New Girl!
04-12-2010, 08:18 PM
#12
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Staunton
Posts: 18
Well their seems to be a new probably; now the car won't start! It will just turn and turn and turn but it won't catch! I am not sure if it is the anti-theft, any suggestions? My friend is a Ford master tech so is trying to help me fix it in the morning; anything would help! Anyone with similar problems?
04-12-2010, 09:04 PM
#13
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: VA
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Well their seems to be a new probably; now the car won't start! It will just turn and turn and turn but it won't catch! I am not sure if it is the anti-theft, any suggestions? My friend is a Ford master tech so is trying to help me fix it in the morning; anything would help! Anyone with similar problems?
If it's been started and run only a short time, then shut off, it may be flooded. It's a classic RX-7 problem.
04-12-2010, 09:22 PM
#14
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I will let it sit for a day and go to start it and their is no battery power, I charge the battery, then it normally starts right up (it has a new altenator, and new battery) After the exhaust shop finished my header and such it won't start. Maybe a relay? A guy from auto zone said possibly something with the ignition or fuel pump, but any other time I really haven't had any problems with it.
04-12-2010, 09:39 PM
#15
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Savannah, Ga
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RX7's are prone to flooding them, and unlike a piston engine, letting them sit wont unflood them. The easy way is to pull the EGI fuse from the fuse block on the drivers side shock tower, crank the car over for a few seconds with the accelerator floored(it wont start), then put the fuse back in and try to start it. If its flooded badly, you may need to pull the plugs and dry them off. A few squirts of oil into the chambers will help. You can do it through the lower spark plug hole but not the upper.
04-12-2010, 09:57 PM
#16
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RX7's are prone to flooding them, and unlike a piston engine, letting them sit wont unflood them. The easy way is to pull the EGI fuse from the fuse block on the drivers side shock tower, crank the car over for a few seconds with the accelerator floored(it wont start), then put the fuse back in and try to start it. If its flooded badly, you may need to pull the plugs and dry them off. A few squirts of oil into the chambers will help. You can do it through the lower spark plug hole but not the upper.
Is their any specific type of plugs I should be using, like a hotter type? I am also getting a large amount of raw fuel when I try to start it.
04-12-2010, 10:00 PM
#17
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: peru, IN
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i'm assuming since you have an o2 sensor that you have the 13b. it's electronic ignition so there are a lot of things involved. the ecu controls the ignitor which tells the coils when to fire. here's the schematic, your specific ignition system is on page 30 of the pdf. that should help your mechanic understand what's going on lol
04-12-2010, 10:17 PM
#18
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Stock plugs are fine, be sure to stick with NGK's though. Ive heard of autolite plugs breaking, and dropping the ceramic insulator into the engine, ruining the rotor and housing. You can also use standard plugs instead of the OEM surface gap plugs. NGK B9EGV and B7EGV I believe.
If you smell fuel, its definately flooded, and probably badly. Pull the EGI fuse, and pull all 4 spark plugs. Crank the engine over for a a few times with the accelerator floored. You should see gas misting up from the engine bay, or at least coming out of the spark plug holes. Repeat as much as necessary to get most of the gas out of the chambers. You dont want to burn out the starter though, so give it a rest between crankings.
If your plugs are worn(center electrode rounded off too much, shorter than normal, or any of the gaps look too large, replace the plugs. Be sure the wires are going to the proper places, if you switch the trailing leads you can damage the apex seals. The coils say T1 and T2, which is front and rear rotor, respectively.
Squirt a little oil into the chambers, doesnt need to be much at all, 1/4-1/2 oz each rotor, reinstall the plugs, wires, and EGI fuse. Crank normally. Should smoke for a minute, thats from the oil. The oil builds extra compression, and helps a hard to start motor fire up easier. Let it warm up, take it for a short drive, and it should be fine.
04-12-2010, 10:28 PM
#19
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Staunton
Posts: 18
Stock plugs are fine, be sure to stick with NGK's though. Ive heard of autolite plugs breaking, and dropping the ceramic insulator into the engine, ruining the rotor and housing. You can also use standard plugs instead of the OEM surface gap plugs. NGK B9EGV and B7EGV I believe.
If you smell fuel, its definately flooded, and probably badly. Pull the EGI fuse, and pull all 4 spark plugs. Crank the engine over for a a few times with the accelerator floored. You should see gas misting up from the engine bay, or at least coming out of the spark plug holes. Repeat as much as necessary to get most of the gas out of the chambers. You dont want to burn out the starter though, so give it a rest between crankings.
If your plugs are worn(center electrode rounded off too much, shorter than normal, or any of the gaps look too large, replace the plugs. Be sure the wires are going to the proper places, if you switch the trailing leads you can damage the apex seals. The coils say T1 and T2, which is front and rear rotor, respectively.
Squirt a little oil into the chambers, doesnt need to be much at all, 1/4-1/2 oz each rotor, reinstall the plugs, wires, and EGI fuse. Crank normally. Should smoke for a minute, thats from the oil. The oil builds extra compression, and helps a hard to start motor fire up easier. Let it warm up, take it for a short drive, and it should be fine.
If you smell fuel, its definately flooded, and probably badly. Pull the EGI fuse, and pull all 4 spark plugs. Crank the engine over for a a few times with the accelerator floored. You should see gas misting up from the engine bay, or at least coming out of the spark plug holes. Repeat as much as necessary to get most of the gas out of the chambers. You dont want to burn out the starter though, so give it a rest between crankings.
If your plugs are worn(center electrode rounded off too much, shorter than normal, or any of the gaps look too large, replace the plugs. Be sure the wires are going to the proper places, if you switch the trailing leads you can damage the apex seals. The coils say T1 and T2, which is front and rear rotor, respectively.
Squirt a little oil into the chambers, doesnt need to be much at all, 1/4-1/2 oz each rotor, reinstall the plugs, wires, and EGI fuse. Crank normally. Should smoke for a minute, thats from the oil. The oil builds extra compression, and helps a hard to start motor fire up easier. Let it warm up, take it for a short drive, and it should be fine.
Thank you all, this is what I seem to have needed...I think we may have just been over looking the minor things in this whole situation. Thanks a bunch guys! Wish me luck!
