s4 6port question
09-24-2005, 12:36 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by teknics' post='761983' date='Sep 23 2005, 12:02 PM
yea thats what i was thinking of doing.
i noticed my one engine mount was split in half so im replacing that today, maybe ill **** with the 6port system.
n/as are intriguing, especially when youre used to the turbo motors.
wish i didnt have to keep the p/s and a/c (my g/f is planning on driving this car too, gotta leave it for her) because my t2's engine bay was so easy to work in without that crap.
kevin.
one or the other is fine, but both makes it a pain
09-24-2005, 12:55 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='762383' date='Sep 24 2005, 01:36 PM
one or the other is fine, but both makes it a pain
Doign the front cover gasket thing, with the motor in the car, and keeping A/C and P/S was a bitch. Plus i refused to empty my A/C so i left the compressor in the engine bay while doing all this and the lines connected
That acc. bracket is just frickin huge.
kevin.
09-24-2005, 04:00 PM
#14
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bleh, was trying to **** with the 6ports today after i replaced the motor mount, start revving the motor and found out coolant was coming up off the rear plate, where i tried capping off the coolant nipple (for the TB), so needless to say that ended the whole 6port focus thing and i dove back into "fix the stupid annoying problems" mode 
.
so hopefully monday i can do something 6port related.
kevin.
so hopefully monday i can do something 6port related.
kevin.
09-25-2005, 02:05 AM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Freeport FL
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teknics I believe the s4's ports are ran using a line to the cat right?
Back pressure from the cat
Well i dont have a cat, but the previous owner seems to have welded a fitting to the headers, downstream a bit, and run a line from that fitting to the rear port actuator.
Your 6PI is not opening then.
Baldy Some folks suggest putting a glob of grease or a paperclip on the actuator rods,
This is a good way to tell in a way :-/
then take it above 3800 rpm under load (supposedly doesn't work in neutral), and see if the grease or clip moved (indicating the rod sucked down into the actuator like it should). Also need to be sure the actuators and sleeves can operate freely, they can get stuck.
This is wrong. You can bring the car to 6 grand and they will never open it has nothing to do with it, that is why they do not open in neutral revving.
j9fd3s tee a boost guage into the 6 port line, and with the compressed air from the shop, see how many psi it takes for the actuators to move (should be like 2-3psi), then see if you get (2-3psi) when you're driving.
This is bad very bad, and wrong. The PI starts to open at 1.2psi and fully open at 2.1psi. Using compressed are will slam the actuators open braking them.
Back pressure from the cat
Well i dont have a cat, but the previous owner seems to have welded a fitting to the headers, downstream a bit, and run a line from that fitting to the rear port actuator.
Your 6PI is not opening then.
Baldy Some folks suggest putting a glob of grease or a paperclip on the actuator rods,
This is a good way to tell in a way :-/
then take it above 3800 rpm under load (supposedly doesn't work in neutral), and see if the grease or clip moved (indicating the rod sucked down into the actuator like it should). Also need to be sure the actuators and sleeves can operate freely, they can get stuck.
This is wrong. You can bring the car to 6 grand and they will never open it has nothing to do with it, that is why they do not open in neutral revving.
j9fd3s tee a boost guage into the 6 port line, and with the compressed air from the shop, see how many psi it takes for the actuators to move (should be like 2-3psi), then see if you get (2-3psi) when you're driving.
This is bad very bad, and wrong. The PI starts to open at 1.2psi and fully open at 2.1psi. Using compressed are will slam the actuators open braking them.
09-25-2005, 10:18 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by iceblue' post='762588' date='Sep 25 2005, 12:05 AM
j9fd3s tee a boost guage into the 6 port line, and with the compressed air from the shop, see how many psi it takes for the actuators to move (should be like 2-3psi), then see if you get (2-3psi) when you're driving.
This is bad very bad, and wrong. The PI starts to open at 1.2psi and fully open at 2.1psi. Using compressed are will slam the actuators open braking them.
that's why they make adjustable regulators and cheater valves for air compressors, you can dial down the pressure to nothing more than the psi of a gnat fart if you need to.
09-25-2005, 10:26 AM
#17
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Location: Wayne, NJ
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Originally Posted by iceblue' post='762588' date='Sep 25 2005, 03:05 AM
teknics I believe the s4's ports are ran using a line to the cat right?
Back pressure from the cat
Well i dont have a cat, but the previous owner seems to have welded a fitting to the headers, downstream a bit, and run a line from that fitting to the rear port actuator.
Your 6PI is not opening then.
Baldy Some folks suggest putting a glob of grease or a paperclip on the actuator rods,
This is a good way to tell in a way :-/
then take it above 3800 rpm under load (supposedly doesn't work in neutral), and see if the grease or clip moved (indicating the rod sucked down into the actuator like it should). Also need to be sure the actuators and sleeves can operate freely, they can get stuck.
This is wrong. You can bring the car to 6 grand and they will never open it has nothing to do with it, that is why they do not open in neutral revving.
j9fd3s tee a boost guage into the 6 port line, and with the compressed air from the shop, see how many psi it takes for the actuators to move (should be like 2-3psi), then see if you get (2-3psi) when you're driving.
