2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Right Back At Ya Peng :)

Old Apr 5, 2004 | 12:32 PM
  #11  
MazdaMike's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='Apr 5 2004, 12:30 PM
I wonder how a air chisel would work?



you could also have glued the holes shut
how is that a question?
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 12:56 PM
  #12  
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So you drilled out the spot welds. All the way through? Why? The factory spot welds are done at a lower temp to keep the metal more ductile and softer which reduces the chances of the weld cracking. I took tons of cars apart at the seams for frame bench work. When using an air chisel the factory spot welds put up a major fight. The welded ones pop off with ease.



http://www.eastwoodco.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=...I1.x=33&I1.y=62



You would retain more strength by leaving the factory spot welds in place, using the above bit to add more weld points between the factory ones and then wirefeed the top layer with the hole to the bottom layer without.



My 2cents....take it for what its worth



Gregory
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 12:59 PM
  #13  
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I thought they were already using a spot weld remover drill bit
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 01:00 PM
  #14  
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ahhhhh you were removing the speaker towers. dont mind me I just had another one of my episodes.





Gregory
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 10:19 PM
  #15  
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NO NO NO!!! I didnt drill through the welds except for one because I went to a new sharper bit and I miss judged my strength because I was used to the dull one. All of the holes were created by me just not caring because I could weld them up. I drilled through most of the weld and then took a flat head screwdriver or my chisel to it. Some I didnt go as deep as I thought so therefore I just ripped it off. Most of them turned out perfect and popped right off like drilling through a rivet.
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 11:15 PM
  #16  
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it takes practice to not drill through sometimes, and even then, you sometimes dont know how thick or how many layers you have to work with
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