Originally Posted by Ricer240sx' date='Jan 27 2005, 12:25 AM

i will be doing my 3 rotor swap myself when the time comes!!



im also doing a RB26 swap into an FD with a freind soon,



i did a DOHC KA swap into an 89 240sx,



i pulled the motor on another 240sx and turboed it



i will be doing it again soon



a RB20 swap into the 240sx mentioned above with the DOHC swap in it!





and when i said i work in a shop all day, i didnt mean i was employed at one

Originally Posted by Ricer240sx' date='Jan 27 2005, 12:25 AM

?????? im not, i didnt start this thread i will be doing my 3 rotor swap myself when the time comes!! im also doing a RB26 swap into an FD with a freind soon, i did a DOHC KA swap into an 89 240sx, i pulled the motor on another 240sx and turboed it, and i will be doing it again soon, and then next year i have been called on to do a RB20 swap into the 240sx mentioned above with the DOHC swap in it!



i do not go to shops to do anything but **** i cant do because lack of equipment and or what im too lazy to do and thats all basic mantinance!! i plan on opening my own shop in a couple of years, so me taking my work to a shop is obviously not an option for me. plus the only performance shop around here is bogus!!! they specialize in DSM's and yet it took the owner like 2 years to get from very low elevens into the 10s with his 1st gen TSI AWD!!!!!



and when i said i work in a shop all day, i didnt mean i was employed at one, i am in my last semester at the local tech. for auto tech. sorry for any confusion

Originally Posted by illrida1300' date='Jan 27 2005, 12:10 PM

yeah i just went to acosta motors today, which si a known rotary shop here. they do good work, and they want 4000 for the swap, 2500 just fro labor, just to put in a fd in a turbo two with a front mount and a stock ecu. for a stand aloen they went 1500. shti for that money i went out adn i bought a rhd rx-7 from the japanese motors next to my house. itll take 3 to 5 months to get here.

Originally Posted by G2G' date='Jan 27 2005, 05:35 AM

The tachometer gets its signal from the trailing coil pack. You splice one wire into the trailing coil pack, the rest stays stock. Coolant and boost, if you want them to work, you have to wire new sensors up because most stand alones replace the stock ones with newer ones. Note: soldering doesn't involves splicing two harnesses together. What soldering does involve is making a connection between two wires.



With a Stand alone ecu, you make connections to the nice brand new connectors that came with the kit. These connection often don't involve soldering. Then you plug the connecters into the nice new sensors you have. On a TII you have to splice four wires for the CAS one wire into the trailing coil pack, and one wire into the primary coil pack. 6 wires total, not the entire car. So instead of hacking both wiring harnesses and splicing together, you get brand new sensors connectors wires, and you have to splice 6 in. One way is easier than the other.



- Hand

Originally Posted by Jims5543' date='Jan 27 2005, 06:27 AM

I am not arguing that you cannot swap in a stock FD ECU into an FC. I am mearly pointing out that, while it CAN be done, it would be a waste of money if your not doing it yourself. Plus, finding a shop to do it will be another problem. I dont want to see the bill for that swap.



When you swap in the 20B are you going to use the stock ECU??



Just wondering....

Originally Posted by mazdadrifter' date='Jan 27 2005, 05:46 AM

shenanigans has officially been declared

Originally Posted by Ricer240sx' date='Jan 24 2005, 07:05 PM

u are making no sence what so ever here!! u have to splice the body harness into the engine harness or ECU harness when using stand alone, thus making it just as hard as using the stock ecu!!!



stop telling me that i dont know what im talking about! if i dont know what im talking about then proove it instead of telling me what i have and havent done!! i cant learn unless u teach!