This is bad very bad, and wrong. The PI starts to open at 1.2psi and fully open at 2.1psi. Using compressed are will slam the actuators open braking them.
you remind me of reted.
1) Yes i know it operated via back pressure from the cat.
2) I have now determined my 6PI is operating, and working nicely with the line and fitting that is run to my header.
3)n/a
4) Baldy specifically stated "3800rpm under load (supposedly doesnt work in neutral)" and then you come in and say "this is wrong you can rev to 6k and it wont do anything, you cant see it open in neutral." Duh, that is exactl what baldy just said. "3800rpm under load" means like driving around and hitting 3800rpm, not just revving the motor.
5) J9 said to use a boost gauge, and the use of a regulator is only amazingly obvious, especially since my shops air is 180psi and hes telling me to use around 2psi, obviously a regulator is needed.
thanks for um...your intended help?
kevin.
09-25-2005, 01:58 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by iceblue' post='762588' date='Sep 25 2005, 03:05 AM
Your 6PI is not opening then.
Sure they are, go look. I have. They open. With a header and no cat. Yes.
This is a good way to tell in a way :-/
Yeah it is, do you fully understand what he is suggesting?
This is wrong. You can bring the car to 6 grand and they will never open it has nothing to do with it, that is why they do not open in neutral revving.
It is not wrong. They are capable of opening with no load, have you really tried it? I have. Numerous times. And they will do it, unless you have some kind of problem.
This is bad very bad, and wrong. The PI starts to open at 1.2psi and fully open at 2.1psi. Using compressed are will slam the actuators open braking them.
No, this is not bad, or wrong. I've done this, and it works, and not only did nothing break, nothing was wrong. Oh I used a regulator though, which is common sense.
09-25-2005, 10:19 PM
#20
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ColinRX7 Sure they are, go look. I have. They open. With a header and no cat. Yes.
Some systems do provide enough back pressure to the split air pipe when setup without the cat but very few.
Yeah it is, do you fully understand what he is suggesting?
I did not know it required rocket science
It is not wrong. They are capable of opening with no load, have you really tried it? I have. Numerous times. And they will do it, unless you have some kind of problem.
Then you have something wrong. Just driving your car around past even 4k means nothing to them coming on, it sully requires 1.2psi to 2.1 to fully operate weather your at 2krpm on load or 5k they will open when this psi is reached and no other times. If you rev it and get that much pressure you are defiantly building up a lot more pressure then normal. That is like saying my turbo is spooling in neutral so I must be making boost.
No, this is not bad, or wrong. I've done this, and it works, and not only did nothing break, nothing was wrong. Oh I used a regulator though, which is common sense.
Yes it is bad without a regulator dropping the pressure down. If you don’t state to do so someone reading may not know bettor slam there actuators open and bust the diaphragms.
teknics 4) Baldy specifically stated "3800rpm under load (supposedly doesnt work in neutral)" and then you come in and say "this is wrong you can rev to 6k and it wont do anything, you cant see it open in neutral." Duh, that is exactl what baldy just said. "3800rpm under load" means like driving around and hitting 3800rpm, not just revving the motor.
No you miss read what I stated. Baldy specifically stated 3.8krpm and that is wrong there is no guaranty they come on at 3.8k they can come on at 2 or 5 or 6 it is load to psi related the only thing that happens at 3.8k is the secondary injectors.
5) J9 said to use a boost gauge, and the use of a regulator is only amazingly obvious, especially since my shops air is 180psi and he’s telling me to use around 2psi, obviously a regulator is needed.
You would be surprised how many people would not bring this to there thought process.
Some systems do provide enough back pressure to the split air pipe when setup without the cat but very few.
Yeah it is, do you fully understand what he is suggesting?
I did not know it required rocket science
It is not wrong. They are capable of opening with no load, have you really tried it? I have. Numerous times. And they will do it, unless you have some kind of problem.
Then you have something wrong. Just driving your car around past even 4k means nothing to them coming on, it sully requires 1.2psi to 2.1 to fully operate weather your at 2krpm on load or 5k they will open when this psi is reached and no other times. If you rev it and get that much pressure you are defiantly building up a lot more pressure then normal. That is like saying my turbo is spooling in neutral so I must be making boost.
No, this is not bad, or wrong. I've done this, and it works, and not only did nothing break, nothing was wrong. Oh I used a regulator though, which is common sense.
Yes it is bad without a regulator dropping the pressure down. If you don’t state to do so someone reading may not know bettor slam there actuators open and bust the diaphragms.
teknics 4) Baldy specifically stated "3800rpm under load (supposedly doesnt work in neutral)" and then you come in and say "this is wrong you can rev to 6k and it wont do anything, you cant see it open in neutral." Duh, that is exactl what baldy just said. "3800rpm under load" means like driving around and hitting 3800rpm, not just revving the motor.
No you miss read what I stated. Baldy specifically stated 3.8krpm and that is wrong there is no guaranty they come on at 3.8k they can come on at 2 or 5 or 6 it is load to psi related the only thing that happens at 3.8k is the secondary injectors.
5) J9 said to use a boost gauge, and the use of a regulator is only amazingly obvious, especially since my shops air is 180psi and he’s telling me to use around 2psi, obviously a regulator is needed.
You would be surprised how many people would not bring this to there thought process.