Tires?
07-16-2003, 09:20 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 1,801
you're right Rob, it is the base model.. I was referring to the sport model he is getting on the road which has 4 pistons
Mazda had the base in 86 & 87 I believe and just changed it to the SE in 88. The only difference I know of is the original 86 base had steel wheels and the SE had the phone dials.
Mazda had the base in 86 & 87 I believe and just changed it to the SE in 88. The only difference I know of is the original 86 base had steel wheels and the SE had the phone dials.
07-17-2003, 12:55 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 602
There is this car that's always at the autocross events. It's a late 80's Civic 4 door. It has 18's on it with little itty bitty brakes that are painted. Those drums on the back are barely larger than a fist. The drivers of that car have a good sense of humor and did this for a joke. They have the car sticker tuned with cheesey stickers as well just to go with the theme. They do well with this car. It's the chuckleheads that are convinced that 18's with baby brakes makes their car look better.
What is the rest of your suspension like? How much adjustability do you have? Swaybars? Coil-overs? Camber plates? Adjustable rear camber link? Etc? Camber should be adjusted for handling, but if you have any rubbing you do what you have to do. Sway bars help keep the car flat. Once I put mine in I noticed a lot less rubbing in the front. Rolling the front fenders helped a lot too. But my +30 offset is a bit wide so this might not really apply to you if you do your homework (unlike what I did
).
Going with a 5 lug conversion will give you a much better selection of wider wheels. With the right offset, you will have plenty of space in the rear for 245's. Something like a +35 8" rim in the back will be fine. Same offset for the front, but keep them to 225 or even 235. ARD T2 on the "other" forum seems to be the guru for FC wheel/tire fitments. Check with him before you start buying stuff if you aren't already 100% of any rubbing.
What is the rest of your suspension like? How much adjustability do you have? Swaybars? Coil-overs? Camber plates? Adjustable rear camber link? Etc? Camber should be adjusted for handling, but if you have any rubbing you do what you have to do. Sway bars help keep the car flat. Once I put mine in I noticed a lot less rubbing in the front. Rolling the front fenders helped a lot too. But my +30 offset is a bit wide so this might not really apply to you if you do your homework (unlike what I did
Going with a 5 lug conversion will give you a much better selection of wider wheels. With the right offset, you will have plenty of space in the rear for 245's. Something like a +35 8" rim in the back will be fine. Same offset for the front, but keep them to 225 or even 235. ARD T2 on the "other" forum seems to be the guru for FC wheel/tire fitments. Check with him before you start buying stuff if you aren't already 100% of any rubbing.
07-17-2003, 06:02 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 1,801
Originally Posted by Jerk_Racer' date='Jul 17 2003, 01:55 PM
There is this car that's always at the autocross events. It's a late 80's Civic 4 door. It has 18's on it with little itty bitty brakes that are painted. Those drums on the back are barely larger than a fist. The drivers of that car have a good sense of humor and did this for a joke. They have the car sticker tuned with cheesey stickers as well just to go with the theme. They do well with this car. It's the chuckleheads that are convinced that 18's with baby brakes makes their car look better.
What is the rest of your suspension like? How much adjustability do you have? Swaybars? Coil-overs? Camber plates? Adjustable rear camber link? Etc? Camber should be adjusted for handling, but if you have any rubbing you do what you have to do. Sway bars help keep the car flat. Once I put mine in I noticed a lot less rubbing in the front. Rolling the front fenders helped a lot too. But my +30 offset is a bit wide so this might not really apply to you if you do your homework (unlike what I did ).
Going with a 5 lug conversion will give you a much better selection of wider wheels. With the right offset, you will have plenty of space in the rear for 245's. Something like a +35 8" rim in the back will be fine. Same offset for the front, but keep them to 225 or even 235. ARD T2 on the "other" forum seems to be the guru for FC wheel/tire fitments. Check with him before you start buying stuff if you aren't already 100% of any rubbing.
