If you have one apex seal completely gone your compression will be 90-0-0. there are three faces on the rotors, so if one seal is gone it affects two faces, and both of those will lose compression. a corner seal could be gone and that will usually give you 30-30-90 compression and if the apex seal is cracked it will give you 60-60-90. if there is a scar on the rotor housing the compression will be all even, but low 60-60-60. if a side seal is gone it will give you 30-90-90. so, since your compression does have some compression, that doesn't mean that it's the apex seals, it could be two side seals. hope this helps out a little.

yes it was thanks.



about adjusting idle though....i jump the initial set...(2 prong guy by leading coil, green) i put it in, start car, then adjust idle...after that can i remove it?? and i adjust screw on top of t body right? in the middle...

Yep. The set coupler bypasses the computer so you can make changes to the car. When you are all done changing the idle turn the car off and remove the jumper on the set coupler. I don't know if it made a difference or not but I also cleared the codes in the computer everytime I adjusted the idle, tps or timing. The screw right on top of the TB is the idle speed screw.

glad it worked out

thanks guys....not getting any responses on other forums....i was also told by the guy from rotary ressurection (hyptz7, sp) that i should adjust the screw on the top righ corner of the TB, it has JB weld on it from the factor, u take that nut off and turn the screw to get idle up (he said it was setting the "hard idle" i believe), does that sound right. i have to wait till someone can help me pull start it because it wont start when its cold...thinking i have a huge vacc. leak or leaky prim. injector(s)..i know there supposed to be hard to start, but ive unflooded several times and tried starting fluid.

That supposedly adjusts the idle a/f ratio, I think it just offsets the reading from the AFM... It can be a pain to get right.