Little Update:
04-03-2003, 03:49 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,234
I have a rather nice route for you if you would like. You have to go to Duluth then cut through northern Wisconsin and the UP of Michigan, then a nice 70mph speed limit through the rest of Michigan to Canada, where you'll enjoy a lack of police usually and at least a few people doing 30km/hr over. Its a lot of zig zagging through the great lakes though, it might be faster to take a route south of the lakes.
04-03-2003, 05:01 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pimp'n ain't E-Z! But driving ur FD makes it easier!
Posts: 2,705
Looks good revvin...I'm probably gonna pull my tb & UIM tom to clean them up some more, but i'm leaving my nasty waterpump housing for now since i'll be replacing it in 1K miles 
As for tapping and plugging those lines, I'm still a little nervous just as the one guy said..I don't know if they would hold up to pressure or not...that's why I was leaning towards either connecting the two together, or welding them up. I should also be pulling off my nasty PS bracket and pump and capping the lines...Gonna install my gauges too
Oh...and if you come to a BBQ, let me know and I'll be sure to show up for a lil "run in" of the conversions:
-o-o--|--o-o-
-o-o--|--o-o-
|
As for tapping and plugging those lines, I'm still a little nervous just as the one guy said..I don't know if they would hold up to pressure or not...that's why I was leaning towards either connecting the two together, or welding them up. I should also be pulling off my nasty PS bracket and pump and capping the lines...Gonna install my gauges too
Oh...and if you come to a BBQ, let me know and I'll be sure to show up for a lil "run in" of the conversions:
-o-o--|--o-o-
-o-o--|--o-o-
04-03-2003, 05:42 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
Originally Posted by Rotaryman88' date='Apr 3 2003, 11:01 PM
Looks good revvin...I'm probably gonna pull my tb & UIM tom to clean them up some more, but i'm leaving my nasty waterpump housing for now since i'll be replacing it in 1K miles
As for tapping and plugging those lines, I'm still a little nervous just as the one guy said..I don't know if they would hold up to pressure or not...that's why I was leaning towards either connecting the two together, or welding them up. I should also be pulling off my nasty PS bracket and pump and capping the lines...Gonna install my gauges too
Oh...and if you come to a BBQ, let me know and I'll be sure to show up for a lil "run in" of the conversions:
-o-o--|--o-o-
-o-o--|--o-o-
|
As for tapping and plugging those lines, I'm still a little nervous just as the one guy said..I don't know if they would hold up to pressure or not...that's why I was leaning towards either connecting the two together, or welding them up. I should also be pulling off my nasty PS bracket and pump and capping the lines...Gonna install my gauges too
Oh...and if you come to a BBQ, let me know and I'll be sure to show up for a lil "run in" of the conversions:
-o-o--|--o-o-
-o-o--|--o-o-
I took pictures when I did mine:
pics
this one pretty much sums it up:
You should really use an NPT tap and plug but I just used a metric tap and some threadlock on the hex socket plugs, it's holding up just fine so far...
04-03-2003, 08:04 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,315
So what is the difference between what he did and what pengaru did? All you did pengaru did was pull the little elbow and tap it and capped it. He just tapped and capped the elbow..... Either way.. We will have some more pixs in a hour we got a whole bunch more done, worked for hours..
04-04-2003, 04:43 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
yeah he tapped a nipple, which is a relatively soft metal tube... and threaded a plug into it. you don't see a difference between tapping into the iron housing and putting a plug in it vs the nipple?
it might work just fine, i can't recommend it though. If you look at my pics where I grabbed the nipple with the locking pliers just take a look at how mutilated the nipple is, it didnt take much force at all to do it. Now under pressure, and constant thermal cycling, how much do you think the nipple can take before it might give enough for the plug to leak?
If you tap into the housings theres alot more material around the plug, when you thread the plug in, it's not likely to just make the supporting material around it expand to conform... tapping nipples is a ghetto hack, after tapping and torquing a plug into a nipple it wouldnt surprise me if the nipple had a flared look to it just from the thin wall tube expanding near the plug.
it's not really different from sticking bolts in hoses because you're too lazy to remove the hose and cap it at the source nipple, or better yet remove the nipple and tap + plug the hole, or weld the hole shut.
try this experiment, stick a bolt in a hose to plug it... drive the car for a few weeks (some good thermal cycling), take the bolt out of the hose and observe the hose, is it flared at the end where the bolt was? thats going to happen to the nipple, so given enough time it's likely the plug will leak, because the tube is going to stretch.... meaning, the plug will be loose once that happens.
am i making sense or smoking crack?
it might work just fine, i can't recommend it though. If you look at my pics where I grabbed the nipple with the locking pliers just take a look at how mutilated the nipple is, it didnt take much force at all to do it. Now under pressure, and constant thermal cycling, how much do you think the nipple can take before it might give enough for the plug to leak?
If you tap into the housings theres alot more material around the plug, when you thread the plug in, it's not likely to just make the supporting material around it expand to conform... tapping nipples is a ghetto hack, after tapping and torquing a plug into a nipple it wouldnt surprise me if the nipple had a flared look to it just from the thin wall tube expanding near the plug.
it's not really different from sticking bolts in hoses because you're too lazy to remove the hose and cap it at the source nipple, or better yet remove the nipple and tap + plug the hole, or weld the hole shut.
try this experiment, stick a bolt in a hose to plug it... drive the car for a few weeks (some good thermal cycling), take the bolt out of the hose and observe the hose, is it flared at the end where the bolt was? thats going to happen to the nipple, so given enough time it's likely the plug will leak, because the tube is going to stretch.... meaning, the plug will be loose once that happens.
am i making sense or smoking crack?