wuttups guys...i dont really think you guys remember me...i have an 87 gxl which had all sorts of problems...everything from flooding, to car not starting, to no power to coil packs, to doors not opening....



i ended up fixing everything....and the cars running like a dream....reving wonderfull and everything....my baby has 162k miles on it and still kicking hard...thanks to you guys for your help!!



heres my thing though....i'm thinking of getting a rotoray from a junkyard or something so i can start a rebuildin process without touchin my daily driver....i'm planing to replace the seals with some new better ones....planning to get the motor ported...and i'm also planning to turbo the motor with the port....



now i'm planning to get an s4 4 port being that everything will bolt up.....my questions to you guys are..... (keep in mind this will be my 1st rebuild on a rotary)



(can you guys give me your advise on these questions if i was to go turbo and if i wasn't so i can have a better idea)



1. what type of seals should i get??

2. what type of rotors should i run??

3. the manifold i have is for a t-4 housing.....do you guys recommend a smaller turbo?

4. what type of port?? (being that i'm goin turbo)

5. what should i use for fuel??...should i still use the 550's from a t2 or bigger??

6. what should i use for an ecu??

are you using a 4 port to turbo or you gonna stick with the 6 port and turbo it? for apex seals in my 6 port i went with the mazda 2 peice apex seals. those are fine or you can get a set of hurley apex seals. I would use the same rotors... I like a little bit higher compression. I put some pretty huge street ports on mine. I would say bridgeport but if your going to turbo it that can get pretty difficult to tune. I got the two stock NA injectors for primaries and I got 550cc turbo II injectors on the secondaries. you might want to change to a little higher flowing fuel pump too such as a walbro or something. a T4 turbo is perfect for that kinda set up. Im running a 60-1 TO4E. and for the ECU.. it depends on how much boost your wanting to run? I have a piggy back (apex a-fc II) and I wouldnt trust it to go over the psi im pushing right now. if 3-5 psi is all you want to run you can go safely with a piggy back. anything over that I suggest a stand a lone such as a haltech or microtech or somethin along those lines. well tell me how much boost your trying to run and what kind of motor your trying to build.. if its for street, drag or what and ill give you some more info.. I seem to be the only one on here liking a turbo 6 port.

yea i mean i like the concept of running a 6 port turbo becuase of the fact that i can get the little higher compression and the turbo ya know.....that ws actually one of my debates.....i'm planning to use it as my daily driver so i really wasn't planning to boost huge...i was thinking along the lines of 6-8....maybe 10.....your running an n/a turbo??....see i was thinking i would replace the rotors with some s4 t2 rotors, the seals is what i really haven't looked into to much....i wanted to run the port and turbo but how hard is it to tune??...as far as injectors i was thinking all around 550's and the ecu i heard i can just use a stock t2 ecu from a s4 which i heard clips up to the n/a harness....see my goal is baiscally to get around the 13-14 mark not faster...i knew about the fuel pump, and another problem is that money might be an issue so i might have to play around to get results you know...let me know....



p.s how hard is that actual job....i was looking in the haynes manuel and it didn't seem to be too difficult hoping that the motor is not seized or anything like that....let me know

and one more thing....the same questions but what would you recommend if i ddin't go turbo

Id use the stock NA rotors if I were you. if you really wanna go out with the apex seals send out the rotors to get milled out for 3mm and use some 3mm apex seals. they take a little more abuse then the 2mm rotors. i would also stick with the stock NA ecu if you could only choose between the stock one and a turbo II ecu. I never really noticed if it just plugged in but its a lil more work then that. Theres sensors on the turbo II that the ECU needs in order for the car to run properly. finding those sensors sometimes can be a bitch and costly. and youll have to do the wiring for them. just use the NA ecu and throw a piggy back on it. but take your time looking into the piggy back fuel computer. I just rushed into getting the apex afc cause i liked the way it looked. now i cant tune my car properly and it really sucks. id go with somethin like a simple digital or something.. its the same price. Ive heard good things about the greddy e-manage but it was for different cars. I dont really know anyone thats used it for a rx-7 yet. you can possibly look into that too. if you do decide to run anything higher then 8 psi get a stand alone.. but if your using it for everyday.. i think youll be very satisfied with 6-8 psi on a To4E and a street ported motor.. its a huge difference. and also.. if your mechanically inclined you can do the work. you may need to take it to get the intercooler pipes done and such unless you know how to weld. and if you didnt go turbo.. id go with a bridgeport.. or if its a daily driver stick with huge street ports. thatll be fine.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=33441



thats the link to my car. check it out and youll see the parts i used and about the price ive spent

let me ask you...whats the difference in the compression on the n/a rotors as opposed to t2 rotors....does anyone know?

