I have an 8 dyno'd and ready to go for the 33 Ford project that's on hold, just cant bring myself to put it in a rotary specific car

the torque of the V8 would respond real well to the extra weight of the car

I agree with Mazdaspeed and Rob.. put an LS in it. I jump in my 500+ rwhp vette and drive a 1500 mile round trip every few weeks and all i do to it is change the oil... and rear tires alot. It also gets mid-30's gas milage. Gotta love that 6 speed and the torque to not lug at 1200 rpms on the interstate.

I need to see pictures of that!





I would highly recommend the swap. I swapped an LS6 that was purchased for a different project into my GTU a couple of years ago after its second 13B crapped its pants. The car is sick, ~450rwhp and maintained perfect 50/50 weight balance.



I do love the rotary motors, it was a chocolate in the peanut butter moment for me... We ended up purchasing another 1990 vert for the wife, we're keeping that car a rotary.

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/projects.php



it competed in the hot rod power tour and they said it was over a thousand pounds of torque, but they don't say any numbers on their site. considering the parts they dumped into it though.........

go figure a diesel truck magazine had the best article on it :P



http://www.dieselpowermag.com/featur...max/index.html

here's the dealio...



PP is loud and stinky, it is a simple device and pretty trouble free. mine fired right up after sitting for a month yesterday. its still an N/A after all... since you are starting with an 89 NA motor, cost isn't too bad... i'm in mine about 3k, i got some screaming deals, but its 100% new. since in theory, you could PP the existing engine, cost would be seals gaskets + labor + new efi system/intake



3 rotor. if i was gonna do another, it would be n/a. a stock port stock intake motor will do 235hp. add a custom intake and its more like 250-260. 3 rotor SOUNDS awesome...they add more low end torque too, the stock intake/EFI peaks in the 6200rpm area. these engines are expensive to buy, and since mazda is balancing 3 rotors with 2 counterweights, you either NEED a factory assembly, OR have it really carefully built by someone who KNOWS how to do it. they have this tendancy to break e shafts, thru a combination of bad balance and poor oiling. turbo setup gets complicated and expensive, 500rwhp is easy, more than 600 and it'll start breaking irons.



13b turbo; you can have your cake and eat it too... if you do your homework, like rob you can have something that drives like stock but makes excellent power (350-380), and is just as reliable as the stock t2. IMO if you pick the right parts, don't get greedy with the power, and make sure everything works before you beat on it, it's as reliable as anything else rotary.

That's pretty damn cool. I've been thinking about building a smaller diesel powered racer for some time now, I never considered a 6.6L Cummings motor...

lol they used the 6.6 duramax diesel from gm....

Call me crazy, but after reading this I'm considering starting with the PP option, and putting a turbo engine together on the heels of it as a side project. A 3 or 4 rotor would be cool but I still feel like they haven't got the attention that all the 2 rotor engines have gotten over the years.



I've heard about 3rotors breaking e-shafts for a while now and remember all the problems Brad had with his 10th anny turboed 20b swap, and I can easily do both engines and thier perephials for what it would take to do a 4rotor, besides, I think a tube framed car would be a more fitting application for a 4rotor engine, not a 3800lb convertible with stereo **** and AC.



...and the rotary gods wouldn't shat at me for putting a V8 in an RX modeled car, just can't get passed that...