Ok.....yes I've tried to search. But I cannot get a solid description of how to get my idle up to 1500. The motor I have installed is from a junkyard, somehwere between 70-100k miles...it has been sitting, therefore I'm sure the seals are still trying to free up from being stuck and re-seat..it will not hold a idle...im barely holding gas at 1k but if i let off it will go to 500 and die. I've read about adjusting the screw on top of the throttle body..in the middle....that does nothing, just will bring idle down not up...the screw is all the way open...ive read to jumper a wire on ecu harness (2 prong) on left side obiously by firewall. NOTHING....(unless its the wrong wire)...i also read to play with the screw on top corner (right if on passenger side fender) and take the rubber stuff (jb weld?) off and play with it...



can somebody please..give me the correct way with pictures (if possible) with a detailed explanation of how to get my idle at liike 1000 to 1500RPM....ive read and it makes sense that during my "break in", letting everything re-seat...that it wont hold idle and 1k-1500 is a good idle until i build compression all that, etc. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!.......



also....MMO sat in there for 1 1/2 weeks...and i started it with atf and oil...so that has been done as far as re-gaining comp., etc.

I'd love to hear how to make my car idle to. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png Same prob, and my tps is fine.... As Vosko said to me a long time ago, could be a gasket on the intake (the lower one) Ive been driving my car around with no idle for 2 years now, or when its together and working. If all fails Rocket219 you can stay on the gas all the time :bigthumg:

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png lol...id prefer not to...hehe..ill try spraing starting fluid around intake gasket but i dont think that its...its brand new! Im gonna retighted it now actually that you said that....drivin around on the gas sounds a little bit scary....get confused and hit wrong pedal or something...hehe..errrrrr...crash.

I became pretty good at it to https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

hmmm...well maybe i will attempt to drive to school tommorow..only things....collant light keeps coming on

very damn irritation (resiovor is topped off too, still...bzzzzzzzzz, it will off and come back on when i drive though..hmm)...and i think my oil pan is leaking (even though i replaced gasket), maybe they need retighting (oil leak is pretty big though).....bastards, and ofcrouse that it wont Fing idle.

check your oil cooler lines for leak?

yup...it was acutally p/s fluid i think...b/c i was turning it alot while getting it setup to pull start...and i think the resevoir leaked it out...and it looked bacl b/c of getting rolling over grime....collant is from upper hose...re-used em b/c of lack of $$..will replace later....looks like i might have a small oil leak though...hard to trace em. where are the damn idle gurus...lol

well step one is to make sure you have no vacuum leaks, this could be a bad intake gasket, missing or misrouted vacuum line, loose clamp on the afm etc

step 2 is to check the tps: they are all bad

step 3 is to make sure that the bac valve works

after that the screw on the tbody should be able to get you from 5-600rpms to 1200



the add coolant light means you have to open the radiator cap while the car is cold and add more water.



mike

ok...i figured out about jumping the 2 pin connector...then you can adjust idle on top of trottle body. But i have another issie....it will not start when i let it cool down....its hard to start when warm...but it will start...EGI fuse wont help either...it tires but will not.....will a fuel cut swtich make this any easier b/c i can crank then hit switch while cranking..i know there hard to start when breaking in b/c of low comp...but i don think pull starting every time is quite right.



also...rear rotor when tested before it started..had 30-30-60...now given it was cold....sure apex seals werent sealing all the way....ive been told my gurus that it will gain comp after its been ran and started the break in...i agree..any other input?

When adjusting the idle, timing, tps or whatever on the engine you will want to jump the intitial set coupler with a paper clip or something. I would check for vacuum leaks too. You might want to check the timing, although you really can't if the car will not idle. Sounds like the engine might be a little tired.

it has a 90 day warranty..i want to get it running...and run it for like a week then to comp test...if its still low ill go back to the place i bought it. comp test had 90-90-90 on fron rotor...and 30-30-60 on rear...i hoping that the rear rotor might just have had stuck apex seals during test and they need to reseat....we'll see.

my car had the same problem. i bought a new tps and it still didnt work. u have to adjust the screw very carfully, it is very sensitive thats prolly y u see ur idle still going down. that is if u dont have a vacuum leak. also, i drove my car around like that. i would have to get in nuetral and start braking while pushing on the gas a little to keep the car alive, cause if it died I would have to pull the fuse and try and crank until it started, push start the car or wait about an hour till the car started. u said the the egi trick didnt work, so i would say that the putting in switch prolly wouldnt work either cause it does the same thing as pulling the fuse. check ur injectors cause they might be leaking really bad. tey cleaning em first. let me know if i was any help

yeah...injectors are a suspect to me as well...on my old engine (same injectors though), the car was hard to start after being warmed up...and they 15 mins later going to start again. I'm going to push start it tommorow and check for vacc. leaks...



