I want to put a tt in a 2nd gen. The tt motor came out of a automatic fd, if I put it in a T II can i use the turbo two tranny, or do i need to get a manual fd tranny to put in the fc. What else do I need to do the swap.

Dont do a tt, get one of those three rotors. I have know clue about them. But, maybe somebody can set you straight on what to do. Sorry I couldnt help that much.

i'm no expert when it comes to swapping engines..



but as i understand it, the 13B-REW is more complicated than just putting it in.

not sure about it, but i had heard that it takes a lot of work to make it operate properly..

like if it came off an automatic FD. i would imagine you'd need the ECU from a manual FD? unless u go standalone EMS?



what i would do, is sell the 13B-REW, and build myself a 13B-t for my FC.

your going to want to use the t2 tranny



as for the second part of the question, A LOT. ecu that can sequence the turbos, some device to mount the motor in there as they use different mounts than a 13bt did, front mount, electric fan, pulley kit, ect ect

I got teh whole fd car but its hit and i dotn watn to fix it so all of the parts that are needed from a fd i have i need to know what else i need

im sure u wont need an e-fan



and u can use teh stock ecu, im sure that will control the turbos just fine!!



then i would put the motor in the engine bay and position it where u want it, then start welding (and fabricating if the stock FD mounts wont work) things into place! then i would rip out the stock ECU and harness from both cars, put the FD harness and ECU in the TII and rewire the body harness (will require wiring diagram of both of course) and then put the motor in and hook everything up and vuala!! u got urself a TT FC!!!



u shouldnt have any clearance issues as ur doing custom mounts so u can tweek them how ever u need to to get everything to clear!!

I did the swap. Plan on a stand alone ECU unless you have countless hours to spend trying to chase down the correct wires to splice the stock UCE into the FC chassis.



There are a few things you can do different. Mazdadrifter used a series 5 water pump on his RE and that can be done on the REW as well this will enable you to use the stock belt fan (highly recomended) and it will match up with the radiator inlets/outlets better. If you choose the keep the stock waterpump then you're gonna need to have some custom parts made (see my thread) and youre definatly going to need a really good E-fan.



Your biggest problem is the motor mounts. Other than that the swap isn't impossible.



Really plan on an ECU though its woth the investment.



Here is a link to a thread I made about my swap.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=11528

yeah wiring up a stock fd ecu into a non fd is a ton of work, and its a crappy ecu with those crappy twin turbos too

how is a stand alone gunna fix the wiring problem??? the FC body harness still has to be spliced into the FD harness if im not mistaken??? so either way it goes ur gunna have to hunt down wires which will be easy if ur not color blind!!



i never did understand y ppl think wiring is sooo hard....... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png

the only wireing you retain is the charging and starting system that is controlled via a idiot cluster and ignition switch and main computer.



with a standalone, you start the engine managment from scratch which is great in a performance setup, so you know wires are fresh, connections are good, sensors are fresh, and if done property wont fail for years and years to come.



I'm not even going to cover the advantages of a stand alone over a stock ecu. But it sounds as if your more familiar with total engine swapping more than over-all tuning so you probably can't appreciate a stand alone to it's fullest.

To Wire an FD ECU in will take a lot of work. You have to hunt through the chassis wiring harness and find all the necessary connections then match them up with the FD ECU. It sounds simple but it is not. I am not 100% sure everything will work after that as well.



Plus, like Mazdadrifter said, your putting in 12 year old wires, sensors etc.. You will be chasing around problems from then on.



I mean, if your on a really tight budget and dont mind spending all that time wiring in an old harness go for it. Nothing is impossible. Its just the payoff for all that work is very limited.

i do appreciate a stand alone, im just saying, to get the motor in and running u can go with out one and it will be the same amount of work!! it just seemed like he was on a budget as a lot of us are https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/violin.gif





and i still dont see how u can neglegt the wiring with a stand alone but not with the stock ecu!!!

you have obviously not installed a stand alone ecu, so you are ill infomed to help this guy with your input.



going fast costs money, grow an addiction to ramen noodles like the rest of us.

acctualy i have! well, not personaly but i was sitting 2" from my buddy when he did, and he spliced into teh wiring harness leaving the stock ecu in (it was the EMS stinger3 in a nissan 240sx)



so that would mean that u would need to have the body harness spliced into the engine harness for everything to work right!!



but, sence im wrong, then how do u get all the components inside the car to work?? cause if the 13b engine harness wont work on a 13brew how do u get the body harness to connect to the engine harness so it can hook up into the ecu???



u are making no sence what so ever here!! u have to splice the body harness into the engine harness or ECU harness when using stand alone, thus making it just as hard as using the stock ecu!!!



stop telling me that i dont know what im talking about! if i dont know what im talking about then proove it instead of telling me what i have and havent done!! i cant learn unless u teach!

bro that swap looks incrediblew man. Ive never seen anythign liek that aroudn here. Where i live all i see is freakign civics adn golfs. no rotaries being hooked up.



