So how can i be sure the TPS is Bad?
12-19-2009, 01:34 AM
#11
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If you're dealing with a rebuild and can't get the timing set, I would do the procedure for finding TDC and double check that the CAS is installed in correct position before buying more parts.
Also, I never had a bad TPS on any of my 2nd gens. Would they really give this bad a problem with startup and idle?
Maybe someone with a good running 2nd gen would be willing to go and disconnect their TPS to see how much it affects the startup and idle and report back the results?
Also, I never had a bad TPS on any of my 2nd gens. Would they really give this bad a problem with startup and idle?
Maybe someone with a good running 2nd gen would be willing to go and disconnect their TPS to see how much it affects the startup and idle and report back the results?
Yea, I've tried this process a number of times...
"leading notch on the e-shaft pulley aligned with the metal pin sticking out of the front cover for TDC,
take out the CAS and align the two notches with the blind cap off of the CAS,
place the CAS back in assuring the notches dont dissalign... yadda yahhda"
If i'm doing this right, then can i just assume that the timing is correctly set?
..................................
12-19-2009, 02:02 AM
#12
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and yes.... I am getting multiple codes,
and yes... the check engine light goes on and off every 5 seconds or so when it idles at anything lower than 1000 rpm, and very frequent bounces in idle as well
and yes... the check engine light goes on and off every 5 seconds or so when it idles at anything lower than 1000 rpm, and very frequent bounces in idle as well
12-19-2009, 02:23 PM
#13
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Ok, sounds like the CAS is in right. If you're really suspicious about the TPS, I think you should be able to monitor its output with the car running with a voltmeter at the EGI computer by backprobing the wire.
12-19-2009, 03:14 PM
#14
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12-24-2009, 07:48 PM
#16
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If one (or several) of the input sensors are reading wrong, the ecu just fattens the fuel and retards the timing to reduce the possible damage. It always amazed me how putting a sensor in a bag on a bench that worked perfectly fine prior to removal, suddenly can't pass a test when re-assembeled.
Are you getting multiple codes, engine light on and/or blinking?
Are you getting multiple codes, engine light on and/or blinking?
Alright, these are the codes its throwing:
9.....water temp sensor
25....solenoid valve (pressure regulator control (PRC))
31....solenoid valve (relief)
32....solenoid valve (switch)
34....solenoid valve (bypass air control (BAC))
42....duty solenoid (turbo boost pressure control)
now, given that i have all emissions/rats nest/idle control removed, is there anything else besides the water temp sensor that i should be worrying about? I also have electronic boost controller installed.
12-28-2009, 02:23 PM
#17
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Alright, these are the codes its throwing:
9.....water temp sensor
25....solenoid valve (pressure regulator control (PRC))
31....solenoid valve (relief)
32....solenoid valve (switch)
34....solenoid valve (bypass air control (BAC))
42....duty solenoid (turbo boost pressure control)
now, given that i have all emissions/rats nest/idle control removed, is there anything else besides the water temp sensor that i should be worrying about? I also have electronic boost controller installed.
9.....water temp sensor
25....solenoid valve (pressure regulator control (PRC))
31....solenoid valve (relief)
32....solenoid valve (switch)
34....solenoid valve (bypass air control (BAC))
42....duty solenoid (turbo boost pressure control)
now, given that i have all emissions/rats nest/idle control removed, is there anything else besides the water temp sensor that i should be worrying about? I also have electronic boost controller installed.
so it turns out, all i should really be worried about is the water temp sensor. everything else is normal for a new rebuild. Thanks for the advice er'body
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