Setting My Tps
#1
ok so i built my LED checker got my jumper wire, got the carm warmed up and was ready to do the TPS setting procedure.
i stand outside looking under the hood for 30-45 minutes looknig by the pass. side strut tower, in 0 degree weather, looking for this 3 prong green connector with one horizontal two vertical or whatever.
I FIND NONE.
i found 1 6-port connector with 3 avaiable connections but they all lay horizontal. then i found a 1-wire 1-slot green connector. but NO 3-wire 3-port connector.
so i figure wtf, ill go check the other side. on the other sid ei cant even find the 2 prong connector im supposed to jumper with a wire, again i find a ******* 1-wire 1-port green connector but thats it.
can someone ******* help me or tell me another way to set my tps other then "idle the car and play with the screw till it sounds good" cause when i do that the idle either shoots up and stays at 4k rpm at one extreme, or it does what its doing now, constantly revving from 1400-1800, drop back to 1400 and rev back to 1800.
please someone help!
kevin.
i stand outside looking under the hood for 30-45 minutes looknig by the pass. side strut tower, in 0 degree weather, looking for this 3 prong green connector with one horizontal two vertical or whatever.
I FIND NONE.
i found 1 6-port connector with 3 avaiable connections but they all lay horizontal. then i found a 1-wire 1-slot green connector. but NO 3-wire 3-port connector.
so i figure wtf, ill go check the other side. on the other sid ei cant even find the 2 prong connector im supposed to jumper with a wire, again i find a ******* 1-wire 1-port green connector but thats it.
can someone ******* help me or tell me another way to set my tps other then "idle the car and play with the screw till it sounds good" cause when i do that the idle either shoots up and stays at 4k rpm at one extreme, or it does what its doing now, constantly revving from 1400-1800, drop back to 1400 and rev back to 1800.
please someone help!
kevin.
#3
I don't know if this will help you at all because it sounds like yours just isn't there. I mean you are so familiar with the engine bay of an FC that you probably could not miss the connector.
I just went and looked again at my 87 GXL. The green connector at least on my car comes off of the front wiring harness that goes into the AFM. It branches off just before the harness continues up to the AFM. It is near the passenger side strut tower. But this is where you say you have been looking which leads me to believe it may have been cut off or removed somehow.
As far as setting the TPS, I have no faith in any other way, at least on my car for some reason, than setting it by just listening to the engine. When I set it according to the test lamp, the car wont stay running. Starts up great but then stalls. When I set it according to resistance on an ohm meter, it does the same thing. I don't know if something is fucked up or just peculiar to my car.
I wish this could be of more help but I have a feeling yours may be gone because it is pretty obvious in its location and like I said its not like you are some neophyte with this engine bay.
Hey at least I bumped up the thread so maybe more people will see it.
Sorry man,
Greg
I just went and looked again at my 87 GXL. The green connector at least on my car comes off of the front wiring harness that goes into the AFM. It branches off just before the harness continues up to the AFM. It is near the passenger side strut tower. But this is where you say you have been looking which leads me to believe it may have been cut off or removed somehow.
As far as setting the TPS, I have no faith in any other way, at least on my car for some reason, than setting it by just listening to the engine. When I set it according to the test lamp, the car wont stay running. Starts up great but then stalls. When I set it according to resistance on an ohm meter, it does the same thing. I don't know if something is fucked up or just peculiar to my car.
I wish this could be of more help but I have a feeling yours may be gone because it is pretty obvious in its location and like I said its not like you are some neophyte with this engine bay.
Hey at least I bumped up the thread so maybe more people will see it.
Sorry man,
Greg
#7
Originally Posted by teknics' date='Jan 20 2004, 09:39 PM
ok upon further inspection of the intraweb it seems our 2nd gen faq sections sucks one mean monkey dick and has incorrect info.
but any advice anyway let me know i guess.
kevni.
but any advice anyway let me know i guess.
kevni.
i found 1 6-port connector with 3 avaiable connections but they all lay horizontal. then i found a 1-wire 1-slot green connector. but NO 3-wire 3-port connector
S4
*|*
-*-
S5
*-*
-*-
Sorry for the crappy sketchs...
The * are just filler for spacing. The terminal at the top, is where you should hook the negative wire of your test lamp. The two connectors at the bottom are where you should connect the two positive wires of your test lamp.
#8
Unplug the TPS. On 89+ cars, you want to unplug the connector leading from the lower TPS.
· Hold the TPS connector so the hump points up. Connect your meter between top connection and rightmost connection.
· Adjust the stop screw until the meter reads 1K (1000 Ohms)
· Plug the TPS back in
· If necessary, reinstall the intercooler. Don’t overtighten the hose clamps
· Drive the car for a few minutes, then repeat the procedure
The green check connector is on the driver's side center of engine.
I personally use both. Adjust to 1K ohms, then check with the test connector.
The car can be cold as long as you take a screwdriver and hold the fast idle cam up so as the throttle is in the normal hot position.
Don't forget to have the key in the on position when checking the test connector.
· Hold the TPS connector so the hump points up. Connect your meter between top connection and rightmost connection.
· Adjust the stop screw until the meter reads 1K (1000 Ohms)
· Plug the TPS back in
· If necessary, reinstall the intercooler. Don’t overtighten the hose clamps
· Drive the car for a few minutes, then repeat the procedure
The green check connector is on the driver's side center of engine.
I personally use both. Adjust to 1K ohms, then check with the test connector.
The car can be cold as long as you take a screwdriver and hold the fast idle cam up so as the throttle is in the normal hot position.
Don't forget to have the key in the on position when checking the test connector.
#10
umm OKAY people pay attention,.
the connector to check the TPS adjustment is a 3-proing green connector BY THE OIL FILLER NECK.
none of this "by the strut tower" bullshit.
oh and it wasn't set properly but that wasnt actually the problem anyway.
kevin.
the connector to check the TPS adjustment is a 3-proing green connector BY THE OIL FILLER NECK.
none of this "by the strut tower" bullshit.
oh and it wasn't set properly but that wasnt actually the problem anyway.
kevin.