how to rebuild LSD?
#1
Hi all,
Anyone have some advice on rebuilding a clutch pack LSD for an NA?
I have the FSM, but wonder if that's all there is to it........
Also, I'd like to oredr as many needed parts in advance as possible - what are sure to need replacing? friction disks, conical springs, other???
Do I really need a 7" micrometer, or is there a work around?
Thanks for looking!
Anyone have some advice on rebuilding a clutch pack LSD for an NA?
I have the FSM, but wonder if that's all there is to it........
Also, I'd like to oredr as many needed parts in advance as possible - what are sure to need replacing? friction disks, conical springs, other???
Do I really need a 7" micrometer, or is there a work around?
Thanks for looking!
#2
rear ends are easy. torque meter so you can re set pinion pre load. an impact gun helps alot! its real easy really, pull carrier, remove srping or srpings from clutches, replace clutches. re seal.
Hi all,
Anyone have some advice on rebuilding a clutch pack LSD for an NA?
I have the FSM, but wonder if that's all there is to it........
Also, I'd like to oredr as many needed parts in advance as possible - what are sure to need replacing? friction disks, conical springs, other???
Do I really need a 7" micrometer, or is there a work around?
Thanks for looking!
Originally Posted by slvr7' post='766099' date='Oct 3 2005, 07:23 PM
Hi all,
Anyone have some advice on rebuilding a clutch pack LSD for an NA?
I have the FSM, but wonder if that's all there is to it........
Also, I'd like to oredr as many needed parts in advance as possible - what are sure to need replacing? friction disks, conical springs, other???
Do I really need a 7" micrometer, or is there a work around?
Thanks for looking!
#3
you will need access to a press to get out the bearings, they say to change the bearings if you take the rear apart
I did my rear end, the bearings alone at my cost were about $250, that was without touching the LSD unit itself
its not that hard with the press and the proper tools
I did my rear end, the bearings alone at my cost were about $250, that was without touching the LSD unit itself
its not that hard with the press and the proper tools
#4
Try to get the bearings from Canadian Bearings on Matheson in Mississauga. They are a lot cheaper than Mazda bearings at any discount.
I opened up a differential with intentions of rebuilding it but never got the chance to put it back together. The bearings aren't cheap and you need a press to get everything out.
I opened up a differential with intentions of rebuilding it but never got the chance to put it back together. The bearings aren't cheap and you need a press to get everything out.
#5
Originally Posted by Cheers!' post='766182' date='Oct 4 2005, 08:23 AM
Try to get the bearings from Canadian Bearings on Matheson in Mississauga. They are a lot cheaper than Mazda bearings at any discount.
I opened up a differential with intentions of rebuilding it but never got the chance to put it back together. The bearings aren't cheap and you need a press to get everything out.
did you actually get the bearings from them?
stock bearings are NSK and no shop around here could cross reference them with anything else, the bearings arent alot of money, there are just a fair amount of bearings, plus you need the crush spacer, etc...
#6
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='766327' date='Oct 4 2005, 02:40 PM
did you actually get the bearings from them?
stock bearings are NSK and no shop around here could cross reference them with anything else, the bearings arent alot of money, there are just a fair amount of bearings, plus you need the crush spacer, etc...
Guys,
which bearings are you refering to? I didn't think any needed to be replaced. The FSM shows pulling off the side bearings, marking them L & R, then re-installing them. In fact, I don't even see the need to remove them from the carrier halves. I just want to split the carrier, and replace the friction package. Put it back together and check the backlash. I wouldn't disassemble the pinion at all, avoiding the pinion depth set-up ( it should remain unchanged, right?).
#8
In regards to the bearings. Most of the bearings you will find to have an extra 6 characters (or so) on the end of a normal NSK number.
The first batch of numbers will perfectly match an NSK bearing.
On my inspections I have found no obvious differences in the bearings and according to my NSK rep (who is not privy to Mazda code info) explained that they are usually small Mazda spec changes, maybe a lighter (or heavier) press fit, maybe slight mods to the seals, maybe a different lubricant, maybe slightly modified lead chamfers, I think you get my point.
I have used bearings that match (dimensionally as well as the first bit of NSK code) the Mazda bearings in many component rebuilds and have had no trouble with anything.
One that comes to mind specifically was a tranny bearing Mazda wanted almost $200 for and with my OEM discount I paid close to $20 at my PT supplier.
The first batch of numbers will perfectly match an NSK bearing.
On my inspections I have found no obvious differences in the bearings and according to my NSK rep (who is not privy to Mazda code info) explained that they are usually small Mazda spec changes, maybe a lighter (or heavier) press fit, maybe slight mods to the seals, maybe a different lubricant, maybe slightly modified lead chamfers, I think you get my point.
I have used bearings that match (dimensionally as well as the first bit of NSK code) the Mazda bearings in many component rebuilds and have had no trouble with anything.
One that comes to mind specifically was a tranny bearing Mazda wanted almost $200 for and with my OEM discount I paid close to $20 at my PT supplier.
#9
dare bee- I can see a $200 bearing, but if im my memory serves me correctly the most expensive bearing I had to replace in the rear end was like $40 maybe? the rest were pretty cheap
I would still like to have paid half or even less, but I cant be bothered tracking down parts and hoping they would work
a $200 bearing for $20 though you cant go wrong.
I would still like to have paid half or even less, but I cant be bothered tracking down parts and hoping they would work
a $200 bearing for $20 though you cant go wrong.