2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Rust Proofing/finishing The Fender Wells

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Old 07-20-2005, 07:29 PM
  #21  
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[quote name='coldfire' date='Jul 19 2005, 10:29 AM']wow, that looks great. protection is always key, i love seeing a clean 2nd gen. becoming harder to find day by day though...



and the aluminum foil is a great idea, now i have another tool in my masking arsenal, lol



just a quick question, could you give some more info on the "dtr epoxy" you mentioned?



thanks

- Aaron

[snapback]739997[/snapback]

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Direct to rust=DTR epoxy, I used Pittsburg Paint's industrial DTR, there are other ways to do it, but this stuff works great. If you can get a paint "skin" out of a bucket and get it on a metal table, try breaking it by hitting it with a sledge hammer. The strange part is, the thicker the millage on the epoxy, the easier it breaks, the thinner the millage the stronger it is.
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Old 07-20-2005, 08:51 PM
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you should know that more paint actually chips easier and becomes more brittle
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Old 07-20-2005, 09:05 PM
  #23  
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[quote name='Rob x-7' date='Jul 20 2005, 06:51 PM']you should know that more paint actually chips easier and becomes more brittle

[snapback]740799[/snapback]

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I'm aware, just making a point for any novice, more doesn't always mean better.



Even though the phrase "it will never rust under a run" is popular on the industrial side of painting, i'm more partial to the phrase, "don't practice bad habits".



If the paint is running, you're doing something wrong.
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Old 07-20-2005, 09:19 PM
  #24  
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there is a run from a million years ago on my fender- no matter how many times I block that ****** down and its gone it always pops right the **** out during rotorfest from the intense heat.

Im talking it got blocked down when I painted it, blocked again when it showed up, blocked down to the primer and repainted that section, and it STILL came back this year.



******* black paint, I think Ill just have to get a new fender.

And it didnt show up for like 3 years, only after the car finally got garaged did it show up



quote=89 Rag,Jul 20 2005, 10:05 PM]

I'm aware, just making a point for any novice, more doesn't always mean better.





[/quote]



I always like the bullshit question- "how many coats of clear am I going to get"??
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Old 07-20-2005, 11:08 PM
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[quote name='Rob x-7' date='Jul 20 2005, 07:19 PM']

there is a run from a million years ago on my fender- no matter how many times I block that ****** down and its gone it always pops right the **** out during rotorfest from the intense heat.

Im talking it got blocked down when I painted it, blocked again when it showed up, blocked down to the primer and repainted that section, and it STILL came back this year.



******* black paint, I think Ill just have to get a new fender.

And it didnt show up for like 3 years, only after the car finally got garaged did it show up



quote=89 Rag,Jul 20 2005, 10:05 PM]

I'm aware, just making a point for any novice, more doesn't always mean better.

[/quote]



I always like the bullshit question- "how many coats of clear am I going to get"??

[snapback]740809[/snapback]

[/quote]



I remember you talking about that run in the fender before, it really is a mystery as to why it still comes back.



The clear thing kills me too, I would love to see the look on someone's face when you told them you we going to lay it on at 30 mils with a 3/4" nap! "Hey jerkey, the other day I painted your car with a roller and a brush!"
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Old 07-21-2005, 05:55 AM
  #26  
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most high solids clears these days are only 2 coats
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Old 07-23-2005, 11:47 PM
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I did this exact same thing to my Tundra a couple days after i got it. I just cleaned and prepped the wells, masked off, and sprayed on the truck bedliner stuff in the aresol can from advance auto parts. Its still holdin up great even after many barrages of rocks, sand, gravel, mud, burnouts, do-nuts, and whatever else you could throw at it. It also looks OH so nice when you do a full detail and shine up the wheelwell along with everything else.
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