I was teh first to get a fd but i hit it in teh rain.



your car is great but there is no way i can afford to do that.



All i want to do is out a rew motor in a fc. and get a new intercooler. i dotn want anythign that crazy, cause i woudl kill myself. All i need is to spank teh crap out of all these civics here that think they are the sh*t cause they run high 13 in a 1/4 mile.



my fd ran a 12.4 with a automatic od tranny and now that i dotn have it anymore im devistated.



I have the whoel car but it costs too much to fix



Im asking how much it would cost to just put teh fd motor in a tII and if you kno anybody from jersey or new york area that would do it.



I apreciate all of the help.



I would try to do it myself but i dotn kno as much as you guys do.

12.4 second auto fd?



sniff?

I think we all agree its very doable.



The biggest PITA will be sitting down with the FD wiring diagrams and FC diagrams and finding all the correct wires to match up. Again if on a budget and you have the time then go for it. Personally I would save my money for a while and get a stand alone then you can make your car grow easily with your needs.



illrida1300- What your proposing to do will take a LOT of time. If your planning on paying someone to do it it will cost some money.



I used a stock FD manual flywheel and TII tranny with a TII clutch. The FD clutch works opposite and will not work but the FC TII clutch will match up with the FD flywheel friction surface. The starter isnt too happy about the marriage but its sticking around for the ride after each use.



Then like Mazdrifter said you need a FMIC and plumbing for it as well. These things get expensive. The motor mounts will have to be custom made, again that = expensive.



What your proposing to do cannot be achieved on a shoestring budget. I honstly dont think so.

Is your shop equpped with a welder? Cutting Torch? Are you pproficient with them? Do you have a Digital Multimeter? Do you know how to use it and what it is telling you? Do you have LOTS of spare time?



What is your budget? What are your capabilities? What facilities do you have available to you? BE REALISTIC

i'm trying to tell you if you will open your ears.



using a stand alone ecu, you can bolt a tt rotary to your lawnmower if you want. The only thing that would be more difficult (than the drivetrain adapting obviously) is to organize the charging and starting mechanisms. In which case you could probably rig something up to work, but that's not the point.



with a stand alone you start fresh. you use a couple connectors and all fresh wires, and depending on the ecu, all fresh sensors. you have a shiney new wireing harness with a shiney new book that tells you exacltey where everything goes. then you just lay out the harness, cut it to length, then soder and shrink wrap it. secure the harness. that's simplified, but is basically how it works.



why not just use a stock ecu? because stock sucks that's why. You do all that work, and trust me chasing color coded, oil covered, dirty old brittle wires sucks ******* donkey balls. and after you do all that? YOU HAVE A STOCK MOTOR! what about when you want to turn up the boost? or add bigger injectors? or tweak timing? either you sit around and call yourself a dumbass, or you get a 500 dollar piggy back setup, then call yourself a dumbass because you could've started fresh with a standalone for 1k. stock sucks, stock sucks, stock sucks



i don't care how many you've witnessed or seen on tuner transformation, stock is ****. if you want to put a v8 in the thing then any monkey can make power out of that, but if you actually want the ability to tune the car and get those last couple hp, then there is no question.



and humping someone's leg while they soder and shrink wrap doesn't mean ****. it sure as hell doesn't mean that you know what your talking about. I know you want to have an opinion as much as the next guy, but don't recommend this guy and lead himself into a rediculously frustrating situaion that he will ultimalty regret unless he wants to have a 255 hp car for the rest of his life. as soon as he wants to change injectors or crank the boost he will kick himself for not doing it in the first place.

your allergic to bullshit too?

i got liek 6000 to spent man. is that enough to get a shop to do it cause i cant do ti myself.



and yes 12.4 is possible with a auto fd. there was decent amount of work put into the engine and suspension. thast y im still keepign the car and not parting it cause of suspension and other mods done to it.

it's not going to cost you anymore to wire a stand alone ecu as far as labor time goes, in fact it might cost you less. So what your really debating is, should you get a stand alone, or piggy backs after the fact.



of course i say, do it right the first time.

im curt when im drinking! lol

they are open



last time i checked when ur soldering wires ur splicing 2 harnesses together!



or, if u jsut want to get the car running u throw the stock ecu in and then save up for a stand alond and all the other stuff u want to do with it!! some companys make vechical specific standalons were u just plug the wiring harness into an adapter harness and then plug that into the unit, and sence u already spliced the engine harness and body harness together, u just plug and play like normal!!



settle down man sheesh! lol, and my reply to this is covered above



covered that already too



sothen if ur telling me that there is no splicing involved, can u pleas tell me how the gauge cluster will work?? or any of the warning lights?? or anything else that the ECU controls on the inside of the car??



it doesnt take a rocket scientist to match colors, so i dont see y ur making a big deal of it! the harness is inside the car and should not be all oily and coroded! i could see there being some corrosion but oily?? i think not!!



and just for referance, i work in a shop all day(yes im a mechanic) so i do know what i am talking about!

what shop is that? post the phone number and i'll call you there and discuss this further.

somebody ban him

ban me?? y because i know what im talkiing about????



prove me wrong if im wrong, dont just tell me!!

