project car rebuild
01-06-2007, 08:53 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: new providence, pa (south of lancaster)
Posts: 2
hey guys my names eric my friends call me erk.
last spring i bought a 1988 turbo II with 170 or so thousand miles from a friend. it had stopped running before i bought it and so since i wanted a project car here i am.
i havent worked on too much because this past year i got married and with all the fun that goes with pulling that together i havent had much time. now that the holidays have past and my work week is turning back into a 40 hour one again im trying to get back on the car.
im currently putting the car back together/replacing gaskets. i was wondering if you guys could help me get my hands on a shop manual (the links i found are dead and i emailed the guy who puts them on dvd and have gotten no response in 3 months) or anything else that might help. right now my chilton isnt really cutting it.
one day him n i were headed into town and the car just stopped running going up a hill so we thought the pump died. the pump was fine, bad wires so we re routed some wires for a short term fix to see if that would do it. well the car still wouldnt start so we tried the deflood procedure of automatic tranny fluid inside the rotar housings and repeated the process and repeated and repeated. then we checked the rest of the ignition system after having replaced the spark plugs and wires. we replaced two fuses and then came the milky/grey smoke. so then we started looking all over the engine for coolant leaks and found one. im currently trying to replace the lower intakes gasket because we noticed a coolant leak from where the intake meets the block. before we started tearing the engine apart the car was so close to starting it hurt, you could tell it wanted to but as soon as you let off the starter it would die.
the car has a manual boost controller on it but im almost positive it was set at stock psi, if it wasnt however how much trouble do you think it might have caused in this scenario. if the boost wasnt at stock levels it was close. how much boost can you run before the stock fuel cut off?
i wanted to know how important certain parts are since they are currently missing. the air control valve that is supposed to be located on the lower intake manifold is gone and has been replaced with a block off plate and the air hoses that connect to the four oil meter nozzles is gone. in place of the hose set is some short pieces of hose stopped up with screws.
ive also got to rewire the fuel pump because a previous owner butchered the wiring and installed two toggle switches while upgrading the fuel pump. ive currently got a quick fix for that till i finalize it.
oh and also, how much damage could using the wrong kind of spark plugs cause? the spark plugs it had were generic single arm plugs. im almost positive the spark plugs never contacted the rotors since the threaded side was shorter than the NGKs.
also, i figure while im in there im gonna yank out the ABS and A/C because both are in my way. the A/C doesnt work and this will make my second car out of seven cars ive owned with ABS so i really dont think ill miss it. im also debating on whether to keep the powersteering or not.
this is my first rotary even though its been a tad frustrating i love the car. so any answers, suggestions, helpfull tips, links or even a hello are all welcome.
last spring i bought a 1988 turbo II with 170 or so thousand miles from a friend. it had stopped running before i bought it and so since i wanted a project car here i am.
i havent worked on too much because this past year i got married and with all the fun that goes with pulling that together i havent had much time. now that the holidays have past and my work week is turning back into a 40 hour one again im trying to get back on the car.
im currently putting the car back together/replacing gaskets. i was wondering if you guys could help me get my hands on a shop manual (the links i found are dead and i emailed the guy who puts them on dvd and have gotten no response in 3 months) or anything else that might help. right now my chilton isnt really cutting it.
one day him n i were headed into town and the car just stopped running going up a hill so we thought the pump died. the pump was fine, bad wires so we re routed some wires for a short term fix to see if that would do it. well the car still wouldnt start so we tried the deflood procedure of automatic tranny fluid inside the rotar housings and repeated the process and repeated and repeated. then we checked the rest of the ignition system after having replaced the spark plugs and wires. we replaced two fuses and then came the milky/grey smoke. so then we started looking all over the engine for coolant leaks and found one. im currently trying to replace the lower intakes gasket because we noticed a coolant leak from where the intake meets the block. before we started tearing the engine apart the car was so close to starting it hurt, you could tell it wanted to but as soon as you let off the starter it would die.
the car has a manual boost controller on it but im almost positive it was set at stock psi, if it wasnt however how much trouble do you think it might have caused in this scenario. if the boost wasnt at stock levels it was close. how much boost can you run before the stock fuel cut off?
i wanted to know how important certain parts are since they are currently missing. the air control valve that is supposed to be located on the lower intake manifold is gone and has been replaced with a block off plate and the air hoses that connect to the four oil meter nozzles is gone. in place of the hose set is some short pieces of hose stopped up with screws.
ive also got to rewire the fuel pump because a previous owner butchered the wiring and installed two toggle switches while upgrading the fuel pump. ive currently got a quick fix for that till i finalize it.
oh and also, how much damage could using the wrong kind of spark plugs cause? the spark plugs it had were generic single arm plugs. im almost positive the spark plugs never contacted the rotors since the threaded side was shorter than the NGKs.
also, i figure while im in there im gonna yank out the ABS and A/C because both are in my way. the A/C doesnt work and this will make my second car out of seven cars ive owned with ABS so i really dont think ill miss it. im also debating on whether to keep the powersteering or not.
this is my first rotary even though its been a tad frustrating i love the car. so any answers, suggestions, helpfull tips, links or even a hello are all welcome.
01-07-2007, 06:52 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 293
Welcome to the wonder full world of rotaries!!!! TII are sweet and few and far between, above all remember that. Fuel cut-off is set at 9 or so psi, maybe lower. Personallly I'm a first gen guy but I'll give you my 2 cents. 170 thousand on a stock turbo TII is a lot. Honestly I would not put a dime into the car untill u run a compression check on the car. The engine is more than likely super low on compression I beleive u mentioned cold start problems. Usually a red flag for poor copression. Dont get bummed out buy this check Ebay, All the time I see J specTII engines for 1500-2000. A majority of these are compleet packages engine trans turbo some time even a wireing harness and ocasionally an ecu. The mileage is usually between 40-60k. Rebuilds for a turbo II will probably exceed 2k parts labor yada yada yada. What I wold do go used jspec, 3" exghaust all the way back. Fuel cut defensor. and up grade the clutch. You'd like that trust me!! My first rotary was An 88 TTII. Final thought the wrong plugs can KILL a rotary if there longer than the stock NGK's . Please make sure your oil metering line are hooked up!! Good luck dont let the woman make you get rid of this car. women dont usually get the whole rotary upsession thing hehehehe!
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