it has a 90 day warranty..i want to get it running...and run it for like a week then to comp test...if its still low ill go back to the place i bought it. comp test had 90-90-90 on fron rotor...and 30-30-60 on rear...i hoping that the rear rotor might just have had stuck apex seals during test and they need to reseat....we'll see.

 

my car had the same problem. i bought a new tps and it still didnt work. u have to adjust the screw very carfully, it is very sensitive thats prolly y u see ur idle still going down. that is if u dont have a vacuum leak. also, i drove my car around like that. i would have to get in nuetral and start braking while pushing on the gas a little to keep the car alive, cause if it died I would have to pull the fuse and try and crank until it started, push start the car or wait about an hour till the car started. u said the the egi trick didnt work, so i would say that the putting in switch prolly wouldnt work either cause it does the same thing as pulling the fuse. check ur injectors cause they might be leaking really bad. tey cleaning em first. let me know if i was any help

 

yeah...injectors are a suspect to me as well...on my old engine (same injectors though), the car was hard to start after being warmed up...and they 15 mins later going to start again. I'm going to push start it tommorow and check for vacc. leaks...



the reason i thought a cut switch my work is can you can crank to unflood, then while cranking you can flip switch..i was told that this will make it start easier as well...



im hoping the motor will build compression back up on the rear rotor...i''m thinking that it will...it seems to have gotten stronger as its been driven, i pulled my plugs and egi fuse and cranked it to unflood it that way...and the swooshes seem to have even'd out and gotten alot louder :bigok: . so im hoping that they just need to reseat. I'm going to follow the normal (new engine) break in procedure just to be safe though.



thanks for the help though...as much input and ideas as possible is always better.

 

was the engine rebuilt, cause if it wasnt maybe a rebuild is in need. thats a lot of miles on thta engine already. BTW if u keep doing the fuse trick, u'll need a rebuilt or new starter soon. and the switch will be connected to that fuse so it does the same thing by getting rid of excess gas, it s just a lot better to have when its raining out side and u dont wanna pop up the hood and get wet :bigok: let me kow how it goes

 

there are some popular methods for cleaning out the carbon from the motor, atkins recommends amsoil power foam for fixing carbon locked motors, you might want to try it:

atkins faq #9



it might help you with achieving your goal of higher compression.



as for the idle, i dunno, theres alot of things that can make it happen... bacv not functioning, vacuum leak, tps, afm... or just things not getting adjusted properly, did you calibrate the TPS?

 

Sorry to say this man, but if your rear rotor is pushing 30-30-60, that means you have one bad apex seal. even when it's cold, there not supposed to jump at that degree. if it was like 65-70-75 it would be alright. take it to the place and tell them you want it fixed. just because you can drive it, doesn't really mean anything, i've driven them with only 1 working rotor (kind of hard, you have to keep it about 3000rpms at all time). and your starter sounds like it's gone also, go get a 200Amp batter booster if you can and see if it starts, if it does, the brushes on the starter are fried.

 

my starter is working fine right now..but ive been cranking the **** out of it...so im sure it will become very worn quickly....the compression on my rear rotor does scare me...but its more sounding like i have one carbon locked seal than anything...and mabe the another partiallly stuck...I've blow a engine before..lost the rear rotor on my last...and one a apex seals goes completely, you get 0 compression right? My rear rotor had 50-50-0...my comp test might not have been completely perfect on the rear rotor b/c the guage jumps up and down so damn quick. Ill look at the atkins trick for fixing carbon lock..and will try to get my idle set.



Theres still a good chance this motor is fucked...but i want to at least see if MAYBE it can revive it self (thinking that it wont though).

 

maybe some gurus or anyone with engine compression build experience...could elborate for me....Im positive that i didnt "loose" a apex seal..i just think that the rear rotor is not seating right...hopefully not from wear, but from just being maybe a little stuck..or in need of being reseated..what im thinking is that after i get it idiling correctly and fix my vacc. leak, leaky injectors, whatever is causing it not to be able to start after cooling down....i will drive it for like a couple weeks and then maybe compression will regain..



the warranty on the motor says good running condidition...so if comp is still low on the rear rotor after say a week..ill take it back

 

u should try and hook up with some of our washington members

 

I met Steven (Matlock) from RX-7 club..he lives damn close to me. Good friend of mine now, helped me alot with taking engine out and getting her back in. Dont know of any other 7 wrenchers around? But im always down for another head in there to troubleshoot and put in the .02 cents