I guess people are succesfully using the RX-8 rotors, or the S5 N/A rotors are good. You could go with a extend street port or a half bridge. Some stronger stationaries, improve internal oiling passages, you can run a higher rpm safely.



S4 N/A 9.4

S5 N/A 9.7



S4 TII 8.5

S5 TII 9.0



RX-8 10.0 (i think)

I have heard of guys puttin S6 rotors in a S5 and S4 block. What would that do. And should this guy do the same?

i'm figuring basic law...the higher the compression rotor the lower the boost right??.....i mean i'm not tryin to build a monster race car here....but like i said i would like to be in the 13-14 mark....with or without turbo....right now i'm weighin my options.......although having a turbo and hearing that turbo spools is like harrmony to my ears..... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

S6 rotors are nearly identical to the S5 TII rotors.

Oh. Ok. Never knew that. Thanks ronin!

so this is what i got.....



a ported 4 port or 6 port motor...

t4 turbo

some type of wastegate

piggy back ecu or should i run stoc t2 ecu

550 injectors....at least

and a better fuel pump....

right??

Boost and high C/R increases your requirement for octane. I say if you can only get a 6 port and you want turbo, get turbo rotors in there.Or the 74-78 13b rotors are 9,2 C/R with 3mm apexs stock. only problem is the lower safe rpm limit.



I personally rather keep N/A's N/A.

ok so you reccomend keeping the stock gxl 6 port rotors becuase that lil bit of c/r difference and portin and turboing of those right??......wat are the apex seal size on those rotores are they 2 or 3??

Is it an S5 (89-91)? All FCs and FDs are 2mm.

s4

Get S5 rotors if you want a powerfull N/A. Higher redline too.

run s5 rotors regardless if i run turbo or not?

N/A = Naturally Asperated. With turbo run low Compression Ratio rotors.

yes run s5 rotors. s5 na rotors if your gonna make it na or s5 turbo rotors if your going turbo.

now let me ask you this....if i decide to go non turbo on an na 6 port with a bridge....i should still run 550 i suppose but can i keep the stock ecu??

"Or the 74-78 13b rotors are 9,2 C/R with 3mm apexs stock. only problem is the lower safe rpm limit."





hey ronin....you mentioned this earlier....what is there rpm limit at anyway?

550's? for some reason for a BP you might need something bigger.

no you shouldnt run a stock ecu with a bridgeport.. I dunno if you can but i know you wont be able to get the power its supposed to be getting with the stock ecu. but yea you should use some s5 rotors.. I had some s5 turbo II rotors.. i just sold them about a month ago though

Someone correct me if i am wrong. I believe its 6500 redline on that *engine*, but that could be for other reasons other than the rotors now that i think of it.



Check with someone in the 1st gen section, their sure to know.Whatever rotors you go with, make sure you go with the counterweights to match.

1. Stock mazda 2 piece, or aftermarket 2 piece. Don't waste your time on 3mm.

2. Whatever rotors you have. Running high compression rotors with a stock ecu is a bad idea. A couple members who have documented their experience on boosted 6 motor n/a motors have blown them running low psi on the stock turbo. If you want to be on the safe side just use s4 or s5 turbo rotors.

3. T4 is perfect, anything is smaller will choke.

4. Depends on what you want and what you are willing to sacrifice. A streetport would work fine. I would not recommend a bridgeport for you.

5. Depends on your turbo/porting/psi. For sure use stock t2 550cc primaries. 720/850 secondaries would be a good start. A walrbo 255lph fuel pump is a good idea also.

6. Don't play around with an n/a ecu, atleast use an t2 efu if not standalone. Piggybacks are just band-aids.

Why would you recommend a BP for this guy? Its nothing for someone with lack of experience/knowledge/money.



You run 460/550 on a to4e 60-1 hyrbid? Is this also on n/a rotors? With a streetport to boot.

The max hp that would support is 220-238rwhp depending on static fp.

Not a smart move using such small injectors, and n/a ecu and a piggyback, even if you are running 3-5psi on that turbo. I just want the other members to know this is not a smart setup. I see you are not finished and plan on an e6x, ect, but you failed to mention this to others in this thread.

God, for a second there I thought I was in teamfc3s....

LMFAO https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

Hey, I got an idea. You want 13-14 1/4 mile times right? Buy a Turbo II, rebuild the engine if you really want to do that. You can do 13s no problems with a stock engine. You'll save yourself money in the long run as opposed to going with a turbo'd N/A. I may not be that experienced with it but it's a waste of time and money IMO.

yeah, i dont see the point in turboing a motor that wasnt meant to be turbo'd orginally, for the price your gonna spend turboing your motor you could buy a jspec tII s5 engine, street port it and rebuild it, turn up the boost and youll be in the 13's without a doubt.