new! need a bit of help
01-19-2009, 10:08 AM
#11
Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 72
All good advice, by the Pic I am guessing your up north by the Pic and might be pretty cool there now. Pre mix just made it a little harder to start, gasoline likes to stay liquid colder it gets. Sounds like it flooded and I have been there, came from Ohio and had an 88 flood in the middle of winter. Is the car trying to fire at all? Had luck with second person helping doing all your doing and I spayed starting fluid into air intake in air box when it tries to light touch EGI fuse but dont plug it in till it starts hitting on both rotors. (you will see what I mean) Had best luck holding pedal just above idle. Good Luck. Oh wont hurt to spray some on the plugs to dry and clean them before install and spray some into the chamber. Caution stuff is FLAMABLE stay away from open flame and heater. Good Luck
01-19-2009, 05:00 PM
#13
Super Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Amityville, New York
Posts: 12,288
go easy with that starter fluid, thats a good way to blow a rotary motor.
you may want to try putting marvel mystery oil in the rotors. What you want to do is get MMO and a funnel, the type of funnels for automatic transmissions with the flexible end works well.
Remove leading plugs and put a few drops in , remove EGI fuse under the hood, crank a little bit, put a few more drops in, crank a little again.
Let it sit a day or so.
Crank the engine again to get that MMO to spit out a little bit.
Put the plugs back in.
Put fuse back in, have someone crank the car over, if it does not start within 5-7 seconds remove the fuse, crank until it starts, once it starts put the fuse back in.
The key is to not flood the engine. I have found its best to crank the engine with a battery charger on jump setting.
Let it run for a good 20 minutes to clear it out, take it for a ride and try to get the engine revving.
Let it cool down and put fresh plugs in.
you may want to try putting marvel mystery oil in the rotors. What you want to do is get MMO and a funnel, the type of funnels for automatic transmissions with the flexible end works well.
Remove leading plugs and put a few drops in , remove EGI fuse under the hood, crank a little bit, put a few more drops in, crank a little again.
Let it sit a day or so.
Crank the engine again to get that MMO to spit out a little bit.
Put the plugs back in.
Put fuse back in, have someone crank the car over, if it does not start within 5-7 seconds remove the fuse, crank until it starts, once it starts put the fuse back in.
The key is to not flood the engine. I have found its best to crank the engine with a battery charger on jump setting.
Let it run for a good 20 minutes to clear it out, take it for a ride and try to get the engine revving.
Let it cool down and put fresh plugs in.
01-19-2009, 06:16 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Boston Ma.
Posts: 1,420
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='914879' date='Jan 19 2009, 06:00 PM
go easy with that starter fluid, thats a good way to blow a rotary motor.
you may want to try putting marvel mystery oil.....
you may want to try putting marvel mystery oil.....
Only thing id like to add is change the oil after you get it running right.
01-20-2009, 12:05 AM
#15
Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 72
All good advice
So guys the dude is in NY and temp is next to zero! Gasoline will sit in a puddle forever at that temp. The starter fluid in the airbox will just help light it off. The starting fluid will evaperate sprayed into the plug hole and take some of that fuel with it. It's sounds like its big time flooded and a S4 N/A dumps the fuel in the engine at that temp and will need a good spark to light it off. The contol module for these motors suck, hell you can start a heathy S4 and shut it right back down and it can flood. And I have owned a few I think I read somewhere Mazda knew about it but never corrected it for the S4 cars. Learned you always wait for the temp gauge to move before shutting one down from a fresh start. Drops out of the cold start mode and makes it easy to live with.
He's on track with fresh plugs and a little oil wont hurt as I am sure the gasoline has washed the housings clean. As far as starting fluid hurting the motor Some people operate on the principle that if a little starting fluid is good, then a lot more should be much better. That is where the blown engines come from. Read the instructions on the can before you use it. Weak parts break sooner or later and don't trying to run on the stuff that will hurt any motor.
So guys the dude is in NY and temp is next to zero! Gasoline will sit in a puddle forever at that temp. The starter fluid in the airbox will just help light it off. The starting fluid will evaperate sprayed into the plug hole and take some of that fuel with it. It's sounds like its big time flooded and a S4 N/A dumps the fuel in the engine at that temp and will need a good spark to light it off. The contol module for these motors suck, hell you can start a heathy S4 and shut it right back down and it can flood. And I have owned a few I think I read somewhere Mazda knew about it but never corrected it for the S4 cars. Learned you always wait for the temp gauge to move before shutting one down from a fresh start. Drops out of the cold start mode and makes it easy to live with.
He's on track with fresh plugs and a little oil wont hurt as I am sure the gasoline has washed the housings clean. As far as starting fluid hurting the motor Some people operate on the principle that if a little starting fluid is good, then a lot more should be much better. That is where the blown engines come from. Read the instructions on the can before you use it. Weak parts break sooner or later and don't trying to run on the stuff that will hurt any motor.
01-20-2009, 05:49 PM
#19
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 35
got some mmo today, put some into the leading holes. when i go to crank it tomorrow do i crank the mmo out completely or just like quick crank it then throw plugs in it? Then if it doesnt start with the fuse in, i take the fuse out then crank it till it starts??? what happens if it does not start? how long should i crank with the fuse out? just making sure i do everything right
01-20-2009, 06:36 PM
#20
Super Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Amityville, New York
Posts: 12,288
you crank it for a few seconds just to clear out any puddled MMO, then put the spark plugs back in- use the old plugs for this.
If it does not start with the fuse in take it out, crank it and see what happens. It should start up, if not plug the fuse in FOR ONLY A FEW SECONDS, then unplug it again and keep cranking.
make sure of the following:
you have a battery charger hooked up
you allow the starter to cool down and dont crank it for more then 15 seconds or so at a time
this is saying that everything else is hooked up properly, dont over look the basics, including the firing order, plugs T1 and L1 are towards the front of the vehicle, plugs T2 and L2 are towards the firewall. Think of T as "TOP" and L as LOWER.
Make sure the AFM is hooked up, and make sure no one adjusted the TPS to a point where it wont allow the car to start. Also make sure the intake tube is hooked up as well.
T1 T2
L1 L2
If it does not start with the fuse in take it out, crank it and see what happens. It should start up, if not plug the fuse in FOR ONLY A FEW SECONDS, then unplug it again and keep cranking.
make sure of the following:
you have a battery charger hooked up
you allow the starter to cool down and dont crank it for more then 15 seconds or so at a time
this is saying that everything else is hooked up properly, dont over look the basics, including the firing order, plugs T1 and L1 are towards the front of the vehicle, plugs T2 and L2 are towards the firewall. Think of T as "TOP" and L as LOWER.
Make sure the AFM is hooked up, and make sure no one adjusted the TPS to a point where it wont allow the car to start. Also make sure the intake tube is hooked up as well.
T1 T2
L1 L2