What is the rest of your suspension like? How much adjustability do you have? Swaybars? Coil-overs? Camber plates? Adjustable rear camber link? Etc? Camber should be adjusted for handling, but if you have any rubbing you do what you have to do. Sway bars help keep the car flat. Once I put mine in I noticed a lot less rubbing in the front. Rolling the front fenders helped a lot too. But my +30 offset is a bit wide so this might not really apply to you if you do your homework (unlike what I did
Going with a 5 lug conversion will give you a much better selection of wider wheels. With the right offset, you will have plenty of space in the rear for 245's. Something like a +35 8" rim in the back will be fine. Same offset for the front, but keep them to 225 or even 235. ARD T2 on the "other" forum seems to be the guru for FC wheel/tire fitments. Check with him before you start buying stuff if you aren't already 100% of any rubbing.
Kind of off topic, I am happy with my current suspension and brake set up and I still have the 4 lug and single piston deal. My problem is that every year I've been changing too much on the car with not enough seat time and that is killing me. I finally have something that I'm getting used to and seems to be working well (right now): RB front sway bar, front and rear STB's, ES bushings, KYB AGX's, Eibach pro-kits (dont like), RB rear camber link, Hawk pads, Mazdatrix lines, Motul fluid, manual steering, weight reduction
I bought 17's to have something nice for the street compared to the stock 14" phone dials. I have kept the phone dials on the car though with Azenis since that is what I run for autocross and am barely street driving it. Next year I plan to get Tein front camber plates and GC sleeves with 450/325 Eibach's and do nothing else until the following year. My camber settings are -0.9 in the front (compensating for me in the car) and -0.5 in the rear. The toe is about as straight as he could get it. Also, keep in mind I have a lightened S4 base model.
My point is that if you're interested in racing, you should do one thing at a time and keep practicing.. need more seat time. Once I get used to my current set up, then hopefully I will pick up some time with the GC's, maybe some more camber, R tires and lighter/wider wheels, and maybe bigger brakes.
What do you recommend for alignment settings?
07-17-2003, 06:44 PM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 1,591
OK Ig you look at my SIGNATURe it says that I have an 88 SE that is becoming a parts car for my new 86 Sport. The sport it going to be my project bicth. Now I want wide tires out back and good handaling ones up front. What do you guys say size rims 17",18"s is 9" wide to wide for the back?
07-17-2003, 07:26 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 602
Sorry for the confusion FCmaniac, I just start typing and can't quite stop sometimes. I was trying to keep with RX7 13B 4 UR AZZ's original question.
9" in the back is fine. Some people even use 9.5" in the back, but that needs a spot on proper fitment. I'd stick with 17's as a maximum. Better tire choices. 8" is about all you can do up front. Even if you get those Corksport front fenders to have the same width tires all around if you want something such as 255/40/17 for example, you'll still have to remove the tires from the rims to rotate them front to rear. For the fronts wheels the offsets go into the teens while the rear stays about +35~+38. I forget what is a good offset when you use those fenders. I have yet to see anybody use them stateside. FWIW, they are knock-offs of BN Sports blister fenders over in Japan.
9" in the back is fine. Some people even use 9.5" in the back, but that needs a spot on proper fitment. I'd stick with 17's as a maximum. Better tire choices. 8" is about all you can do up front. Even if you get those Corksport front fenders to have the same width tires all around if you want something such as 255/40/17 for example, you'll still have to remove the tires from the rims to rotate them front to rear. For the fronts wheels the offsets go into the teens while the rear stays about +35~+38. I forget what is a good offset when you use those fenders. I have yet to see anybody use them stateside. FWIW, they are knock-offs of BN Sports blister fenders over in Japan.
08-17-2003, 07:47 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 602
245's are a no go for the front. Go with 225's on a +35 to a +38 8" rim up there. I have +30 up front with 225's and with the stock suspension it rubbed. The back can handle +35 and +38 with the 245's back there. I have +30 with 225's on 8" rims in the back and there is still plenty of space to go back there. You could go with 9" rears with 245's or 255's. That'd be just fine having a staggered front/rear setup.
It really depends on the rims you want and the possible offsets which are offered from the rim manufacturer.
It really depends on the rims you want and the possible offsets which are offered from the rim manufacturer.