Electric

First, I checked the obvious. Plug wires connected properly, coils bolted down securely. Checked resistance of leading coil. Checked resistance of trailing coils. Now, I don't know why I'm not getting spark...But there are 2 little cylindrical connectors coming of the harness that plugs into each coil that arent connected to anything...the black one off the leading coil sends power..

The white one on the trailing coil we didn't test but its the same type of connector and its also disconnected...what do they do? Here's pictures.





Theres a picture of the black one on my buddy's fingers.





Theres the white one over the brake booster



Now, what are those things, why does the black one supply power...and I've checked the coils and crank angle sensor and they check out.



Coil Resistances

L: 0.5 ohms T1: 0.6 T2: 0.7 or 0.8 ohms. Haynes Manual says below 1 ohm is acceptable.

Crank Angle Sensor Resistances:

G1 and G2 (left ones): 149.8 ohms N1 and N2 (right ones) 150 ohms



Why am I not getting any spark, what should I check next?

fcs13

those plugs have to do with mazda's factory "RPM test pluggin" where you can temporarily install a tach under the hood to check idle. they do not have anything to do with the spark of the leading or trailing coils. Have you checked the fuses on the driver side strut tower in the main fuse box? You could have corrosion on parts of the contacts or even a blown egi fuse. in either case I would check them regardless. I had this same problem and it turned out to be the fuse.

Electric

I'm getting voltage to the coils and the coil resistance checks out...I wouldn't get any voltage to them if I had a blown fuse. I also checked every fuse visually and with an ohmmeter they're all fine. I checked the EGI main relay when I was replacing the fuel pump and the EGI relay is fine...but it wasn't bolted to the fender..but the fuel pump was still working I didn't think anything of it...I bolted it back down though.

teknics

my guess is the CAS, if you have a spare one laying around swap it in and see what happens.



kevin.

Electric

CAS is fine, resistances are fine. The only thing I didn't check because I couldn't was the ignitors. I'm almost entirely positive they're the problems.

teknics

i dont think ive seen the ignitors burn out. at least not on an fc. ive had CAS' that tested fine but when swapped out the problem went away.



i have a deep hate of the CAS.



kevin.

Electric

Well my buddy probably fried the ignitors by shoving a test light in the plug wire while cranking...I hope its the ignitors or the ECU both of which I can get cheap from another friend of mine.

teknics

a test light wont fry anything.



kevin.

Electric

According to Icemark, it frys the ignitors. Doesn't matter, my buddy is coming over with a CAS, ECU and coils were gonna swap out parts individually till it starts.

NAFC

so how did this end up? my coils and CAS are fine too, and im goin insane trying to figure this out.