Update On My Car With Vid Clips Of It
10-05-2003, 11:05 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: RBWH
Posts: 478
The ticking noise from the bac has stopped, I fixed the coolant leak, and the power steering buzz comes and goes still but seems to be better. I'm still overheating at idle. Upper radiator hose does get hot just fine which I believe indicates the thermostat is opening. The car warms up just fine and doesn't take super long or anything. And now I have some weird squeak when I accelerate. You'll hear it in the vids. Kinda weird maybe someone has heard it. Not sure if it's the exhaust rubbing or what. I haven't pinpointed the sound yet.
http://home.earthlink.net/~rotorballs/data/MOV01379.MPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~rotorballs/data/MOV01380.MPG
http://members.***.net/gonzilla/MOV01383.MPG
http://members.***.net/gonzilla/MOV01384.MPG
http://members.***.net/gonzilla/MOV01385.MPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~rotorballs/data/MOV01379.MPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~rotorballs/data/MOV01380.MPG
http://members.***.net/gonzilla/MOV01383.MPG
http://members.***.net/gonzilla/MOV01384.MPG
http://members.***.net/gonzilla/MOV01385.MPG
10-05-2003, 11:55 PM
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 3,097
Try putting the fan shroud back on, and that may help with overheating. Also, do you have the OE thermostat in the car? How is your timing?
I don't know what the squeaking could be, have you looked under the car to see if anything could be rubbing? Where does the squeaking come from?
I don't know what the squeaking could be, have you looked under the car to see if anything could be rubbing? Where does the squeaking come from?
10-06-2003, 12:02 AM
#3
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yeah gonna put the fan shroud back on, the thermostat was replaced when I put the rebuild in. I'm gonna need someone to give it gas while I look under the car to see if it's rubbing. Only thing is when I rev it at idle it doesn't always make the noise and it's harder to come by. When driving it's pretty constant with the foot down on the pedal. I haven't timed it yet...I know I need to, but I've never timed a car before and not sure exactly how to go about it
10-06-2003, 12:12 AM
#4
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Settng the timing is real easy. Do you own a hayes manual? If not, I'd recomend picking on up. Also you can view the FSM on http://www.fc3s.org/, it is under HOW-TO'S. Also, as much as I hate using the "s" word, you can try doing a search on this site about setting the timing.
What exhaust do you have on your car? Just curious.
What exhaust do you have on your car? Just curious.
10-06-2003, 12:16 AM
#5
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Location: Pimp'n ain't E-Z! But driving ur FD makes it easier!
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I have only watched the first vid..damn dial up...but first off, ur car looks good..like the front end...secondly, y does it take so long to start running and it keeps stalling..was it cold and u dont have emissions? Perhaps timing is still off?? dunno..let me watch the other vids...
10-06-2003, 12:18 AM
#6
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The engine isn't broken in yet...it's flooding when I kill the ignition still. Don't bother downloading the first two...they're pretty worthless
The exhaust is the mazdatrix dual racing beat set up. I've got the haynes but it's not real informative. all it says is to line up the yellow dot with the pointer thing lol I don't see any yellow dot
The exhaust is the mazdatrix dual racing beat set up. I've got the haynes but it's not real informative. all it says is to line up the yellow dot with the pointer thing lol I don't see any yellow dot
10-06-2003, 12:27 AM
#7
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fyi for those who don't know
background info:
Just put a rebuild in, TII housings, s5 rotors, street port, mazda trix true dual exh, act 4 puck, blocked off omp, blocked off the EGR valve, removed air pump...hmm I think that about covers it. After a slew of problems, I fix one and two more pop up.
The first launch after backing out in that vid were a little tough. Almost stalled it a couple times. The act 4 puck is a tough bastard
background info:
Just put a rebuild in, TII housings, s5 rotors, street port, mazda trix true dual exh, act 4 puck, blocked off omp, blocked off the EGR valve, removed air pump...hmm I think that about covers it. After a slew of problems, I fix one and two more pop up.
The first launch after backing out in that vid were a little tough. Almost stalled it a couple times. The act 4 puck is a tough bastard
10-06-2003, 12:29 AM
#8
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Location: Pimp'n ain't E-Z! But driving ur FD makes it easier!
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Lol..well i just finished the second one,lol.
Well, i dont know what that knocking is personally...i'll watch the other vids and see if i cant figure it out.
BTW, u using the stock main pulleys? there should be a red dot and a yellow dot..
Well, i dont know what that knocking is personally...i'll watch the other vids and see if i cant figure it out.
BTW, u using the stock main pulleys? there should be a red dot and a yellow dot..
10-06-2003, 12:31 AM
#9
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Location: Lynnwood, WA
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your eccentric pulley should have 2 marks on it you will want to line up the farther clockwise one with the pointer, then pull out the CAS. line up the two marks on the CAS. Reinstall the CAS, and check timing with a timing light. Your idle needs to be at about 750 rpm when you check it with the light.