knonfs

[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Apr 18 2005, 12:19 AM']i'm playing with a haltech car, stock radiator, stock fan, shroud everything, temps vary between 190f and about 195f. stock setup works great


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Is that under boost, or idle?

Cheers!

[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Apr 17 2005, 11:19 PM']i'm playing with a haltech car, stock radiator, stock fan, shroud everything, temps vary between 190f and about 195f. stock setup works great


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I like seth's rad, shroud fan setup. I can't find the pic of his engine bay though.

piston_killer

im not rich like all the rest of you i should add

89 Rag

[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Apr 17 2005, 09:19 PM']i'm playing with a haltech car, stock radiator, stock fan, shroud everything, temps vary between 190f and about 195f. stock setup works great


[/quote]



Have you found a point where the temp is too low, making the ecu run the engine in a limp mode, or does it just richen the mixture up to a dangerous level?

DareBee

I grabbed a set of Chrysler 3.3L fans C/W shroud from my local salvage yard (believe it was an 89 Dynasty).

This unit had a pair of 10" fans.

I ditched the stock shroud then had to move my battery box over as well as cut a section out of the side of it as the shroud is just a touch too wide.

I made custom mount brackets and used aluminum plate to fill in the "through air" sections of the Chrysler shroud.

This setup works at least twice as good as the factory fan/shroud setup.

This is all on the factory rad on my S5 and most of the time I don't even need to turn the fans on.

1988RedT2

I'm sure there are a few good reasons to use an e-fan. Space would be one. But I think a lot of people are under the mistaken impression that an e-fan doesn't put any "parasitic drag" on an engine. That would be incorrect.



When that fan is running, it's pulling a significant number of amps, and that in turn is putting a load on your alternator. Guess what's spinning your alternator?



It takes the same amount of work to spin a given fan at a given RPM whether you are using a clutch drive off your water pump shaft or a separate electric motor. There is no free lunch.



And if you use a fan like the Taurus fan, you'd best make sure that your alternator and your wiring can handle the amp draw. To me, it's money and time spent for no gain. The stock setup works fine.

DareBee

As I mentioned, I find cooling to be much quicker and rarely even turn the fans on above 45mph.

For me (an autocrosser) I can almost always do my run with the fans OFF (no drag OR draw); and when I am in a prosolo situation where the runs have little time in between them I can get the heat back out of the engine quicker. These 2 factors are HUGE in my decision to change, I used to boil the coolant frequently at events and since I have changed - not even close.

IMO you can't argue with the results in this application.

ZenRXSeven

At idle with my Taurus fan on high, my temps drop dramatically. My S5 TII, which is completely stock will retain heat in the engine for hours after I shut it off, but my S4 with the fan set-up, after idling for the minute that the turbo timer counts down, it's halfway cooled down already.

piston_killer

my radiator doesnt have a spot for the fan switch, would the stock fan still work?

Cheers!

[quote name='DareBee' date='Apr 27 2005, 06:51 AM']As I mentioned, I find cooling to be much quicker and rarely even turn the fans on above 45mph.

For me (an autocrosser) I can almost always do my run with the fans OFF (no drag OR draw); and when I am in a prosolo situation where the runs have little time in between them I can get the heat back out of the engine quicker. These 2 factors are HUGE in my decision to change, I used to boil the coolant frequently at events and since I have changed - not even close.

IMO you can't argue with the results in this application.


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ooooOOOOoooo venturing outside of racing.kos.net/solo aren't we?