2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 01:25 AM
  #1  
3ZDUZIT's Avatar
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I have just helped a friend to install a rebuilt rotary. 1987 rx na. First time replacing a rotary (very interesting). I have read several posts on setting the timing. They are somewhat understandable. I also swung by the local Mazda shop to no avail. Does anyone have any pix of the steps to install the cas and where the (crankshaft), I realize that is not the correct name, should be positioned. I see the two marks on the pulley. I am guessing they should line up with the small piece of wire sticking out of the front timing cover. When I have the lid off of the distributor (cas) how should the shaft be positioned in relation to the guts, for lack of a better word. Any pix would be greatly appreciated. We tried to start it tonight and she would not start. Very disconcerting after three weeks of removal and installation. Keep in mind I drive a piston driven vehicle. So please be kind. I am starting to take a liking to the rotary, if only I could get this one started after installing the rebuild. I am now looking for a second generation for myself. Turbo preferably to join my 90 Nissan 300tt. Any suggestions for that as well. Thanks again.
Old Sep 1, 2005 | 08:47 AM
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timmin set up is easyer then ya think. all you need to do is set the e-shaft(crankshaft) to the leading spark mark on the stock pully, it should be red, however if using a aftermarket underdrive pully set the e-shaft to 5deg then set the cas with the ingraved dot on the gear to the mark on the body its a almost arrow lookin thing. once that you have the 2 marks aligned just drop the cas straight in and set it to the center of your adjustment.



to make any true timming adjustments after that you will need to ground out the green plugs behnd the left headlamp though.
Old Sep 1, 2005 | 07:07 PM
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[quote name='fc3sboy1' date='Sep 1 2005, 06:47 AM']timmin set up is easyer then ya think. all you need to do is set the e-shaft(crankshaft) to the leading spark mark on the stock pully, it should be red, however if using a aftermarket underdrive pully set the e-shaft to 5deg then set the cas with the ingraved dot on the gear to the mark on the body its a almost arrow lookin thing. once that you have the 2 marks aligned just drop the cas straight in and set it to the center of your adjustment.



to make any true timming adjustments after that you will need to ground out the green plugs behnd the left headlamp though.

[snapback]754144[/snapback]

[/quote]



Sounds easy enough. I will give it a try. Thanks
Old Sep 1, 2005 | 09:33 PM
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The leading mark on the main pulley is yellow, or the right side notch (facing toward the rear of car) align that mark with the pin.



On the CAS, align the dot (not the roll pin!) on the gear with the pointer at the base and carefully install. To keep the shaft from turning while installing I remove the black cover and hold it with my thumb.
Old Sep 2, 2005 | 08:10 PM
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[quote name='RONIN FC' date='Sep 1 2005, 07:33 PM']The leading mark on the main pulley is yellow, or the right side notch (facing toward the rear of car) align that mark with the pin.



On the CAS, align the dot (not the roll pin!) on the gear with the pointer at the base and carefully install. To keep the shaft from turning while installing I remove the black cover and hold it with my thumb.

[snapback]754375[/snapback]

[/quote]



Can I ask a favor? Do you know where I can see a picture of where the pin should be pointing? I see the engraved dot on the spinning unit. But I am not exactly sure which way it should be pointing. I thought that it was supposed to line up with the black unit at about the 9:00 position on the CAS. It has a silver piece that sticks out and I was aligning that with the dot.
Old Sep 3, 2005 | 10:01 PM
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[quote name='3ZDUZIT' date='Sep 2 2005, 08:10 PM']Can I ask a favor? Do you know where I can see a picture of where the pin should be pointing? I see the engraved dot on the spinning unit. But I am not exactly sure which way it should be pointing. I thought that it was supposed to line up with the black unit at about the 9:00 position on the CAS. It has a silver piece that sticks out and I was aligning that with the dot.

[snapback]754702[/snapback]

[/quote]

Align the engraved dot on the gear with the pointer, "silver piece that sticks out". Then install.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 12:19 AM
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[quote name='RONIN FC' date='Sep 3 2005, 09:01 PM']Align the engraved dot on the gear with the pointer, "silver piece that sticks out". Then install.

[snapback]754978[/snapback]

[/quote]



RONIN FC is right listen to him. The yellow mark is –5ATDC and the red is –20ATDC. The Yellow is leading timing and the red is trailing. Align the yellow mark with the guide pin on the front cover as stated. Pull the cap off the CAS and watch the gear it will turn when installing it so it may take a few times to stab it where you still have adjustment. After this you must use a battery operated and not AC powered light as well if you have a tunable light such as one that gives you your degrees you must use a 2 stroke timing light or your reading will be 180o off. If you have trouble pulling a signal from the wire reveres the direction of the pickup unit this was posted in a factory TSB around 1987. Always time from the L1 plug and you can verify on the T1 plug along red line if you wish.



fc3sboy1 - what orifice did you pull that info from?
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 11:35 AM
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[quote name='iceblue' date='Sep 4 2005, 12:19 AM']you must use a 2 stroke timing light or your reading will be 180o off.

[snapback]755004[/snapback]

[/quote]

I use a regular Actron timing light. Never had any problems.

I think you would only run into problems if you were trying to advance or retard with a 4 stroke light.
Old Sep 13, 2005 | 06:17 PM
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fc3sboy1 - what orifice did you pull that info from?



the last 5 motors i got from mazda reman facility for home use and work use have had the timming marks painted just the oposite of what is proper, meaning the leading is red and trailing is yellow, the motors where , 2 12as , 1 s4 and 1 s5 and 1 s5 t2. this is the reason i stated that fact, hell even my jdm 13bre was that way as it too was a reman.



what should have said is the first timming mark or at 5deg that would have been better.
Old Sep 13, 2005 | 06:20 PM
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and i have never had any problem with using a normal timming light when checkin timming on a rotary motor ,
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