If you are so smart, and since you seem to know, the why the **** are you asking?



go ahead and do it and proove everyone wrong.

?????? im not, i didnt start this thread i will be doing my 3 rotor swap myself when the time comes!! im also doing a RB26 swap into an FD with a freind soon, i did a DOHC KA swap into an 89 240sx, i pulled the motor on another 240sx and turboed it, and i will be doing it again soon, and then next year i have been called on to do a RB20 swap into the 240sx mentioned above with the DOHC swap in it!



i do not go to shops to do anything but **** i cant do because lack of equipment and or what im too lazy to do and thats all basic mantinance!! i plan on opening my own shop in a couple of years, so me taking my work to a shop is obviously not an option for me. plus the only performance shop around here is bogus!!! they specialize in DSM's and yet it took the owner like 2 years to get from very low elevens into the 10s with his 1st gen TSI AWD!!!!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif



and when i said i work in a shop all day, i didnt mean i was employed at one, i am in my last semester at the local tech. for auto tech. sorry for any confusion

The tachometer gets its signal from the trailing coil pack. You splice one wire into the trailing coil pack, the rest stays stock. Coolant and boost, if you want them to work, you have to wire new sensors up because most stand alones replace the stock ones with newer ones. Note: soldering doesn't involves splicing two harnesses together. What soldering does involve is making a connection between two wires.



With a Stand alone ecu, you make connections to the nice brand new connectors that came with the kit. These connection often don't involve soldering. Then you plug the connecters into the nice new sensors you have. On a TII you have to splice four wires for the CAS one wire into the trailing coil pack, and one wire into the primary coil pack. 6 wires total, not the entire car. So instead of hacking both wiring harnesses and splicing together, you get brand new sensors connectors wires, and you have to splice 6 in. One way is easier than the other.



- Hand

shenanigans has officially been declared

HE STILL HASNT ANSWERED MY QUESTIONS ABOUT HIS GARAGE CAPABILITIES!

I am not arguing that you cannot swap in a stock FD ECU into an FC. I am mearly pointing out that, while it CAN be done, it would be a waste of money if your not doing it yourself. Plus, finding a shop to do it will be another problem. I dont want to see the bill for that swap.



When you swap in the 20B are you going to use the stock ECU??



Just wondering....

yeah i just went to acosta motors today, which si a known rotary shop here. they do good work, and they want 4000 for the swap, 2500 just fro labor, just to put in a fd in a turbo two with a front mount and a stock ecu. for a stand aloen they went 1500. shti for that money i went out adn i bought a rhd rx-7 from the japanese motors next to my house. itll take 3 to 5 months to get here.

so they wanted 1500 more to wire a stand alone? , or does that money buy the stand alone and get it installed?

You arent having it shipped over-nite from Japan? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif



And just how do yo plan on registering that RHD JAY-DEE-EM RX-7 once you get it in the country?

im sorry, we must have had a miss understanding, i didnt mean u had top splice the whole harnesses together, i jsut ment there would still be splicing involved.





no, i will not be using the stiock ecu, i will be going stand alone for sure!!



and for clarifacation, i wasnt saying that it would be better to use the stock ECU, it just seemed like he was trying to keep initial costs down so i was suggesting he used it just to get the car running untill he saved up for a stand alone, cause even if the motor is in with only intake, exhaust, and fmic, it will still be quite faster than the 13bt!

y??? i do plan on putting a 3 rotor in my na, not anytime soon but someday, and my buddy will be starting his RB swap as soon as we finish turboing the 240sx!! would u like to talk to him??pm him, his name on here is veilsides14 he will also tell u that i did a DOHC swap in my 89 240sx (all i have to do is drop the motor in, but the buyer might want it turboed first so that will be yet another KA-T under my belt) then another buddy of mine has a 91 240sx which he wants turboed(dont know if it will ever happen though cause he keeps spendinghis money elsewhere). and the person buyin my 240sx wants to go RB20 next spring so i will be doing most of that for him. so i do have some experiance, and more to come!!



i am not trying to say im the best teck out there, im just putting out my experiance!! someone asked y i was going to take my car to the shop to have it done so i corrected him and showed him i dont go to shops!



but call shenanagans all u like!!



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif im out!!

Sorry bud you said that swapping in a stand alone would be just as hard as taking two completely different harnesses and going wire by wire, finding the right color and putting them together. Like I said above, putting in a stand alone required me to make 7 splices, I had one extra for the fuel pump I was putting in at the same time. 7 splices vs almost 100 which do you think is easier. Putting in a stand alone is much easier than splicing two seperate harnesses together that are 16 and 10 years old.



- Hand

first off i said it takes up to 5 months to get it shipped. nooen said its over night.



then i get it registered for 1500, cause a local body shop has a r34 skyline, and it is registered. they also register them.