s4 6port question
09-21-2005, 12:58 PM
#1
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ok so i have an 88 n/a.
has a reman motor, RB header, no emissions, no airpump, no cat, no bac, basically anything removable (except ps and ac) is gone.
so i bought the car this way. Never owned an n/a, never looked at n/a, so i dont understand the 6 ports very well.
I believe the s4's ports are ran using a line to the cat right? Well i dont have a cat, but the previous owner seems to have welded a fitting to the headers, downstream a bit, and run a line from that fitting to the rear port actuator.
does this even work? the cars not roadworthy at the moment (no driveshaft or front diff mount) but i can turn it on etc, runs fine, but havent been able to drive it up to 4500rpms to see what power feels like, plus since im used to my t2 i dunno if id realize it as a problem or as it just being slow.
kevin.
has a reman motor, RB header, no emissions, no airpump, no cat, no bac, basically anything removable (except ps and ac) is gone.
so i bought the car this way. Never owned an n/a, never looked at n/a, so i dont understand the 6 ports very well.
I believe the s4's ports are ran using a line to the cat right? Well i dont have a cat, but the previous owner seems to have welded a fitting to the headers, downstream a bit, and run a line from that fitting to the rear port actuator.
does this even work? the cars not roadworthy at the moment (no driveshaft or front diff mount) but i can turn it on etc, runs fine, but havent been able to drive it up to 4500rpms to see what power feels like, plus since im used to my t2 i dunno if id realize it as a problem or as it just being slow.
kevin.
09-21-2005, 01:31 PM
#2
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Some folks suggest putting a glob of grease or a paperclip on the actuator rods, then take it above 3800 rpm under load (supposedly doesn't work in neutral), and see if the grease or clip moved (indicating the rod sucked down into the actuator like it should). Also need to be sure the actuators and sleeves can operate freely, they can get stuck.
09-21-2005, 02:13 PM
#3
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He's right about checking to see if the rods are working...either of those suggestions work. It's hard sometimes even for NA guys to notice that the actuators aren't working! I'm sure you've been around the forum enough to hear about wiring the actuators open as well...which I suggest doing if they are not working as intended. NAs don't have much bottom end to begin with, so who cares if you take a little more away.
Also, I'm going to bet that the setup the guy used won't work very well...I don't think it'll cause enough backpressure for the actuators to work. Just a hunch...
Also, I'm going to bet that the setup the guy used won't work very well...I don't think it'll cause enough backpressure for the actuators to work. Just a hunch...
09-21-2005, 06:59 PM
#4
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theres another way to check it, ive never actually done it this way but you've got the tools...
tee a boost guage into the 6 port line, and with the compressed air from the shop, see how many psi it takes for the actuators to move (should be like 2-3psi), then see if you get (2-3psi) when you're driving.
or you can run the 6 ports from the air pump, that way is nice cause you can adjust it to open for best power (seems like later is good, like 3800-4500)
either way this is an excuse to beat the crap out of the car
tee a boost guage into the 6 port line, and with the compressed air from the shop, see how many psi it takes for the actuators to move (should be like 2-3psi), then see if you get (2-3psi) when you're driving.
or you can run the 6 ports from the air pump, that way is nice cause you can adjust it to open for best power (seems like later is good, like 3800-4500)
either way this is an excuse to beat the crap out of the car
09-21-2005, 07:07 PM
#5
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Kevin
That rear line tees out to both actuators. The backpressure should be sufficient enough to open them.
If you find they are not opening, you can disassemble the actuator diaphragms, and grease those badboys up (the shaft) and work them back and fourth with your hand. It doesn't take alot of effort to move them, for the purpose of not needing alot of backpressure feed to open them up.
But sometimes the diaphragms do sieze.
That rear line tees out to both actuators. The backpressure should be sufficient enough to open them.
If you find they are not opening, you can disassemble the actuator diaphragms, and grease those badboys up (the shaft) and work them back and fourth with your hand. It doesn't take alot of effort to move them, for the purpose of not needing alot of backpressure feed to open them up.
But sometimes the diaphragms do sieze.
09-22-2005, 05:05 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by ColinRX7' post='761184' date='Sep 21 2005, 08:07 PM
Kevin
That rear line tees out to both actuators. The backpressure should be sufficient enough to open them.
If you find they are not opening, you can disassemble the actuator diaphragms, and grease those badboys up (the shaft) and work them back and fourth with your hand. It doesn't take alot of effort to move them, for the purpose of not needing alot of backpressure feed to open them up.
But sometimes the diaphragms do sieze.
lol colin said diaphragms and grease the shaft, and work it back and forth with your hand, all in one post without speaking of sex.
thats funny.
Yea ok so basically the rod on those actuators should move inward?
how easy should it be to move that rod by hand? I *think* i tried moving them and they didnt move, but i dont remember exactly.
Ill try all your suggestions, j9's sounds fun compressed air is always an adventure lol.
i mean the motor only has 17k on it, i figure they work, as long as theres enough backpressure.
once i get the driveshaft and mount ill prolly be more motivated, right now the dust and pollen piling on it sorta dissuade me from touching it. damn nj dmv.
kevin.
09-22-2005, 09:27 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='761666' date='Sep 22 2005, 09:23 PM
if you're pushing with your finger and the things assembled, its pretty hard. if you have the actuator in your hand, its not too bad, but its not easy
ok was just checking cause, with it on the motor, i think i tried, barely, to move it and it didnt. There's visible "up down movement wear", i guess youd call it, on the actuator rod.
im still trying to figure everything done on this motor, some things im just not used to due to the whole turbo motor thing
ugh and im working on a friends 88t2, so going from s4 t2, to s4 n/a back and forth confuses me for short periods some times
BTW this forum still rocks, havent been in 2nd gen too much since my cars umm inoperable lol. been missing this place for tech advice.
kevin.
09-22-2005, 09:35 PM
#9
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compressed air works the best to see if they operate in the car, imo
you can add hose to the end of the actuator, and still look and see if they operate while holding the air gun and hose outside the engine bay.
you can add hose to the end of the actuator, and still look and see if they operate while holding the air gun and hose outside the engine bay.
09-23-2005, 02:02 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by 89 Rag' post='761703' date='Sep 22 2005, 10:35 PM
compressed air works the best to see if they operate in the car, imo
you can add hose to the end of the actuator, and still look and see if they operate while holding the air gun and hose outside the engine bay.
yea thats what i was thinking of doing.
i noticed my one engine mount was split in half so im replacing that today, maybe ill **** with the 6port system.
n/as are intriguing, especially when youre used to the turbo motors.
wish i didnt have to keep the p/s and a/c (my g/f is planning on driving this car too, gotta leave it for her) because my t2's engine bay was so easy to work in without that crap.
kevin.
