Is installing a downpipe as easy as I think it is. I use to have and M3 and the straight pipe was as easy as 8 bolts from under the car. Is this as easy as a 93 rx7. How hard is it from under the car. Thanks everyone

it's really not that hard, just annoying due to lack of room. First thing to do is take off the heat shields around the ABS pump, this will give you more room to work. After that take out the O2 sensor. ther are 4 bolts holding the stock pre-cat to the turbos. 2 from the top, 2 from the bottom. I would suggest soaking the nuts with wd-40 every night for a few nights before you do the job. The studs have a bad habit of snapping, and you don't want that.

Any more questions just ask... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

i bought my dp through rx-7store.net and it was the biggest pain in my ass.

i had to dremel the bolt holes on their 189dollar mildsteel dp.i guess the sayin is true.u get wat u pay for

I have the M2 downpipe to install this winter. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Tom

i am in the process of installing my M2 downpipe. after ******* around with the pre-cat/main-cat flange (which is threaded, BTW...), it took me ~5 minutes to get the downpipe over the studs on the turbo side. only the front two studs on the turbo side came out, the rear two didn't come out. and after getting the downpipe on and the front two studs and bolts on and tightened, i started on the bottom rear stud. the stud is too long for me to get the nut on.



i've read of people recommending to replace all 4 studs with new bolts. i couldn't get a sawzall up in there to shorten the bottom rear stud, so i think i'm going to have to replace them.



MAKE SURE TO SOAK ALL STUDS/BOLTS/NUTS that you will be working with. it took me most of the day to drill out the two rusted studs on the pre-cat to main-cat flange. of course i didn't take the main cat out, i had to do all the work underneath the car.



i didn't bother taking any of the heat shields off, though i'm sure it would make it easier to work in there.



you will have to remove most of the hoses running from the rear of the airbox to get in there and see what you're doing.



if you haven't done a hose job yet, look around for cracked or split vacuum hoses. i found two cracked lines right above the turbos.



does anyone know what size of bolt you will need to replace the studs on the turbo side?

I am in the process of replacing a DP. For what the problems I have encountered with my M2 copy DP, I think this is a pain in the ass job. First there is a interference issue on the nut to the downpipe, the pipe is welded to close to the bolt hole which cause the nut to press against it when I started to tight the nut. I end up buying some stainless steel socket head bolt with a lock washer to replace the stud and nut. I have to file down the weldment betweem the pipe and the flange to clear the interference problem. After that I thought it will bolt right on, but the bolt hole on the other end of the pipe never match up with the Cata Converter nut. I call the guy who sold me the pipe and he told me he never had a problem like this before. Maybe I am the unlucky guy, I guess it is true that you got what you pay for. I will try to get a replacement from that guy or go for a M2 or Petit one. I am so disappointed about this downpipe.



By the way, the bolt that you want to use on the exhaust flange would be a M10-1.5 x 25mm LG Socket Head Cap Screw. You also need a 8mm Hex Socket to tight it.

if u couldnt get it connected to the cat i found it easiest to disconnect my cat back then get it together.dont tighten all the bolts to the turbo/dp.make sure theres a little play in it then pray.

Do you have experience on this issue too? So you recommend me to disconnect the cat back exhuast and let the Cat Converter by itself and connect the DP?

It is so much easier just to take the entire exhaust off then trying to squezze the DP into place.

Thanks for everyone commends, I will try to do it on Wed so I can get my car running again. Wish me luck