street port, or would a bridge port be better?

NathansRex

by the way i do agree SPOautos comment that a body kit can be tasteful if done properly as long as it does not look too busy.



tx

nathan

Silver Ninety Three

I think all the mods he needs to get 400 rwhp has been covered. If your target hp is around 400, then some BNR stage 3 turbos would work well. They are based on the stock turbos so you don't need any of the custom fitting often required for a single turbo kit. They are also moderately priced compared to a single turbo kit. Shoot me a pm if you are interested.

twinturborx7pete

i wouldn't do the 3mm apex seals.. its a lot of money for something that isn't really proven to do anything better than the stock 2mm apex seals... most/all rotary race engines that are making serious power are still using 2mm apex seals.. but that is a whole nother argument...