Help With New Engine Idle
12-03-2002, 07:21 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 378
Ok.....yes I've tried to search. But I cannot get a solid description of how to get my idle up to 1500. The motor I have installed is from a junkyard, somehwere between 70-100k miles...it has been sitting, therefore I'm sure the seals are still trying to free up from being stuck and re-seat..it will not hold a idle...im barely holding gas at 1k but if i let off it will go to 500 and die. I've read about adjusting the screw on top of the throttle body..in the middle....that does nothing, just will bring idle down not up...the screw is all the way open...ive read to jumper a wire on ecu harness (2 prong) on left side obiously by firewall. NOTHING....(unless its the wrong wire)...i also read to play with the screw on top corner (right if on passenger side fender) and take the rubber stuff (jb weld?) off and play with it...
can somebody please..give me the correct way with pictures (if possible) with a detailed explanation of how to get my idle at liike 1000 to 1500RPM....ive read and it makes sense that during my "break in", letting everything re-seat...that it wont hold idle and 1k-1500 is a good idle until i build compression all that, etc. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!.......
also....MMO sat in there for 1 1/2 weeks...and i started it with atf and oil...so that has been done as far as re-gaining comp., etc.
can somebody please..give me the correct way with pictures (if possible) with a detailed explanation of how to get my idle at liike 1000 to 1500RPM....ive read and it makes sense that during my "break in", letting everything re-seat...that it wont hold idle and 1k-1500 is a good idle until i build compression all that, etc. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!.......
also....MMO sat in there for 1 1/2 weeks...and i started it with atf and oil...so that has been done as far as re-gaining comp., etc.
12-03-2002, 07:33 PM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 208
I'd love to hear how to make my car idle to. 
Same prob, and my tps is fine.... As Vosko said to me a long time ago, could be a gasket on the intake (the lower one) Ive been driving my car around with no idle for 2 years now, or when its together and working. If all fails Rocket219 you can stay on the gas all the time :bigthumg:
12-03-2002, 07:44 PM
#3
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12-03-2002, 08:02 PM
#5
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hmmm...well maybe i will attempt to drive to school tommorow..only things....collant light keeps coming on
very damn irritation (resiovor is topped off too, still...bzzzzzzzzz, it will off and come back on when i drive though..hmm)...and i think my oil pan is leaking (even though i replaced gasket), maybe they need retighting (oil leak is pretty big though).....bastards, and ofcrouse that it wont Fing idle.
very damn irritation (resiovor is topped off too, still...bzzzzzzzzz, it will off and come back on when i drive though..hmm)...and i think my oil pan is leaking (even though i replaced gasket), maybe they need retighting (oil leak is pretty big though).....bastards, and ofcrouse that it wont Fing idle.
12-03-2002, 08:36 PM
#7
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yup...it was acutally p/s fluid i think...b/c i was turning it alot while getting it setup to pull start...and i think the resevoir leaked it out...and it looked bacl b/c of getting rolling over grime....collant is from upper hose...re-used em b/c of lack of $$..will replace later....looks like i might have a small oil leak though...hard to trace em. where are the damn idle gurus...lol
12-03-2002, 08:45 PM
#8
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
well step one is to make sure you have no vacuum leaks, this could be a bad intake gasket, missing or misrouted vacuum line, loose clamp on the afm etc
step 2 is to check the tps: they are all bad
step 3 is to make sure that the bac valve works
after that the screw on the tbody should be able to get you from 5-600rpms to 1200
the add coolant light means you have to open the radiator cap while the car is cold and add more water.
mike
step 2 is to check the tps: they are all bad
step 3 is to make sure that the bac valve works
after that the screw on the tbody should be able to get you from 5-600rpms to 1200
the add coolant light means you have to open the radiator cap while the car is cold and add more water.
mike
12-03-2002, 09:12 PM
#9
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ok...i figured out about jumping the 2 pin connector...then you can adjust idle on top of trottle body. But i have another issie....it will not start when i let it cool down....its hard to start when warm...but it will start...EGI fuse wont help either...it tires but will not.....will a fuel cut swtich make this any easier b/c i can crank then hit switch while cranking..i know there hard to start when breaking in b/c of low comp...but i don think pull starting every time is quite right.
also...rear rotor when tested before it started..had 30-30-60...now given it was cold....sure apex seals werent sealing all the way....ive been told my gurus that it will gain comp after its been ran and started the break in...i agree..any other input?
also...rear rotor when tested before it started..had 30-30-60...now given it was cold....sure apex seals werent sealing all the way....ive been told my gurus that it will gain comp after its been ran and started the break in...i agree..any other input?
12-03-2002, 10:24 PM
#10
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Location: Marysville WA.
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When adjusting the idle, timing, tps or whatever on the engine you will want to jump the intitial set coupler with a paper clip or something. I would check for vacuum leaks too. You might want to check the timing, although you really can't if the car will not idle. Sounds like the engine might be a little tired.