now let me ask you this....if i decide to go non turbo on an na 6 port with a bridge....i should still run 550 i suppose but can i keep the stock ecu??

"Or the 74-78 13b rotors are 9,2 C/R with 3mm apexs stock. only problem is the lower safe rpm limit."





hey ronin....you mentioned this earlier....what is there rpm limit at anyway?

550's? for some reason for a BP you might need something bigger.

no you shouldnt run a stock ecu with a bridgeport.. I dunno if you can but i know you wont be able to get the power its supposed to be getting with the stock ecu. but yea you should use some s5 rotors.. I had some s5 turbo II rotors.. i just sold them about a month ago though

Someone correct me if i am wrong. I believe its 6500 redline on that *engine*, but that could be for other reasons other than the rotors now that i think of it.



Check with someone in the 1st gen section, their sure to know.Whatever rotors you go with, make sure you go with the counterweights to match.

1. Stock mazda 2 piece, or aftermarket 2 piece. Don't waste your time on 3mm.

2. Whatever rotors you have. Running high compression rotors with a stock ecu is a bad idea. A couple members who have documented their experience on boosted 6 motor n/a motors have blown them running low psi on the stock turbo. If you want to be on the safe side just use s4 or s5 turbo rotors.

3. T4 is perfect, anything is smaller will choke.

4. Depends on what you want and what you are willing to sacrifice. A streetport would work fine. I would not recommend a bridgeport for you.

5. Depends on your turbo/porting/psi. For sure use stock t2 550cc primaries. 720/850 secondaries would be a good start. A walrbo 255lph fuel pump is a good idea also.

6. Don't play around with an n/a ecu, atleast use an t2 efu if not standalone. Piggybacks are just band-aids.

Why would you recommend a BP for this guy? Its nothing for someone with lack of experience/knowledge/money.



You run 460/550 on a to4e 60-1 hyrbid? Is this also on n/a rotors? With a streetport to boot.

The max hp that would support is 220-238rwhp depending on static fp.

Not a smart move using such small injectors, and n/a ecu and a piggyback, even if you are running 3-5psi on that turbo. I just want the other members to know this is not a smart setup. I see you are not finished and plan on an e6x, ect, but you failed to mention this to others in this thread.

God, for a second there I thought I was in teamfc3s....

LMFAO https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

Hey, I got an idea. You want 13-14 1/4 mile times right? Buy a Turbo II, rebuild the engine if you really want to do that. You can do 13s no problems with a stock engine. You'll save yourself money in the long run as opposed to going with a turbo'd N/A. I may not be that experienced with it but it's a waste of time and money IMO.