the reason i thought a cut switch my work is can you can crank to unflood, then while cranking you can flip switch..i was told that this will make it start easier as well... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif



im hoping the motor will build compression back up on the rear rotor...i''m thinking that it will...it seems to have gotten stronger as its been driven, i pulled my plugs and egi fuse and cranked it to unflood it that way...and the swooshes seem to have even'd out and gotten alot louder :bigok: . so im hoping that they just need to reseat. I'm going to follow the normal (new engine) break in procedure just to be safe though.



thanks for the help though...as much input and ideas as possible is always better.

was the engine rebuilt, cause if it wasnt maybe a rebuild is in need. thats a lot of miles on thta engine already. BTW if u keep doing the fuse trick, u'll need a rebuilt or new starter soon. and the switch will be connected to that fuse so it does the same thing by getting rid of excess gas, it s just a lot better to have when its raining out side and u dont wanna pop up the hood and get wet :bigok: let me kow how it goes

there are some popular methods for cleaning out the carbon from the motor, atkins recommends amsoil power foam for fixing carbon locked motors, you might want to try it:

atkins faq #9



it might help you with achieving your goal of higher compression.



as for the idle, i dunno, theres alot of things that can make it happen... bacv not functioning, vacuum leak, tps, afm... or just things not getting adjusted properly, did you calibrate the TPS?

Sorry to say this man, but if your rear rotor is pushing 30-30-60, that means you have one bad apex seal. even when it's cold, there not supposed to jump at that degree. if it was like 65-70-75 it would be alright. take it to the place and tell them you want it fixed. just because you can drive it, doesn't really mean anything, i've driven them with only 1 working rotor (kind of hard, you have to keep it about 3000rpms at all time). and your starter sounds like it's gone also, go get a 200Amp batter booster if you can and see if it starts, if it does, the brushes on the starter are fried.

my starter is working fine right now..but ive been cranking the piss out of it...so im sure it will become very worn quickly....the compression on my rear rotor does scare me...but its more sounding like i have one carbon locked seal than anything...and mabe the another partiallly stuck...I've blow a engine before..lost the rear rotor on my last...and one a apex seals goes completely, you get 0 compression right? My rear rotor had 50-50-0...my comp test might not have been completely perfect on the rear rotor b/c the guage jumps up and down so damn quick. Ill look at the atkins trick for fixing carbon lock..and will try to get my idle set.



Theres still a good chance this motor is fucked...but i want to at least see if MAYBE it can revive it self (thinking that it wont though).

maybe some gurus or anyone with engine compression build experience...could elborate for me....Im positive that i didnt "loose" a apex seal..i just think that the rear rotor is not seating right...hopefully not from wear, but from just being maybe a little stuck..or in need of being reseated..what im thinking is that after i get it idiling correctly and fix my vacc. leak, leaky injectors, whatever is causing it not to be able to start after cooling down....i will drive it for like a couple weeks and then maybe compression will regain..



the warranty on the motor says good running condidition...so if comp is still low on the rear rotor after say a week..ill take it back

u should try and hook up with some of our washington members

I met Steven (Matlock) from RX-7 club..he lives damn close to me. Good friend of mine now, helped me alot with taking engine out and getting her back in. Dont know of any other 7 wrenchers around? But im always down for another head in there to troubleshoot and put in the .02 cents

If you have one apex seal completely gone your compression will be 90-0-0. there are three faces on the rotors, so if one seal is gone it affects two faces, and both of those will lose compression. a corner seal could be gone and that will usually give you 30-30-90 compression and if the apex seal is cracked it will give you 60-60-90. if there is a scar on the rotor housing the compression will be all even, but low 60-60-60. if a side seal is gone it will give you 30-90-90. so, since your compression does have some compression, that doesn't mean that it's the apex seals, it could be two side seals. hope this helps out a little.

yes it was thanks.



about adjusting idle though....i jump the initial set...(2 prong guy by leading coil, green) i put it in, start car, then adjust idle...after that can i remove it?? and i adjust screw on top of t body right? in the middle...

Yep. The set coupler bypasses the computer so you can make changes to the car. When you are all done changing the idle turn the car off and remove the jumper on the set coupler. I don't know if it made a difference or not but I also cleared the codes in the computer everytime I adjusted the idle, tps or timing. The screw right on top of the TB is the idle speed screw.

glad it worked out

thanks guys....not getting any responses on other forums....i was also told by the guy from rotary ressurection (hyptz7, sp) that i should adjust the screw on the top righ corner of the TB, it has JB weld on it from the factor, u take that nut off and turn the screw to get idle up (he said it was setting the "hard idle" i believe), does that sound right. i have to wait till someone can help me pull start it because it wont start when its cold...thinking i have a huge vacc. leak or leaky prim. injector(s)..i know there supposed to be hard to start, but ive unflooded several times and tried starting fluid.

That supposedly adjusts the idle a/f ratio, I think it just offsets the reading from the AFM... It can be a pain to get right.