DeadLight

so I thought my transmission was to blame (automatic) so I looked up what problems I was having in the transmission section of the FSM (I thought it was the transmission, but I'm not sure now) and it said to check the vacuum modulator. I bought a new one because there was transmission fluid in the line connected to it. (I was told it should not) But, it did not fix the problem at all. I tried unhooking my subwoffers amp from the battery just to rule out any electrical issue that it may have caused, but nothing changed.



It drives fine for a short time then it wont run for crap after (runs ruff and wants to die and will not pick up seed very well.) let it sit over night and it will run fine again for a min or two then it wont run again.... I thought it was the tranny, but why would it work at all if it was blown...and why work fine then just stop working?



would it possibly do this if it dropped a rotor mid driving? like maybe I'm losing spark to a rotor?could it be something else? what should I be looking at?



also when it starts to run bad it almost acts like it's getting too much fuel and I have to take it easy on the gas pedal and let it work its way up, and it seems to only run bad when it heats up.

it's an '87 base with auto tranny, all fluids are good, new NGK spark plugs.

any help would be great!

Baldy

Have you replaced your fuel filter?

DeadLight

I have not...I will buy a new one when I get paid. could it really be something as simple as that?

Baldy

I haven't experienced it myself, but I've been told crud can settle, then once it's stirred up it will clog the filter. Wait a while for it to settle, it'll drive again, etc.

Ryan123

if you think its the filter:

- check the fuel tank if theres is crud in the tank then its the filter, if theres crud, scrape it out and clean it, then buy some tank sealer at auto zone its a two step process and replace the fuel filter. if there is no crud them your filter is fine.



It sounds like your TPS (throttle position Sonsor)



-i pefer the volt meter check, the cheap led methoid only gives a round about adjustment, the volt meter is accurate

- un plug the connector

- set the tps to 1k ohmes via the adjustment scew

- now hold the throttle and move the plunger in and out and there should be a clean sweep from 0k-6k ohmes





to set it:



Make sure the car is fully warmed up ( 45 min hoighway driving) or find the fast idle warm up cam and push it it .

set the throttle to 1k ohmes.

hold off the fast idle cam, open and close the throttle a few times to see if the 1k ohmes is hit everytime

The warmer the car the more accurate the tests will be.

Rx-J

hey guy im new to this furom thing but i need help with my 88 gxl.. ok the problem started when my battery positvie post hit my ps pump pulley my car shut off completly so i found out it broke a ground i fix the grown and then it was running with a ugly back fire and finaly it stop running now i can get it started what could be wrong ?? pls email me rxj87@yahoo.com