Installing a downpipe
04-25-2002, 08:40 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 9
Is installing a downpipe as easy as I think it is. I use to have and M3 and the straight pipe was as easy as 8 bolts from under the car. Is this as easy as a 93 rx7. How hard is it from under the car. Thanks everyone
04-25-2002, 09:45 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,981
it's really not that hard, just annoying due to lack of room. First thing to do is take off the heat shields around the ABS pump, this will give you more room to work. After that take out the O2 sensor. ther are 4 bolts holding the stock pre-cat to the turbos. 2 from the top, 2 from the bottom. I would suggest soaking the nuts with wd-40 every night for a few nights before you do the job. The studs have a bad habit of snapping, and you don't want that.
Any more questions just ask...
Any more questions just ask...
12-15-2002, 11:03 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Wi nøt trei a høliday in Sweden this yër?
Posts: 1,113
i am in the process of installing my M2 downpipe. after ******* around with the pre-cat/main-cat flange (which is threaded, BTW...), it took me ~5 minutes to get the downpipe over the studs on the turbo side. only the front two studs on the turbo side came out, the rear two didn't come out. and after getting the downpipe on and the front two studs and bolts on and tightened, i started on the bottom rear stud. the stud is too long for me to get the nut on.
i've read of people recommending to replace all 4 studs with new bolts. i couldn't get a sawzall up in there to shorten the bottom rear stud, so i think i'm going to have to replace them.
MAKE SURE TO SOAK ALL STUDS/BOLTS/NUTS that you will be working with. it took me most of the day to drill out the two rusted studs on the pre-cat to main-cat flange. of course i didn't take the main cat out, i had to do all the work underneath the car.
i didn't bother taking any of the heat shields off, though i'm sure it would make it easier to work in there.
you will have to remove most of the hoses running from the rear of the airbox to get in there and see what you're doing.
if you haven't done a hose job yet, look around for cracked or split vacuum hoses. i found two cracked lines right above the turbos.
does anyone know what size of bolt you will need to replace the studs on the turbo side?
i've read of people recommending to replace all 4 studs with new bolts. i couldn't get a sawzall up in there to shorten the bottom rear stud, so i think i'm going to have to replace them.
MAKE SURE TO SOAK ALL STUDS/BOLTS/NUTS that you will be working with. it took me most of the day to drill out the two rusted studs on the pre-cat to main-cat flange. of course i didn't take the main cat out, i had to do all the work underneath the car.
i didn't bother taking any of the heat shields off, though i'm sure it would make it easier to work in there.
you will have to remove most of the hoses running from the rear of the airbox to get in there and see what you're doing.
if you haven't done a hose job yet, look around for cracked or split vacuum hoses. i found two cracked lines right above the turbos.
does anyone know what size of bolt you will need to replace the studs on the turbo side?
12-29-2002, 07:30 PM
#6
Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 63
Originally Posted by JimmyJimboJet' date='Dec 15 2002, 09:03 PM
i am in the process of installing my M2 downpipe. after ******* around with the pre-cat/main-cat flange (which is threaded, BTW...), it took me ~5 minutes to get the downpipe over the studs on the turbo side. only the front two studs on the turbo side came out, the rear two didn't come out. and after getting the downpipe on and the front two studs and bolts on and tightened, i started on the bottom rear stud. the stud is too long for me to get the nut on.
i've read of people recommending to replace all 4 studs with new bolts. i couldn't get a sawzall up in there to shorten the bottom rear stud, so i think i'm going to have to replace them.
MAKE SURE TO SOAK ALL STUDS/BOLTS/NUTS that you will be working with. it took me most of the day to drill out the two rusted studs on the pre-cat to main-cat flange. of course i didn't take the main cat out, i had to do all the work underneath the car.
i didn't bother taking any of the heat shields off, though i'm sure it would make it easier to work in there.
you will have to remove most of the hoses running from the rear of the airbox to get in there and see what you're doing.
if you haven't done a hose job yet, look around for cracked or split vacuum hoses. i found two cracked lines right above the turbos.
does anyone know what size of bolt you will need to replace the studs on the turbo side?
i've read of people recommending to replace all 4 studs with new bolts. i couldn't get a sawzall up in there to shorten the bottom rear stud, so i think i'm going to have to replace them.
MAKE SURE TO SOAK ALL STUDS/BOLTS/NUTS that you will be working with. it took me most of the day to drill out the two rusted studs on the pre-cat to main-cat flange. of course i didn't take the main cat out, i had to do all the work underneath the car.
i didn't bother taking any of the heat shields off, though i'm sure it would make it easier to work in there.
you will have to remove most of the hoses running from the rear of the airbox to get in there and see what you're doing.
if you haven't done a hose job yet, look around for cracked or split vacuum hoses. i found two cracked lines right above the turbos.
does anyone know what size of bolt you will need to replace the studs on the turbo side?
By the way, the bolt that you want to use on the exhaust flange would be a M10-1.5 x 25mm LG Socket Head Cap Screw. You also need a 8mm Hex Socket to tight it.
12-30-2002, 12:46 AM
#8
Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 63
Originally Posted by Dumbrotorkid' date='Dec 29 2002, 09:21 PM
if u couldnt get it connected to the cat i found it easiest to disconnect my cat back then get it together.dont tighten all the bolts to the turbo/dp.make sure theres a little play in it then pray.
12-30-2002, 05:16 PM
#10
Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 63
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Dec 30 2002, 02:05 PM
It is so much easier just to take the entire exhaust off then trying to squezze the DP into place.