New Girl!
04-12-2010, 10:38 PM
#21
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04-12-2010, 11:42 PM
#22
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but here's a link instead http://foxed.ca/foxe...?page=rx7manual
Its always better to look for the stupid/simple/cheap/easy problems than digging into unlikely electrical issues. The FC ignition system is pretty robust, and part failures outside of plugs/wires are quite rare. Not to mention the classis symptoms of one of the defining quirks of 2nd gen rotaries. Most of them on the road will flood if you crank them and shut down before the engine is warm.
04-13-2010, 06:18 AM
#23
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Stock plugs are fine, be sure to stick with NGK's though. Ive heard of autolite plugs breaking, and dropping the ceramic insulator into the engine, ruining the rotor and housing. You can also use standard plugs instead of the OEM surface gap plugs. NGK B9EGV and B7EGV I believe.
If you smell fuel, its definately flooded, and probably badly. Pull the EGI fuse, and pull all 4 spark plugs. Crank the engine over for a a few times with the accelerator floored. You should see gas misting up from the engine bay, or at least coming out of the spark plug holes. Repeat as much as necessary to get most of the gas out of the chambers. You dont want to burn out the starter though, so give it a rest between crankings.
If your plugs are worn(center electrode rounded off too much, shorter than normal, or any of the gaps look too large, replace the plugs. Be sure the wires are going to the proper places, if you switch the trailing leads you can damage the apex seals. The coils say T1 and T2, which is front and rear rotor, respectively.
Squirt a little oil into the chambers, doesnt need to be much at all, 1/4-1/2 oz each rotor, reinstall the plugs, wires, and EGI fuse. Crank normally. Should smoke for a minute, thats from the oil. The oil builds extra compression, and helps a hard to start motor fire up easier. Let it warm up, take it for a short drive, and it should be fine.
If you smell fuel, its definately flooded, and probably badly. Pull the EGI fuse, and pull all 4 spark plugs. Crank the engine over for a a few times with the accelerator floored. You should see gas misting up from the engine bay, or at least coming out of the spark plug holes. Repeat as much as necessary to get most of the gas out of the chambers. You dont want to burn out the starter though, so give it a rest between crankings.
If your plugs are worn(center electrode rounded off too much, shorter than normal, or any of the gaps look too large, replace the plugs. Be sure the wires are going to the proper places, if you switch the trailing leads you can damage the apex seals. The coils say T1 and T2, which is front and rear rotor, respectively.
Squirt a little oil into the chambers, doesnt need to be much at all, 1/4-1/2 oz each rotor, reinstall the plugs, wires, and EGI fuse. Crank normally. Should smoke for a minute, thats from the oil. The oil builds extra compression, and helps a hard to start motor fire up easier. Let it warm up, take it for a short drive, and it should be fine.
I agree. Thing about a flooded RX-7 that won't start is that repeated unsuccessful attempts to start it result in it becoming even more flooded. It won't fix itself. Pull the EGI fuse, pull the plugs, and crank it over. If the engine hasn't been hard to start before, you might skip the oil. Put the fuse back, install new stock NGK plugs, and fire it up!
04-13-2010, 08:01 AM
#24
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Anytime you take it to a shop, be prepared for this. I would always have to tell the mechanics "let it warm up to operating temperature before shutting it off."
And I'd still get that call a few hours later, "uh, your car won't start."
And I'd still get that call a few hours later, "uh, your car won't start."
04-13-2010, 08:18 AM
#25
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04-13-2010, 10:34 AM
#26
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SO another new problem has come up, I drove it from the exhuast shop over to my boyfriends work place (where my mechanic is) and my mechanic was riding behind me and said it seemed the car is getting to hot. It had no power it was constantly stalling and smelled horrible. I have never had this many problems with a car! I didn't start having this problem until the morning of driving it to the shop, and it seemed to have gotten worse after I picked it up. Does anyone think it could be the fuel mixture or the oil injector? My temp. gauge is not going up at any accelerating heights or anything either.
04-13-2010, 12:56 PM
#28
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I am not sure with what he meant by that, I think it was because the constant stalling and acceleration problems it seemed to be having, also the large amount of fuel smell coming from the car. I don't understand what would be causing this to happen, it has never done this before.
04-13-2010, 01:03 PM
#29
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I am not sure with what he meant by that, I think it was because the constant stalling and acceleration problems it seemed to be having, also the large amount of fuel smell coming from the car. I don't understand what would be causing this to happen, it has never done this before.
Hmmm. That does sound a tad ominous. You might have someone knowledgeable about rotary engines do a compression check on the engine. That would let you know what kind of shape it was in. How many miles on the engine?
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec98/techtips.htm
04-13-2010, 01:10 PM
#30
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baldy i think she is saying that the mechanic was sitting behind her in the car, not driving behind lol. but still, once the car gets up to temperature i never see it move from there on my fb or fd so as long as it does warm up fine and then stay there, i wouldn't be worried about it. if it's getting too hot though, check your coolant level and make sure there are no leaks. as for the smell, to put in the headers did they have to remove your catalytic converter? if they did then that would be the fuel smell from the exhaust. as for the running issues, i'm not exactly sure lol.