Mysterious Problem Of The Day
#1
Okay, now I have been havling problems left and right with my 87 TII, but I manage to troublshoot and get the problem solved with help from this forum. If any of you remember, I have been having coolng problems, which ultimately boiled down to replacing the defective fan clutch (after spending $ getting a new water pump and koyo radiator ) but now I am having some idling problems, but its so irratic like she's having mood swings or something. In the morning she'll start up relatively fine, by what I mean relative, is she goes through the accelerated warm up procedure, just that its not accelerated. Normally it shoots up to 2.5K or what not to get the oil and cats all nice and toasty. but lately she's only been going up to 1.5k. Now her Idle is all over the place, In the morning while I am going to work it be high like 1100rpm and nothing less. Later in the evening she'll be at 800 rpm, which is like good! where its supposed to be, but if I start the car back up after 15 or 20 minutes of sitting, it can't idle, it will drop down to near zero and just barely keep an Idle. I'm Like WTF? what would cause such irractic idle points, and if it idles under 700 rpm its all irractic and I am getting a bunch of popps from the exaust, as if my anti-afterburn system is failing.
But after sitting for a night the process will start all over again.
And another thing, I just install an el cheapo autometer a/f guage and found that at idle its pinging all the way to the lean side and when I drive it goes off the scale. and only when its about to stall does it start heading up towards a more stoich level. Could this be related? so I am wondering if I am actually running lean or the a/f is a lying sac of poo!
Any help would be truly appreciated
But after sitting for a night the process will start all over again.
And another thing, I just install an el cheapo autometer a/f guage and found that at idle its pinging all the way to the lean side and when I drive it goes off the scale. and only when its about to stall does it start heading up towards a more stoich level. Could this be related? so I am wondering if I am actually running lean or the a/f is a lying sac of poo!
Any help would be truly appreciated
#4
I was curious if it was a fuel related problem, I was curious if anyone has an idea to what might be the culprit on the rotary. I'll check out the tps, I heard that plunger type TPS's are craptacular and cause a lot of problems for 2nd gens, I know that the Haltech comes with a rotary type tps which are way better, wonder if there is a way to install one of those without the haltech.
As far as the A/F yeah I know they are crap, but I figured its would be a decent indicator whether or not my engine is gonna blow up or not, when I bought the car, the previous owner had the engine rebuilt, but being that the previous owner was clueless about rotaries, I am not sure if she took it to a repitable engine builder. I just wanted to keep a good eye on the whats going on under the hood until I can buy a better engine.
As far as the A/F yeah I know they are crap, but I figured its would be a decent indicator whether or not my engine is gonna blow up or not, when I bought the car, the previous owner had the engine rebuilt, but being that the previous owner was clueless about rotaries, I am not sure if she took it to a repitable engine builder. I just wanted to keep a good eye on the whats going on under the hood until I can buy a better engine.
#6
No ****! I mean I don't mind doing all the work and tearin the car down to its nuts and bolts to solve the problem, but its my only mode of transportation and I can't afford to have it out of commission for more than a weekend. Plus I don't want to spend any unecessary hours and money trying to solve the problem only to find its something else. at first I thought it was a pressure leak caused by a cracked hose connecting the bac valve to the centerpipe between the turbo and intercooler. I replaced that which seemed to sole the problem at first but I am still having problems. I wrenched down a bit more on all the hose clamps to make sure that there was no leak on those. But considering that one hose was cracked on both ends, I am wondering if that is the case else where. I guess overhauling the engine with silicone vac lines will have to happen sooner than I expected.
I'll check on the vac pressure reg like said, also if it is a fuel pressure problem, I was wondering if anyone could point me to what is usually the "usual suspects" that causes fuel pressure problems in rotaries. I would assume a fuel pump, but I know that sometimes isn't always the case.
thanks
I'll check on the vac pressure reg like said, also if it is a fuel pressure problem, I was wondering if anyone could point me to what is usually the "usual suspects" that causes fuel pressure problems in rotaries. I would assume a fuel pump, but I know that sometimes isn't always the case.
thanks
#7
yep. it sounds like a bad Throttle Postion Sensor(TPS). but you should get a compression check done on both your rotors just in case. cuz when that happened to my motor after like a month it leaned out and blew just driving normal. when a rotary doesn't start up and build pressure it could as simple as the TPS or as bad as worn apex seals. hopefully its jus your sensor. not the seals
#8
Originally Posted by RotaryXpremental7' date='Dec 14 2003, 07:35 AM
yep. it sounds like a bad Throttle Postion Sensor(TPS). but you should get a compression check done on both your rotors just in case. cuz when that happened to my motor after like a month it leaned out and blew just driving normal. when a rotary doesn't start up and build pressure it could as simple as the TPS or as bad as worn apex seals. hopefully its jus your sensor. not the seals
So far you've all been very helpful through my trials and tribulations, I just want to say thanks to everyone, I think I have acrued more help and positive response from this forum than any of the other rotary forums. Thanks
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